I'm Looking to convert my 16v engine to use individual coil packs 20v ones ... does anyone know how do this... My car curently runs aftermarket management so I think I have means of controlling them What I'm unsure is if I'm able to control the coil pack sparks from the dizzy or do i need to install a crank sensor as I i dont run one on my current setup. Thank for help in advance
my advise is dont. 20vt coilpacks are notoruisly unreliable. go seperate coilpack and leads so coil unit is away from the heat/vibration usually crank trigger and aftermarket ecu to drive coilpack. (wasted spark)
It depends on what management system you are using. A lot of the expensive ones are capable of doing it. But why do you want to do it?
Why VW COPs? Make sense if you bought an engine complete and want to use all the OEM hardware to lower costs. But as Badger 5 says these 1.8T jobbies are crap! If you must run wasted spark you can use a late zetec or 106 4 pole coil pack.
Split: Fitting RS4 coil packs to a 16v cam cover Split from here Front injectors just some small Ford 150 CC jobbies then at the moment some 440CC's directly down the velocity stacks.
Can I be cheeky and ask which coil packs they are? V8 RS4? I have tried 1.8T, which will fit..but aren't perfect. Something else on the back burner...
The 2.7T, 1.8T coil packs need a bit of modification on either cover or coilpack to fit 16v valve covers. Mars_rot 16v modded his covers to get them to fit properly. Here is the post. http://www.clubgti.co.uk/forum/showpost.php?p=1823862&postcount=37
Care to ellaborate on the fitting issues? 1.8T will go, if you machine off the raised lip round the plug lead holes, and trim off most of the rubber sealing 'bits'. Are the RS4 coil packs the same? I have 6 1.8T colipacks and a full coil pack loom in my toolbox you see...I have been working on that project on and off for a while now.
I should have read further... He's done the same as me then...mill it flat and the heights tie up. The 1.8T coil packs fit, with much of the rubber sealing webbing cut back.
Yeah. Look good but carry a robustness penalty due the soldered junctions in coil pack. They come away when the valve cover heats up to over 150 deg C. 4 pole coil pack is more robust.
cheers ED............Tho nothing a grinder and milling machine cant fix im sure Maybe I can just modify the standard cover.....Its not that important really just asthetics. Each hole had to be opened out without breaking into where the cams and oil are. Then each coilpack had to be modified as the holes still arent big enough. When the coils are pushed down they appeared to be firmly in place but i realised they werent clicking down so i had to machine each of the top circles even lower. The final thing I need to do is add a bracket across the top of all 4 as these coils are notorious for popping off the plug even on 1.8T's from what ive been reading. I chose the RS4's as I havent heard anyone have any issues with them like the 1.8T units. (I purchased and modified 2 spare units just incase )
i have done quite the reverse and binned the appallingly unreliable 1.8t coil packs and gone for zetec dual coil pack and leads - far more reliable
the cause of this is the rubber ribs form such a good seal, they trap air under them, which when the motor gets hot, expands and the piston effect pushes them out. fixed on 1.8ts by cutting a slice out of the ribs so they have an air gap. probably not possible on yours as they look muchos tight in the 16v rocker
I hear you... The reason the set-up currently is built for a Zetec coil pack, is that Dave Walker commented: "Why on earth do you want to remove a Zetec coil pack and replace it with utterly unreliable VAG 1.8T individual coils?" Nuff said really.
Which 4 pole type are you referring to Eddie? Ford Zetec type? Aren't there both 3 and 4 pin 1.8T types? Any difference between those, just out of interest?
Ford Foucs/Fiesta 4 pole thing as per Dave Walker and Bill B. 16v type leads fit the coil towers. On 20v COP 4 pin jobs are found on later post 99 stuff and have their own ignition drivers. 3 pin jobs found on AEB and AGU lumps seems to be driven by ECU ignitor.
That's what I have planned. I have a box full of them obtained from the local scrappies. Bound to be one or two that work!