Hello peeps Basically as the title says which inlet, throttle body and injectors do I need? Its for a mk2 with a 2L 16V turbo using the kr head and ady bottom end. my thoughts were either to switch to the inlet, injectors and fuel rail off a 20vt with the kr throttle body bolted to the end or to retain the kr inlet and throttle body and just use the 20vt fuel rail and injectors? I also have the 20vt throttle body on offer but wasn't sure if it was simpler to stick with the cable operated one of the kr. my main thoughts on the 20vt manifold was that it would help shorten the induction track and also being as far from the turbo as possible help avoid any heat soak. can any one tell me which set up would be the better? its not going to be heuge power, 240-260bhp initially if that is a factor. I'm also after a fuel reg but again not to sure which one so if any one could tell me what I need to look for when buying I can go do some propper research. I'm new to all this forced induction buisness so if you could keep it simple for me I would very much appretiate it thanks for your help
on my 2ltr 16v, im using a tt inlet with a abf TB, slight mod on the holes to fit but not much hassle there, or get a 2e TB. Depends on what ur using to control the fuel ,spark ect, ie megasquirt , if using MS then u need a TB with a throttle postion switch, { 2E,ABF,and others,} the KR one doesnt have that. Injectors , you will need a 1.8t fuel rail, with green top 440cc injectors, if using the 1.8T inlet manifold ,you will need that to me modified to ur lower half kr inlet , you wont have to mod the fuel rail with extended injector fingers. If your using the orig KR inlet , then u need to mod the fuel rail.
cheers, when you say "if using the 1.8T inlet manifold ,you will need that to be modified to ur lower half kr inlet" dose that mean sliceing the flange off each and having the kr welded on? or could I have the holes in the 1.8 welded up and re-drilled in the correct places to match those of the kr lower section? how much do you think would be a fair price for injectors, rail and manifold? cheers again
check my inlet, half way down. the guy who did it is off of edition 38, proper good job, cost bout 140 all together, but this is hassle free for me this way, as it fits on the kr block no probs , http://www.clubgti.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=162730 there was a company who made adapter plates for the 1.8t inlet, but he was dodgy and got shut down. Its tottaly the wrong size flanges just to matt up to the kr block, the ports are the same spacing but not the flanges , hense adapter plate. not sure exactly how the guy cut it, but yeah proberly using a band saw, cut at an angle , sliced both flanges off, then weld the 1.8t inlet to the KR inlet flange, havnt got the injectors yet, but your looking bout 150 for them maybe cheaper if you get em second hand, fuel rail cost 50 off ebay, and i bagged the TT inlet manifold plus the flyby wire TB for 80 off ebay,
by fly by wire I take it you mean one with a tps censor? it will still be operated with a cable though, right?
fly by wire , is electrical operated throttle body, it comes built in with a TPS, but has no cables to open the butterfly, im not using this TB tho, to much hassle to wire up,i think its only good for a replacement if one is broke ,if any one wants a spare one , i have it lol,
thought thats what it was, its just some people refer to tb's with a tps as fly by wire so I thought I'd check. I think I'll be using the ady tb that I'm getting with the engine off Ian, it comes with a tps and the block has a crank sensor so thats that box ticked to. If I polish the tb of the old kr I can put it on ebay, a good rub has to be worth 10-12 horse on there - should make atleast a grand to...
Ive got a 20v inlet and fuel rail spare, having a clearout so if u want em cheap drop me a pm. They are off a mk4 golf so agu engine which has the inlet on the opposite side to the tt inlet.
dose any one know If I can retain the 16v inlet in full and still use the 20vt injectors and rail? would like to save the hastle of fab work and I get to paint mine satin black so it looks all hard and angry then
there isnt a throttle body on that ady btw I may still have it somewhere but have a suspicion i binned it ages ago
yes but you will need to make extra long metal tubes that fit on each injector insert on the 1.8 t fuel rail { welded of course } , but that means you will have to run extra long inter cooler pipe, from the inlet to the intercooler { on the left looking at engine }, { i belive more turbo lag } then theres the plumbing of the turbo outlet to intercooler , as the 16v manifold is being used that takes that postion up , you would have to clock the turbo 180 degrees and run that round the back of the engine, to the other side of the intercooler { right side if looking and engine ,} more lag i would of thought,
nealy you pain in the harris! means I have to go back to smiths and trudge throught the mud again... [:^(] why on earth did you launch it? Tomo: if I clock the turbo 180 degrees the the filter would stay were the airbox lived then join the inlet side of the turbo at the left of the engine (as you face it), then the outlet pipe work would exit to the right of the engine and come round and over the gearbox to the i.c. the i.c. would be infront of the rad or in the corner of the bay next to the gearbox near where the battery was. then I would run a pipe from its exit on the other side up to the throttle body. so a circular route really and was about as short as I could find I thought. or have I just completely missed a trick? I guess having the t.b. on the gearbox side would cut most of this out... cheers
It may still be about, it just involves searching in the random parts i have to find it, can have a look on wednesday when you come and get that engine off my floor!!!
