Just wondering how people are getting on with their bias pedal boxes. I'm hoping to fit my 02A and debating whether or not to go for hydraulic clutch or cable operated. I've been told that the feel of a cable one isn't too good and that i'd be better off keeping hydraulic operation - i've got a bias pedal box sat there doing nothing so this would be ideal to use for the hydraulic clutch, however then this would also mean losing the brake servo (which would be great for under bonnet space) but i'm aware that the brake feel will change dramatically and as i'm reasonably happy for the time being with the brakes, i don't want to ruin the feel. I'm currently running a TSR 285 kit with standard calipers, which will only get upgraded when the other engine goes in at some point in the future. Its got discs on the back. I've had constant problems with the rear brakes as long as i've had the car, with the N/S locking up before the O/S, causing lots of hairy moments, so a bias box would hopefully sort this issue too - mine has a balance bar fitted together with a dash-mounted adjuster knob. Obviously its a lot of work to completely re-plumb the whole braking system, and i wouldn't want to go to all the trouble only to find i've 'ruined' the brakes! The other option is to sell the bias box and either use the Passat (i think) pedal box i've got which has hydraulic clutch operation, or convert the standard pedal box to hydraulic clutch and leave the braking system as-is. So, any info on how the bias boxes are performing, and problems encountered and solved and details of MC's used would be much appreciated. Also, if anyone has managed to use some sort of remote servo to help with braking pressure it would be great to have some info. Thanks in advance, Dan.
I'm on .625 for brakes and .75 for clutch. Braking is still ~ not sure, due to not using it enough. Remote servo fitted, may have to go up on the remote leverage ratio. Wilwood 4-pots and rear drums - Wilwoods may have an effect on leverage also.
Can't help on the pedal box, but I use the Seat clutch cable on mine, and I don't know what people complain about. Mine feels great, and I'm using a paddle clutch/heavy pressure plate.
Ooh, thats good to know, as the clutch is a 4-paddle AP and the box is a Quaife 6-speed. It'd be soo much easier to go down this route for the time being and perhaps convert to hydraulic and use the pedal box when the other engine goes in. I'm still gonna have to sort the rear brakes out though as i've no confidence whatsoever in wet conditions as it wants to switch ends in a blink under heavy braking Is the clutch heavy at all?
Mini bias valve - definitely the best, proven way forward. The Reeves use one, my ex-race Golf came with one, vw_singh's fitted one..
Clutch isn't heavy at all. It feels similair to the Helix organic clutch in my other Mk2. If you need more info, let me know. I'll be at Inters if you want to have a look and a feel (ooer). As Chris says above, plumb in a bias valve to the existing brake setup, should be job done.
Does this replace the standard rear brake compensator? I've got dual lines to the rear and the original compensator. I was considering changing it to just one line to the rear and fitting an inline bias adjuster lever inside the car. If i'm correct, that'd ensure that both sides at the rear always had the same pressure which would stop one side locking up before the other which is the main problem at the mo. The adjuster would give the added benefit of allowing me to tame the rear a bit dependant upon track conditions, which would be an added bonus. Any pics to help with the mini valve upgrade? Cheers.
Here's what they look like - this is early Mini and they're only useful for front-rear piped systems. Here's one in the Reeves' Mk1: One of the outlets on the side needs to be blocked off, unless you mount it at the t-piece point for the rear brake lines, in which case it's a t-piece aswell. The adjuster nut in the top is a retro-fit. Aldon used to supply them, tap the top with a thread and fit that bolt which adjusts the sprint tension. Then the main supply of the valves dried up, so Aldon stopped supplying them to Tweeks. You can still get them on eBay and via Mini specialists. Any tapped bolt size will do. ^^ It's the opposite end to the screw cap that needs tapping. If you get a new one, you won't need to split it apart. If you buy a used one, they need stripping for corrosion checks on the inner walls, since it's just a rubber seal that is holding the pressure back from the atmosphere. Replacement plungers used to be obtainable. Stripping them apart helps understand how they work tbh.
I'm using mine as a t-splitter too. Bare in mind that the thread on the fittings is different to the VAG stuff so buy some new brake pipe ends to suit. I threw out the original compensator and have only the Mini bias valve in its place with one brake line from the master cylinder feeding it. Gurds
Would an in line adjuster work in conjunction with a pedal box too? Mine has an in car adjuster knob fitted, so i wouldn't need one of these too if i fitted the bias box would i? I might just soldier on till winter, and then fit the bias box and re-plumb all the brakes as this would also solve the cable/hydraulic choice for the clutch.
No, you can't necessarily just run a pedal box without an adjuster. All the effort plumbing in, only to risk the backs nipping up isn't worth it. Agree - best do that
Even if the pedal box is fitted with a balance bar and remote adjuster for front/rear bias? Mine came fitted with a couple of extras......
You still need the option of trimming the backs separately, eg for ease of adjustment (a windy adjuster isn't quick to position), wet to dry conditions etc.
Cheers. Reason for asking is i don't want to go and buy some form of in-car adjuster to solve the problem this year, and then find its redundant when the pedal box is fitted. I think i'll first fit an in-line adjuster and re-plumb the rear to one line, and then when the pedal box is fitted it'll only be the front line into the adjuster that needs to be replaced, and the bits after it can stay untouched.
