DIY Tubular T3 Manifold, Top Mount Turbo (PIC HEAVY!) NOW RUNNING

Discussion in 'Turbocharged, Supercharged or Nitrous !' started by sambo, Feb 12, 2011.

  1. sambo Paid Member Paid Member

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    Ok been a long while since i planed to start making this so here it is

    It may be usefull help to folks who also wants to give it a go and make their own manifold

    So step one will be buying or having made all the flanges you will need for your application as well as mandrell bent fittings

    For flanges i am using 10mm thick stainless steel laser cut for precise fit 316 grade

    Fittings are 1.5" Sh40 so quite thick side wall and perfect I.D. of around 41mm which matches my ports perfectly

    Flanges came from Ebay apart from main Cylinder head flange which i got from Andy Waite (Ak Bodycraft) white mk1 4wd owner, as he had one spare

    All bends came from firm in Blackburn called Eurostainless

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    So i started with making a collector first, with a little help from my mate who is a fabricator and has band saw which helps with cutting stainless tube

    Sorry no pics taken during making of collector but you get the idea


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    With engine in place its wise to check carefully where abouts you want the turbo to sit as its critical for making sure everything will have space to run like downpipe, wastegate, screemer pipe etc

    Once you happy with placement of turbo its time to fix collector temporarily where it will need to be so pipes can be made, as in pics above

    Next step is playing about with fittings to create individual runners

    You will need to be carefull here to make sure there will be no clashing and that you can get to all joints for welding

    For today i got as far as placing and temp fixing collector where it needs to be and making runner number 1, TBC tomorrow:)


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    Last edited: Mar 20, 2011
  2. skoda4x4 Forum Member

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    Looking good so far sam, ill be following this with interest !
     
  3. sambo Paid Member Paid Member

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    :thumbup::)
     
  4. benny Forum Member

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    Nice one Sam! Thanks for putting this up :thumbup:

    I was just on the Eurostainless website the other night ;)

    Keep us updated dude!
     
  5. m1keh Forum Member

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    How do costs for all the pipes and flanges add up compared to buying a built mani?
     
  6. sambo Paid Member Paid Member

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    I'v spent circa 170ish i think so it will work out hell of alot cheaper and this way i can make it custom fit. Will consider having it ceramic coated once its all made and tested/proven to work and perfect fit
     
  7. Trev16v

    Trev16v Paid Member Paid Member

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    I've just invested in a TIG machine with the intention of building a manifold, so I'm grateful for this thread and will follow with great interest.
     
  8. m1keh Forum Member

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    Definitely worth diying if you can then :thumbup:
     
  9. alexisblades99 Forum Member

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    Thanks for putting this up Sambo. Do those pipe sections come pre-chamfered for good welding penetration, or did you have to do it yourself?
     
  10. Toyotec

    Toyotec CGTI Committee - Happy helper at large Admin

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    Those pipes are 'butt' weld ends and come like that.
     
  11. Toyotec

    Toyotec CGTI Committee - Happy helper at large Admin

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    Great work Sam.
     
  12. 1.8T_mk2

    1.8T_mk2 Paid Member Paid Member

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    Good stuff, looking good so far! :thumbup:


    What make / model did you go for?
     
  13. sambo Paid Member Paid Member

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    Thanks for great coments lads, good to know few will benefit from the thread

    So today was a good day i am pleased with the outcome [:D]

    Gota bad case of weld burnt face tho but its not the first time, and cheaper then sunbed i guess lol

    On with pics and tips now. Tools wise today me n Bob have used

    Angle grinder with 1mm cutting discs, Inox (Stainless steel) one and grinding disc

    Air Die grinder with Carbide Steel rotary Burr bit for deburring after cutting tube

    Grips (Pliers) for holding fittings together during tack welding

    Mig welder with stainless wire, obviously Tig would of been better but hey Mig did the job


    Started with making runner number 4


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    On with runner number 3, here i needed to extend couple of 90deg bends so vice and thin cutting disc came in handy, steady hand required!


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    Then on with runner number 2


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    Trying the turbo on making sure it is still where i want it to be


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    Trying how downpipe will look like


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    There you go, all in one piece now, removed from spare head and will be trial fitted to engine in place to tripple check all clearances are still good and to decide on final placement of Tail gate and route downpipe and screemer pipe will take

    then off again for Tig welding and blasting/cleaning before final fittment


    As it looks away from head


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  14. sambo Paid Member Paid Member

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    Just to add word of warning, use a guard on your angle grinder, dont be Ding bat like me as today i nearly ended up with ruined gentlemens area as the disc broke and shrapnel was everywhere!
     
  15. jettadan Forum Member

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    Thought you didn't bother with all that H&S namby pamby rubbish Sam......;):lol:
     
  16. benny Forum Member

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    Looks crackin' does that mate! You make it look easy :thumbup:
     
  17. tshirt2k

    tshirt2k Forum Junkie

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    Good work. Is it going to be TIG'd or MIG'd to finish it off?
     
  18. badger5

    badger5 Club GTI Sponsor and Supporter Trader

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    you know this, but I will say it anyhows just in case,
    If TIGing, you will be back purging it yea? and also, the head flange, must be bolted to a flat strong surface to keep it flat as it will want to distort like a mofo otherwise.

    head flange looks familiar.. Its one of mine :p
     
  19. sambo Paid Member Paid Member

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    Deffo Tig-ed as i need welds to fully penetrate thick tube walls for max strength, dont think Mig is man enough and Tig is alot tidier
     
  20. sambo Paid Member Paid Member

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    Yep Bill flange came from you i beleive, if and when you getting a batch going again i will be deffo having few if you dont mind, this one is first class

    And yes i am aware of warping issues thats why i will have flange end welds done last whilst bolted to the head as much as possible and whole lot will be back purged

    Runners one and four can be welded nearly fully in place as they are

    Runners two and three will be welded in place as much as possible to make sure they dont distort as they will have to be removed for welding hard to get to places near runners one and four

    Then put back on for final welding of all remainig sections

    I was led to believe when welding stainless manifolds its very important to take your time and do it bit by bit to allow cooling, it certantly cant be rushed or it will be well twisted!
     

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