tried to do the cambelt today, have a genuine belt + tensioner. I just could not get the bottom pulley off to release the bottom part of the cover?? I undid the four allen key bolts probably not needed, and was trying to undo the nut in the middle? trouble is the box is off, and I can't figure out a way to stop it spinning?
do you mean the bottom crank pulley ? once the allen bolts are off it should just knock off IIRC.. the big bolt doesnt hold the pulley on
I had this problem too. The nut don'tt need to come off. After the allen bolts are off, try tapping the pulley off. Mine was tight on too. I removed the nut and separated the two. If i'd have known id have try to separate it without removing the bolt.
As mentioned above no need to remove the crank bolt in the middle, remove the allen bolts and take a soft hammer to it.
sweet, i did try but you don't hit with full conviction unless you know it is right In terms of timing, there are the obvious marks on the top pulley, do the others have marks or do I have to make them myself?
flywheel and bottom pulley has marks too. Bottom pulley lines up with mark on timing belt cover. May be hidden under grease though.
bottom pulley can be sketchy as the cover can be moved about. if your flywheel has marks still, that makes it a doddle, worst case you put a 3/8 drive extension down spark plug 1 and do it from there mark, you doing the water flanges whilst its in bits?
bottom pulley has a hole on that lines up with a dimple on the crank sprocket, that'll get it roughty correct, as it has a little play when bolting up and as said the bottom cover can move. always use the flywheel mark when timing it, much more accurate.
as matt said just use something down spark plug hole no.1 to make sure it's at TDC. i use the dipstick as it's always to hand and plenty long enough.
http://www.clubgti.com/forum/showthread.php?t=172571&highlight=tdc+tool get that tool its the bollox .
id love one of those. i could have done with one in december as mine didnt have marks on its lightened flywheel
right, I was under the impression that I can just mark each pulley's position and put new belt back on without moving anything? guesse not then. is there any guide to getting the timing right? im scared!!!
line up this and this and then the flywheel/stick down cyl 1. then get the belt on starting from the crank, go back anti clock round to the cam pulley. put the tensioner on and line it up like this turn the crank over by ratchet clockwise a couple times (spark plugs out) the timing marks have to line up after, including the tensioner mark. if the tensioner doesnt, adjust the tensioner after that put the new water pump on that your mate broke whilst trying to loosen of the pas pump for you and torque it all up properly, otherwise you get this change some flanges just to make your life a bit harder, but you may as well do it take the engine from something messy to something working in a few hours. take back the water pump to vw as your shake down run, have a shower and then immediately head off 200 miles to cheshire
sweet thanks pal. not as daunting as first thought then. Is it a good idea to count the teeth on the cambelt from say the crank pulley to the cam pulley and make sure new belt is the same?
not really tbh. because of the teeth its pretty easy to work out when its right. one tooth off is quite far off
