Got most things off the 2E Im stripping for painting. One thing Im sruck on though is getting the hoses removed. I've moved the clips further down the hose and off the flange, prised one edge up with a flat screwdriver and sprayed wd40 in and around it. Managed to get the front one to the oil cooler off ok but the rear and lower ones won't budge. Also, how do I get the dizzy out? I have loosened off the boot clamp thing but it wont budge . And when taking the belts off which pulley is best to crack first? I've loosened the tensioner already. Another problem I can forsee is with the housing on the front breather just above the dizzy. Soaked the allen head bolts in wd a few times but when trying to remove the top right one I could feel it starting to ring or stretch so I stopped. if you managed to read this far, thank you... all advise welcome...
Squish the clips open with mole grips, then wiggle it down the hose, then cut the hose. If you need to then clip the "tongue" on the clip off so you can open it wider. Try knocking the dizzy ROUND with a hammer and big flathead/blunt bolster etc. before you try and remove it - and plenty of WD. Just cut the belts, then you can take any pulley off by bracing it with another allen key/socket/whatever one bolt at a time, till they are all cracked, then whip them all out. If the allen head rings, knock a spline or torx bit into it with a hammer - much better grip. Try tightening it a wee touch before you go to undo it.
Another trick with a stuck dizzy is try turning the crank over if it has been sitting for ages the drive can stick.
try getting a flat blade screw driver in the pipe join and follow it round, while twisting and tugging like a monkey until your veins pop out off your head
I've never had to cut a hose off, but if you're not re-using them it'll be quicker. The screwdriver under the end and wiggle round usually works for me. Take the water pump and PAS pump off and hold the hose in a vice while twisting the water pump - more leverage. Looks like the circlip is still in the thermostat hose in that pic too. I don't think you need that bit, from memory, so just remove it from there. You could even unbolt the whole thermostat elbow and use the one from your PB engine.
thanks for the advise chaps. Just going for my 4th cup of coffee before I get started. I'm hoping to have it completely stripped, rubbed down and degreased by tonight.
just cut the hoses, you can get brand new one for pence, and i some times find that a good chain whip around a pully can work a treat but dont damage it!!!!!
Have everything else off apart from the dizzy and the water pump and pas pump. Can I just leave the pas pump and pulley off the block when building back up as my Mk2 doesn't have pas? I've the belt covers off and Im just about to take the belts and pulleys off but how do I remove the clutch from the other side of the block?
Clutch should be pretty easy to take off. There's 2 different kinds - a regular design and the shorter design where the clutch is inside the flywheel. In either case, undo the 6 (or 9) 9mm 12 spline bolts around the outside (holds the pressure plate, or flywheel, on) - you might need to buy a socket to do this, if your socket set has 6-face hex sockets. These shouldn't be too tight. Then take off the clip and plate with a pair of pliers, its not clipped with a huge amount of force. Then using this flywheel locking technique: Undo the 6x bolts holding the pressure plate (or flywheel). (Credit goes to Broke, for the flywheel locking technique!)
excellent, cheers for that paul. I was just looking at the relevant drawings on ETOS but sometimes it's not very clear what goes where. And what about leaving the PAS pumpp off when building up? C'mon, Mike... where are ya? You and TSC have practically done this for me...lol cheers Phil.
There's a bunch of stuff you could leave off until the engine's in the car, to stop it getting in the way during the install. Fitting it while the engine is in or out of the car, would be same effort. Of course, it depends on which car its going into - the Mk1 has a high slam panel, while this is removeable on Mk2 and others. Power steering pump (for me) would be pretty high up on the list of things to fit after the engine's in the car. Others could be (thinking of Mk1 install): WUR Alternator Oil cooler Oil filter Oil filter housing What car's it going into?
its a 2E going into a PB 8v. I intend on building the engine back up more or less fully in the garage before fitting. what I meant by the pas is I don't have it on my car and don't intend to install it. Can I just leave it off and getting belts for a non pas 2E?
yes you can, you will just have the oles to bolt it on to for the future, unless you put a pas rack on it???? and just get the belts that will fit
cheers Den, got as much done tonight as I could. Need to go get a splined socket set tomorow and a few more tools so I can remove the clutch and remaining pulley. I've got enough off the block to paint it so I soaked it in white spirit and rubbed in with a brush then did the same with Gunk and rinsed with water, then dried it. I'll leave it srying overnight and paint it black tomorrow.
Give it a scrub with celly thinners first - some engine paints don't like the residue white spirit leaves. And smoke a lot while doing it. The "Flammable!!!!" label on the can is just there for fun.....
