OMG what have i bought came to mind when i bought my Golf Driver for 400 from the autotrader. Stunning condition, No running problems....yeah right whatever you say Mr Car Dealer So after putting off fixing the car "properly" and not the bodged up way that its been treated, i thought id take some photos of what i found PIC 1: First glance it doesnt look to bad hey, errr no. Note the vac pipe from the green ball, follow it down and past the t peice and it goes to atmosphere, hmmm thats not right, then i find the screw thats bodged into the hole of the brake servo pipe, i know that vac line should attached there so ive asked for a 2nd hand one via the wanted section of this site, heres hoping i can get one of those. Also note the cable tie that someones wedged into the choke plate on the right....my god what have they done to this car ?? PIC 2: The carb now off the car for closer inspection. Theres that damn cable tie again, why do people do these things PIC 3: Heres the rear of the carb, so glad i took it off now as it shows what i couldnt see while it was on the car, Vac pipes are all split and totally shot (garage man said he had replaced them all when i bought the car) also seems the thermo valve to the right dont work (you think) so that will need plumbing in correctly. The top vac line is totally bent over so cant be working correctly. PIC 4: The thermo valve close up, do people not think these valves are there for a reason ?? So the plan of action so far (good old ebay) is whole new vac lines. Ive also ordered a new carb to manifold flange as there was loooooads of silcone sealant on the base of the carb and all round the mating face of the flange. Im trying to find a suitable t-piece for the rear vac lines. All im desperatly in need for is the brake servo pipe with the special valve, and also a one way valve thats missing from the vac lines for the green ball (thanks EZ PETE for previous posts on this site regarding this valve, i think its much needed part for the whole setup to be right) And the car all this is for? Well for 400 its not really that bad, a good wash and a scrub to get the years of crud has got it this far, should clean up better to be a good GTi wannabe for sure
Ay-up! Looks like you've got a bit on there... I've defo got spares of the t-pieces and the non-return valve, and working TTVs. No time during office hours, but I'll catch you later. Pete
Hey there Pete Wooo if you can help me with the Ts and the NRV that would be fab like they say, its not what you know its who you know... Im dreading what else i may find but i guess its all good fun
looks like you got a bargain there tbh, the carb might be stuck together with parcel tape but the bodywork looks superb, the mechanicals are easy to fix once the bodywork is straight. nice one, I wish the bodywork on my driver was that good to bring it closer to gti spec, change the driver front discs and pads for gti vented ones, much less fade that way. and you can fit the front anti-roll bar from a gti without too much faff. this mod improves handling on roundabouts no end if you need parts then let me know, I do carry a lot of random bits n bobs for these carbs and cars, I think I might even have a whole 2e2 stashed away in my shed somewhere if that would help you?
Wow cheers Drew, will see how this carb pulls together first. Aslong as i get it close to how it should operate, then im hoping it will run sweet as...or like a bag of LOL Thanks for the comments on the car, its cleaning up slowly. The interior was awful and i almost threw up when i was cleaning it out, i best not say anymore haha, but as for everything else, it will look good !!! Good ol` Mr Posty delivered the vac pipe this morningso spent sum time cutting and replacing the vac pipes for the carb, green tank, dizzy, airbox temp flap etc etc so its slowly getting there. I just need what looks to be like 2 t-peices to finish off the carb and the Non-return valve for the other vac line. With a new mani-carb flange (tomoz i hope) and that damn pesky brake servo hose thats got a screw in it...see below... http://www.clubgti.com/forum/showthread.php?t=157474
There are some components it will be worth checking out to see if fixing up this carb is economically viable. If there are several problems, it may be worth considering a reconditioned one off Ebay, there's a guy selling them at around 150, no guarantees but thoroughly checked out. 1.6 version, and 1.8 version. I'm not the seller BTW! Also you've probably heard that there's a manual choke Weber (32/34 DMTL) 'drop-in' replacement which is much simpler, and many say has performance advantages. It's not cheap new, but they sell on Ebay fairly regularly for much less. Probably a bit thirstier than the 2e2. Common bits that fail on the 2e2: Waxstat, take it off and see how far the little pin is extending past the front face of the flange, should be ~2mm with moderate pressure on the pin. Should extend out to about 10mm when the whole thing is immersed in boiling water. Around 30 from GSF. Pulldown unit, follow Drew's test instructions from the FAQ, "to check for vac leaks in this unit attach a pipe to the lower port and unplug the upper port. Suck on the pipe. The arm should move a small amount and then stop when the vac collapes. Then if you put your finger over the upper port ad keep sucking the arm should withdraw a bit more and hold vacuum. If it fails to hold vac then replace." About 20 from GSF. You'll probably also have read about the coolant channel o-ring in the intake manifold, not strictly part of the carb, but if badly blocked can cause havoc to the cold start system. Cheap to fix, but fairly grief-laden, and not really necessary with the Weber. That'll do for now .
Ahhhh top info yet again. Ive checked the O ring on the intake, thanks again for previous info posted on this site, and alls ok in that dept. I took the manifold off as i didnt wanna do all this work to the carb to find theres an airleak round the manifold...i hate doing the same thing twice haha I also checked the waxstat and it looks quite new. None the less i checked the pin for movement (measured also) and its working good as Ive just checked on the pull down unit, again working spot on...im doing well so far hey So my 400 quid looks safe for now haha
Good stuff mate, next two things to check are the TTV and the 3-point unit. TTV: take off the blocked vac hoses and attach one long one to the port nearest the centre. Below about 15C (pop the whole carb outside for half an hour!) you should be able to blow or suck through to the other port, above that temp you shouldn't. You can check the electrical heater inside if you have a multimeter, probes on the two connections you should see about 6-8 ohms IIRC. I have known good spares of this item. 3-point unit: that's the thing bottom right in this pic: Take off both vac hoses and attach a longer one to the bottom connection. Suck (hard) on this and the plunger/actuator on the far side should withdraw to the idle postition (about 8-9mm out). Then block the other port with a finger and suck again, now it should move all the way back, and crucially, should stay there if you quickly stick your tongue over the hose you're sucking on. This proves the big diaphragm inside isn't leaking.
I'm thinking that either the guy who botched your carb was clueless (quite likely tbh) or that there is something wrong with the carb somewhere and the botch was a botch to get the car running. seems like the tests are all coming back ok, so you may be fine just to replace all the hoses as per the 2e2 FAQ and put it back on your new manifold rubber gasket, in which case you got a steal for the price you paid. also as per the FAQ, make sure the intake hot air system is working, and the heater on the front of the carb too
Just going to pop out and check the TTV and the 3 point unit, and hope that they are ok. Cost wise so far for the carb is.... New 3mm Vac Pipe (2 metres) 6 New Rubber Flange 12.95 Abit of hardwork and patience priceless Im guessing i can test if the hot air systems are working without the carb attached ? I can ground some of the items out using the brown wire attached to the RC so heres hoping.. lol
Well great news, the valves are ok. Not bad for an 18y/o car, and the base plate for the carb turned up this morn so thats been fitted. I took some pics of the new and old parts..you can see why i had to change it...note the large cracks in the rubber on the old one.. NEW: OLD:
Thats a nice looking car... My carb had issues too, but vacuum hose and wax stat and a clean sorted her out big time. Runs like a dream now. Was going to go to the weber side, but as the carb is running good I decided to keep it original... and it still packs a punch!!
Thanks for the comments on the car...yeah im hoping it drives better than it used too BIG THANKS to EZ PETE for the t-pieces in the post (next day woo hoo) but im off for a job interview at 3pm with Vauxhall Dealer Assistance and didnt want to get my hands dirty Wish me luck
Check they haven't got cracked, my hurried packaging wasn't very good . All you've gotta do now is work out what that tyrap was doing in amongst the autochoke . Worth checking the electrical heater in there (12-13 ohms feed-wire to ground), and its associated thermoswitch on the coolant flange near the dizzy.
Sorry about the lack of response peeps, back now tho Ok, still not running like it should "no suprise there" I think what im going to do is take the inlet manifold off again and double check everything. Ive ordered myself another new inlet manifold gasket, but does anyone know how i can get a new inlet manifold rubber grommet ? Checked ebay with no luck. Im also going to change the wax stat as im not happy with the way its working, so any news on one of them would be fab too. If anyone has any spares of these items...i have paypal ready and waiting. Im also still in desperate need of the brake vacuum pipe (see post num 5) i cant find one anywhere Si
GSF part nr 11811 INL.MANIF.SEALING WASHER, on GSF online catalogue in the engine gaskets and seals section. And its only a quid
Ay-up Si, sorry to hear you've still got running probs, what specifically are the symptoms now? Looks like the brake servo fitting you want comes with the stiff hose attached, VW part number 192 611 931A, although vagcat.com isn't 100% clear on this; listing this number for the following: 192 611 931A vacuum pipe with check valve 1.6/1.8ltr. rhd / EZ,GU,RF,RH but then listing 192 611 931H for rhd GU also, which seems to be in the above group? GSF do the waxstats, (genuine Pierburg) called "Expansion elements" IIRC. I think they do two, for different sized water pipes (10mm/12mm), so worth a quick measure of the old one. I doubt you'll find a working secondhand waxstat anywhere unless someone had just replaced one before giving up and going Weber.
Same problems really, im not driving the car, just working on it as and when i can. Wont start properly from cold, then when its warm the revs are erratic. All the electrics seem ok, clicking noises, and voltages. And the vac hoses are set up right now and none are blanked off. Ive just found a Vac pipe (at last) which is gona cost me 10. Ive found a crack in the wax stat thats causing a water leak onto the inlet, so thats deffo got to be sorted now but funds only allow from paypal at present. Pain i know
TTV and pulldown unit are two things that might be suspect if you have trouble with cold starting. Guess the TTV may have originally been blanked off 'cos it, or the wiring to it, wasn't working right, check for 12V across the connector pins (ignition on) and 6.5-8 ohms across the pins of the TTV itself. Check pulldown as described in an earlier post. Edit: You could also have a probelm with the diaphragm of the 3/4 point unit; if that were leaking it might be struggling to maintain the required position for a steady idle. Test by attaching a long hose to the lowermost vac nipple, with the other one plugged/blocked. A hard suck (or vac pump) should make the actuator withdraw fully, and should hold vac.
