8v flywheel replacement!

[chrismc]

Picked up my lightened flywheel when I dropped the head in for its big valves[:P]& am planning to fit it along with the 16v pressure plate whilst the head is still off.


Can anyone give me a brief outline on how to do it/what needs to be removed etc as ive never dabbled in clutches/gearboxes before?[:s]

[jc..]

As far as I remember from previous, (before all that useful reference material was needlessly thrown away!!) The 16v plate is the same part number!

I just replaced my clutch for the first time and it is fairly straight forward. You will need a 12 point socket set to remove the flywheel/clutch housing bolts.

Remove them by cracking them all and then working your way round undoing them a little at a time, applying the same philosophy you do to doing up wheel nuts (opposites)

I bought a clutch plate alignment tool which is useless and you are welcome to it (£11 from machine mart) You could do the job with a bit of dowel.

The fly wheel is bolted to the cluth plate which in turn is bolted to the crank unlike a lot of motors which are the other way round.

You will remove the clutch plate, remove the old clutch pressure plate, slip in new pressure plate and bolt new lightened sexy flywheel over the top making sure the pressure plate is central. (that is where my lying tool was meant to come in)

Degrease everything with a good quality cleaner!

[harry_the_cake]

Do you mean just the clutch parts or a how to for the whole gearbox removal?

Pressure plate to flywheel bolts are 9mm star socket.

Flywheel to crank bolts need to be replaced as they are stretch bolts. You also need to use some thread lock compound on the new bolts. They are highly torqued so you'll need to hold the engine from turning. There are all sorts of method for this from a piece of strapping metal bolted to the flywheel to chucking a jack under the flywheel. I'll leave that up to you unless you get stuck.

Remember to grease the splines of the friction disc.

[veedubnutz]

Where did you get your flywheel from? I want a lightened one for the tubby when its rebuilt.

[evozippy]

Flywheel bolts arn't stretch bolts just high tensile ones with thread lock on. But it is recommended to use new ones, they come with thread lock on.

[chrismc]

Where did you get your flywheel from? I want a lightened one for the tubby when its rebuilt.

From Autotechnik in Southampton!!

Its very mildly lightened AFAIK (4KGs or something) & has been balanced to 8000RPM...

More than enough for my humble 8v [:P]

[espen w]

Picked up my lightened flywheel when I dropped the head in for its big valves[:P]& am planning to fit it along with the 16v pressure plate whilst the head is still off.


Forget about the "16v" pressure plate unless your "8v" plate is shot. The 16v and 8v plate is the same one, with the same Sachs part#: 3000-251-004
VW puts different VAG part#'s on them so they can charge more for a 16v unit.

[RichyLad]

Does all this mean that you can change the clutch plate without removing the gearbox/engine unit from the bay? I'd got it into my head that it had to come out. This would be a lot easier if it doesn't and I think my Jetta clutch is starting to go...

[harry_the_cake]

Does all this mean that you can change the clutch plate without removing the gearbox/engine unit from the bay? I'd got it into my head that it had to come out. This would be a lot easier if it doesn't and I think my Jetta clutch is starting to go...

Gearbox has to come out. I just wondered if he had it out already.

The only cars I've worked on that you didn't need to remove the box were some old vauxhalls.

[evozippy]

Surely the 16v pressure plate has a greater clamping pressure over the 8v one.

[chrismc]

Do you mean just the clutch parts or a how to for the whole gearbox removal?


Remember to grease the splines of the friction disc.

The whole job Harry including the clutch [:^(]

What grease do I need for the splines mate??

[golf_dav]

how much was the flywheel chris?

[harry_the_cake]

Do you mean just the clutch parts or a how to for the whole gearbox removal?


Remember to grease the splines of the friction disc.

The whole job Harry including the clutch [:^(]

What grease do I need for the splines mate??

AAAARG!! this is so annoying. I did a complete write up on this one on the old forum. I haven't got time at the mo to write another one.

Basically if you follow the Haynes (old manual) guide you should be fine for getting the box out.

I suggest removing the drive shafts completely as they get in the way a bit. You don't have to, but its better. Also with the drive shafts removed you can get to the silly little plate at the back of the box above the drivers side inner CV. You'll know what I mean when you get there.

Remove all the mounts except for the rear block one (you don't have to loosen this one if you don't want to).

When everything is undone, pull the box away from the engine a bit and then twist it anti-clockwise a fair bit. This makes it easier for the diff to clear the subframe.

The grease is a special type that looks like treacle it sticks nicely to the splines, but you can use CV joint grease as well. Usually you get a small sachet of the stuff in a clutch kit along with new bolts (which as someone rightly said already come with the thread-lock on them).

Sorry that's nowhere near as good as me other write up. If you get any probs, then email the group and we'll sort ya out. [:Y:]
Edited by: harry_the_cake

[espen w]

Surely the 16v pressure plate has a greater clamping pressure over the 8v one.

If you want to believe that, I've got some swampland in Arizona for sale. Cheap.
Sachs used the same pressure plate for all the 1.8 engines, ranging from 55bhp to 139bhp. Part # is 3000-251-004
Here is the link to the Sachs site. Search on VW.
http://webcat.sachs.de/index.asp?SPR=4
Edited by: espen w

[chrismc]

Cheers Harry!!

Im sure il be ok. [;)]

I think il change the pressure plate now ive got it & see if it makes any difference!!

[madmk4]

I always thought that the imbalance of the flywheel, or any other bit of turning mass stayed the same, so you could actually balance it at 1000rpm and it'd still be in balance at 10,000rp, just like dave walker says in the new CCC..

So how do auto tecknick (Spelling) do it ?

[Guests]

When I had my flywheel done they only balanced it up to around 1000rpm. And it'll be good upto around 8000 from what they said.
Technically the machine they used for mine is basically the same as a wheel balancing machine. They spin it up at low revs to check for errors, drill the flywheel where required(machine tells you where) and put it back on and spin it up again. Continue this 'til its right.

[nickvw]

Chris, I am back next week, i can give you a hand if you need it. Thats if you haven't started it already. Can't be any different than the barge was.

I could do with getting my hands dirty again, especially after the last 3 weeks i have had [:)]

[espen w]

I think il change the pressure plate now ive got it & see if it makes any difference!!

The springs of any pressure plate will lose tension over time, so fitting a new one will provide more clamping pressure.

[chrismc]

Cheers Nick....picking the head up on Tuesday so need to crack on with it really!!

[:s]

[Southy_GTI]

Nice one chris - moving things along at pace!

reckon it will be in one piece for the wilts meet?

cant wait to see how it gos after the latest tweaks[:o]

[chrismc]

Nice one chris - moving things along at pace!

reckon it will be in one piece for the wilts meet?

cant wait to see how it gos after the latest tweaks[:o]

Hope so Phil....

Should be fun I reckon [}:)] [:Y:]

[zoid]

Hey chrismc whats the address for Autotechnik in Southampton, I'm based in Bournemouth and wouldn't mind taking a drive over to see what they do.
Currently I'm in the situation of having a mint 8v but wanting more power, not sure if it's worth modding the 8v or looking for a 16v.

[chrismc]

Havent got the address to hand but their number is 02380 666200.

Speak to Vanessa & she`ll set you straight.

Whatever you decide, an 8v is gonna cost big bucks to get any decent power out of... [:s]

[zoid]

Thanks for the info, that's what my mechanic says, i.e. to get good power from the 8v will cost!
So if you had to do all over again would you still mod the 8v or would have gone for a 16v etc?

[chrismc]

Thanks for the info, that's what my mechanic says, i.e. to get good power from the 8v will cost!
So if you had to do all over again would you still mod the 8v or would have gone for a 16v etc?

Not sure really. The 8v is fantastic on the road (especially tuned) but a standard 16v starts where an 8v ends power wise TBH...Saying that I enjoy starting off with a standard car & making all the improvements to it over time [:D]

The 16v has the potential to go to 165+BHP with a 2L bottom end & standard injection which makes a mk2 properly quick...but I must admit I do like embarressing people in a humble 8v.

To date this has included a Corrado G60, numerous standard 16v`s, a standard Golf VR (through the twisties [:P] [;)] )& various other types of hot hatch!! [:^:]

Its not the fastest thing on 4 wheels dont get me wrong, but it shows an 8v can be tuned for decent performance!

I would suggest it still boils down to driving style. The 8v is very punchy low down & mid range & very torquey whereas a 16v is more peaky & needs revving. The same holds true in 2L form except the numbers are bigger.

Ultimately a 16v will always be quicker like for like, (& cheaper to tune) but an 8v can hold its own in "most" situations!!
[;)]

[zoid]

To be honest I really love my 8v especially as it's in such good condition, and for probably 90% of my driving situations it's great. However it's the other 10% where I feel the 8v engine is let down, for example when over-taking or when going for a Sunday blast, the 8v pulls well to 5k but then just when you really need that extra power it's all over. I guess I would really love the best of both worlds i.e. the bottom end of the 8v combined with the top end of the 16v for those 10% of situations!
However back in my younger days I had a Mk1 GTI, and fitted a Piper fast road cam (can't remember the exact duration), it really brought the 8v to life, ok the tick over was a bit lumpy but when giving it some beans the 8v would pull from 5k and wanted to keep reving into the red line!

PS your signiture say 'Swaziland', how do you get over to Southampton?

Edited by: zoid

[chrismc]

To be honest I really love my 8v especially as it's in such good condition, and for probably 90% of my driving situations it's great. However it's the other 10% where I feel the 8v engine is let down, for example when over-taking or when going for a Sunday blast, the 8v pulls well to 5k but then just when you really need that extra power it's all over. I guess I would really love the best of both worlds i.e. the bottom end of the 8v combined with the top end of the 16v for those 10% of situations!
However back in my younger days I had a Mk1 GTI, and fitted a Piper fast road cam (can't remember the exact duration), it really brought the 8v to life, ok the tick over was a bit lumpy but when giving it some beans the 8v would pull from 5k and wanted to keep reving into the red line!

PS your signiture say 'Swaziland', how do you get over to Southampton?


This is exactly why I have gone 2L & now BVH on the 8v. Combined with the flywheel & 282deg/11.6mm lift cam I reckon it will really rev now!!! [:Y:]

Help me get from Swaziland Swindon to Southampton that bit quicker [;)]

[VR6Will]

chris, whereabouts you really from? i'd love to see wot ur car is like wen its finished, im planning a similar conversion to u, perhaps ur car will make it happen that bit sooner!

[chrismc]

Im between Chippenham & Swindon mate, although Im planning a day down @ TSR for Graham to set it up once its done [:P]