Decided to buy my 2nd VW (1st was my '92 1.0 Polo CL coupe ), gonna go for a mk4 GT TDI but not sure on what the differences are on the varying hp options, is it the same basics with different ecu mapping, or are there 'physical' differences? Anything which i should be looking for that commonly go or cost loads to fix? cheers guys, & Merry xmas
Mk4 Gt Tdi Buying & General Mk4 Info. -Without doubt the 150 is obviously the more tunable, although many do say the 130 actually is due to less turbo-Lag. Prob not much too choose between them in terms of longevity tbh, just maintain it sensibly, and it'll be fine. -Any mk4 buying guide is going to apply to the diesel in most respects apart from the engine. -The 100 is generally worth giving a miss, unless a complete steal. All comes back to a question of money too really. -The 110 and 115 are almost identical. However most 110s came with a 5speed box and had significantly less torque. -The 130 is obviously the best compromise, although any of the models can be ecu mapped to add approx another 40ish bhp, while 115 still a competent choice too -Visually, 130 and 115 will look similar apart from alloys: the 130 has 'Long Beach' alloys. -However the 150 can be identified from the 130 thus: *Huge intercooler alongside the rad (if you're under bonnet), *Different front valence(As 4mot), *Alloy wheels, four 6 x 16 ‘Montreal II’ with 205/55 R16 tyres and anti theft wheel bolts, *Black Wood Trim, *Leather/wood gear knob, *Lowered Suspension, *Lumbar support (both front seats), *3 rear head restraints with rear centre three point seat belt. -Ideally use the data sticker to verify the model - don't rely on boot badges..... -Theres 3 stickers to match up: In the boot, in the service book and on top of the cambelt cover(small sticker, still with engine code on it) -Each tdi model remaps differently, typically adding about 40hp (generic). -Choosing a bora is a good idea - much cheaper than the golf, but more or less same performance and spec. Sport/ Highline models one to aim for. -Expect 50 MPG from TDI's on a mixed run, and down to circa low 40's for around town. Main Models of mk4: Petrols: 2.0 8v: 115hp (basically the engine from the mk3gti8v 1.8 20v: 125hp (no turbo) 1.8 20vt : 150hp, 180hp (same engine, later uses different turbo) 2.3 V5: 150hp, 170hp (5 cylinder engines) V6 4motion: 204hp (2.8 24v engine from the mk3vr6) R32 : 240hp (3.2l version of the 4mot) Diesels: 090: as the original mk3 tdi (non-PD tho) 110: development of the mk3 gttdi engine 115: As above, but with more torque; with PD technology(no main fuel dist, injectors are direct) 130: As above but with different turbo/injectors/map 150: As above again with different turbo/injectors/FMIC/map/internals. Mk4 Diesel Engine codes from ELSA Code : Power[Kw]/rpm : Year -AGP : 50/4200 : From 10.97 -AGR : 66/4000 : From 10.97 -AHF : 81/41500 : From 10.97 -AJM : 85/4000 : From 05.99 -ALH : 66/3750 : from 10.97 -AQM : 50/4200 : from 11.98 -ARL : 110/4000 : from 09.00 -ASV : 81/4000 : From 09.99 -ASZ : 96/4000 : from 11.00 -ATD : 74/4000 : from 02.00 -AUY : 85/4000 : from 05.00 -AXR : 74/4000 : from 05.01 -BEW : 74/4000 : from 05.01 Some of the 'typical' things going wrong with mk4s include -Mafs - become u/s so power loss experienced -coilpacks - breakup causing misfires -window regs - break so glass drops. -arb drop links - wear out creating irritating knocking @ front -beam bushes - specialist tools needed. -brake light switches - tricky to fit new, easily broke -wiper linkage - seizes up. -master cylinders - replace. -washer lines - needs unblocking -water pumps - replace factory plastic with metal one. -dirty throttle - needs cleaning. -hazards - the one piece switch/relay needs replacing. -temp sender - known to fail causing fuelling probs. -Check for regular cambelt changes - interval is 60k with later cars on 40k. Prudent to replace the tensioner and idle wheels too. FAQ concerning mk4s are: My car has flat spots when accelerating. Possible causes are a faulty or dirty MAF sensor, split turbo hose, faulty EGR or N75 boost control valves. These don’t always appear as faults on VAGCOM. MAF sensor appears to be the most common fault. Cleaning the MAF may help but ultimately, it needs replacing. How do I remove my OEM head unit? Cut a sturdy but no longer required credit card/plastic card into 1cm strips lengthways. Insert these into the slots located on the left and right hand lower sides of the HU and it will unlock and you can then remove it. My rear washer isn’t working. It’s likely that the washer hose has detached, probably from the motor. Sometimes it can detach in the roof lining but you’ll probably notice a wet patch. My car keeps stalling / misfiring. This could be caused by a faulty MAF sensor (again), temperature sender, relay 109 (diesels only), dirty throttle body, faulty coilpacks (petrol) or dirty contacts on the ignition amplifier. Relay 109 - the sure-fire sign is when you try to start the car, the glowplug lamp stays out. After a few tries, glowplug light comes on, car starts My window has fallen into the door. The plastic window regulator has probably failed. Repair kits are available, which contain metal clips. My central locking / door lock / alarm isn’t working. This could be due to a faulty door lock module. You might be able to repair the faulty door lock by re-soldering the connections. Some people seem to have success simply spraying with WD40. Otherwise, it's a case of having to replace it. My windscreen wipers have stopped working. The mechanism has probably seized. You can either replace the mechanism or strip it down, rub it with wet and dry and re-grease. There's a rattle when I accelerate. This usually means the front or centre exhaust mount has snapped,small amount of welding needed or you could try using some large jubilee clips. My cooling fans don't seem to be working correctly when the aircon is running. Unfortunately, this is another common fault on the MkIV. I THINK it mostly affects the models that have climatronic aircon. To check if your fans are faulty, following is recommended: 1. turn engine on, 2. turn aircon on, 3. make sure ECON is "OFF" 4. Check fans are running constantly IE for more than 1-2 minutes 5. if the fans do nothing then run very fast, then stop after a minute or 2 or even 3 then you have faulty fans Fans My key-fob doesn't work Assuming that the batteries are ok, it's likely that the key has lost it's code. If you have 2 keys, put one in the ignition and turn on (I'd lower the windows, just in case!), manually lock the drivers door with the other key. Press either/both buttons on the remote (alarm should chirp). Manually unlock the door and turn the ignition off. It should now be coded. There's resistance in the steering followed by a strange twanging noise, especially when making slow, full lock manoeuvres. Strut top bearings possibly seized. Boot light doesn't work Possibly a blown bulb but more likely the rear washer hose has popped off and soaked the boot catch. There is a microswitch in the mechanism that doesn't like getting wet. Remove the boot lid cover by undoing a screw in each handle on the inside, then pull the plastic cover to unclip. The boot catch then comes out by undoing the 2 large spline bolts. Try drying the switch with a hairdryer after stopping the leaking hose, or ultimately replace the whole boot catch. Can also cause the alarm to act strangely. Heated mirrors don't work First check to see if your car has them! Pop the mirror glass out by getting your fingers behind the outer edge and pulling, if there are 2 wires attached then they are heated. They are activated by turning on the rear window demister. Check to see if there is 12 Volts across the 2 wires, and/or check the fuse. If there is 12 Volts there and the glass doesn't get warm then the mirror glass needs replacing. When I adjust the driver's wing mirror, the passenger mirror also moves but when I adjust the passenger mirror the drivers side stays still - is this a fault?This is a feature not a fault, for convenience when adjusting for different driver height etc. To adjust mirrors, move the drivers side first (R) and then adjust passenger side (L) if necessary The traction control light is coming on whilst I'm driving This might also throw an alternator fault code also. The light will go out if the engine is switched off and back on. Follow the 2 small wires from alternator to a connector at front of gearbox, the wires break at that connector. There's a clunking noise when I go over small bumps Possibly caused by worn Anti-Roll Bar bushes.
The 110bhp diesel is the same as the 90bhp near enough, as its a old skool rotory injection and not PD which is why its got less torque. Karl
Great link as just bought 150 and playing up and jumping when pushing in third and fourth .. Had fly wheel or something replaced but still doing so thinking of going to vw ???? Cheers for all knowledge...
Are there any differences through the years of manufacture? im thinking of buying a 51 plate 2002 gt tdi but would i be better buying a later model? Cheers.
