20v cam profiles?

Discussion in '1.8 & 1.8T' started by coupechamp, Dec 7, 2009.

  1. coupechamp Forum Member

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    Hi all, does anyone happen to know what the cam details are for the AGU 20v head, i.e profiles / durations etc. Trying to establish where i am with the race Polo so as to maybe move forward with some knew profiles, cheers in advance:thumbup:

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  2. A.N. Other Banned after significant club disruption Dec 5th 2

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    Doug, I'm not sure if this helps...

    These are the homologated DTC profiles for the Gol IV N/A 20V, but I cannot be 100% that the lifts are standard or racing spec.

    Someone more familiar with the 20V will hopefully clarify.

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  3. coupechamp Forum Member

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    as ever Chris, much appreciated ;) i will have a good look after i get thje boys out of the house...[:^(]
     
  4. INA

    INA Forum Member

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    Doug was that turbo and you converted it to NA?
     
  5. coupechamp Forum Member

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    This current engine came as a box of bits from South Africa but is the same as the engine that was in the car when it arrived, N/A non turbo but with what i think was a standard head. If needed i will pull out the cams from the spare engine and have them measured to see what we have, but thought if they where standard then someone might know what they are. A bit puzzled as to why it only gets to a max of 6200rpm, i thought we could open this up a bit and maybe get a bit more lower down grunt!! hhmmnnnn[:s]
     
  6. A.N. Other Banned after significant club disruption Dec 5th 2

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    Did you say the compressions are standard / unknown in another thread?
     
  7. coupechamp Forum Member

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    it's supposed to be the 1.8T bottom end with a different crank!! which gives it a different throw to make 2Ltr, i'm sure it makes sense to someone, bore size etc i assume are standard, i did measure a piston once (on here somewhere) and concluded they where standard size. This current bottom gives really good compression.... so i have been told, but the car still has this lack of go, great when it gets there,

    i hear you all shouting ratios...F/D's..... hhmmnn done that route and now seem to have a solid 5 speed box with a good F/D.
     
  8. A.N. Other Banned after significant club disruption Dec 5th 2

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    Really shouting compression ratios Doug. If it's less than 12:1, it needs to be upped asap.
     
  9. coupechamp Forum Member

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    hhhmmmnnn.... easy ways (and a lack of a proper budget) to do it anyone......you dont get all this in a one make championship...:p

    Audi 225 TT engine[xx(]

    ideas always welcome, i think i still owe a few pints here and there.......:clap:
     
  10. danster Forum Addict

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    Can you get the compression figures checked with a gauge and post them up?

    It really depends on what bits the engine was built with. Turbo pistons will give lower cr than na ones and turbo cams are different profiles too.
    As it sounds like it has had work done with the crank it could have anything in there. Be wary of the trigger wheel on the crank too if you are going to be revving it high too. Someone had one centrifuge itself out the block!

    ADR passat is a na 1.8 20v that may be source of cams. Obviously not as good as pukka aftermarket but better than turbo specs.
    Also running the short turbo inlet manifold may not help matters. Can you go to ITBs within the rules?
     
  11. coupechamp Forum Member

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    nice one, was going the route and still might run TB's, certain cars in the championship are allowed. The 1st thing will be new management and a set of cams from CAT cams. Strangely it has had two flywheels break, both lightened and balanced Eurotech items, the 1st lost some teeth but the 2nd had a crack go through all the bolt holes so the core was actually moving seperate to the outside, how it never came of...... boy did it vibrate!!! I know of the top of my head it has high compression, but i could get the figures up to see what it actually is. I was about to through a full kit on it, (ECU, TB's manifild etc), but the tax man wanted the money instead!! so for now it will be the ECU and cams.

    cheers for now:thumbup:
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  12. danster Forum Addict

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    You are one lucky person!

    If that flywheel had parted i hate to think what would have happened.:o

    The fact that it has done 2 may warrant an investigation as to why. Sump off and check everything is alright. Does it have a crankshaft damper pulley fitted for the drive belts? Check crank part no when you are in there and trigger wheel too.
    If you are going to get cat cams and rev it high, may be worth looking at the internal trigger wheel. Not sure if there was a reason Boffs let go or if other people rev there ABFs with no issue but certainly one thing to check. The car looks really nice and worthy of a decent engine.
    Is the head large port or small port. If going to throttle bodies the ADR engine has a really nice inlet manifold that they fit straight onto. Or you could go carbs and buy my inlet manifold for webers!;)
     
  13. coupechamp Forum Member

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    it did have a damper on the pulley but it disintergrated at a race and caused a few problems. It's now solid (i think) as it was swapped in a hurry and it came off a friends car in he's garden, (a vw graveyard). Engine wise it's not going to rev much higher but 6500 just seems low, i'm sure i can get a bit more out of it without going silly. I have a complete spare engine which was in it for the 1st season before i took it out and built this current one up, same spec, so i could have a look at that, which i need to do to get the cams measured up to see what we have. Head wise it's the big valve one, and like most vw heads didnt need any work when i went to see stage2, good enough of the shelf. Would be good to get it going well for next season as there's going to be another two Polo's out there, so need to be at least the quickest Polo...;)
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  14. danster Forum Addict

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    Big valve one? Did you not mean big port one?

    If the crankshaft damper fell to bits and the 2 flywheels have broke and you are not reving passed 6200 this is of some concern as to why this is happening.
    Has the supposed 2.0 crank been lightened?
    Pretty sure the internal trigger wheel will be ok up 7250 but i would expect you to be going beyond that occasionally once setup with cams and running good.
    Get some compression readings taken then you know where you are and can work from there.
    Do not trust what the manuals say and base cc calculations on these figures. Proper volume checking is the real way to do this.
    What ecu is it running at present?
     
  15. A.N. Other Banned after significant club disruption Dec 5th 2

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    By the looks, the flywheel didn't have a spreader plate under the bolts. This could explain it.

    Internal triggers: Boff's scared everyone, but thinking about it, is that the only piece of evidence we have? It's one build...
     
  16. badger5

    badger5 Club GTI Sponsor and Supporter Trader

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    mine revved to 8200rpm for many miles no problem, and revs to 9000rpm now
    no internal trigger wheel issues

    Fluid Damper is strongly advised... FFS dont run a non damper crank pulley ever!
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  17. danster Forum Addict

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    It is true that the trigger wheel does not seem to be a common problem. Maybe it is down to being refitted, bashed or dropped, wrong bolt torque (too tight might start a crack as they are taper seat bolts), no thread locking agent, etc.
    If it did fail though it is pretty catastrophic.


    The fact that this engine does allegedly have 2.0 crank, the flywheels fall apart and it has done a crankshaft damper would suggest it may be worth investigating why?
    Suspect there is some harmonic / balance issue.
    It could be the flywheels are crap and the damper was falling to bits anyway who knows.

    Cannot see how the little spreader plates absence would prevent the flywheel problems but if whoever built the engine left that off would you trust what else they had done.
    Careful work prevents costly errors.
    Not having a go by the way! Just trying to help:)
     
  18. coupechamp Forum Member

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    at the moment it's a stripped down version of what looks like a basic ECU, it was done by VW Racing in South Africa and came with the car. Been looking at changing it for ages, but other things have always taken priority. It now has a Superchips chip in it. The figures are good i suppose for what it is, 209Bhp N/A and 242Nm at 5250rpm. Ideally looking to control what we have rather than make massive hp, over the 210hp i have to start chucking more weight on it. So if it was to stay at or around the present mark but with a bit more go in it it would be ideal. Bill do you do the fluid dampers? would be interested in one.
     
  19. coupechamp Forum Member

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    i appreciate evryones input, what ever they say, it's all about learning. The 1st flywheel was sent back to America for inspection as it looked very suspect where the teeth had broken, the metal looked very brittle, they said it was ok and just one of those things, possible i suppose as the day it went we where having problems of all sorts and previously a flywheel had welded itself to the crank, when removing this (2hrs) the end of the crank took a bashing, so possibly the flywheel was not 100% seated right!! maybe causing the starter motor to have issues, then i think it lost a tooth then every time we tried there after (just before a race) it lost a few more. This was the day the timing chain jumped and the exhaust cam rotated!! luckily without any damage. Hense the new engine got built up.
     
  20. danster Forum Addict

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    If it is already at 209 bhp and if you go more than 210 you need to add weight. Is it worth getting different cams for 0.9 of a horsepower!;)
    Spending the money on a mappable ecu will hopefully optimise and improve what you have got already.
    So what are the current cams?
    If it its managing those figuires on std ADR na cams that is very interesting.

    EDIT. Ahh, i wished you had said that earlier!
    The end of the crank and the flywheel surface that clamps onto the crank need to be perfectly flat as this along with the bolts clamping force is what holds it tight. You can get a special shim from Rosten Performance that is diamond impregnated to assist with this or you could just get it dowelled.
    Sounds like there may be some damage to the end of the crank now though.
     
    Last edited: Dec 16, 2009

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