Hi there, my recently bought '95 mk3 8 valver works well except for a rev limit of around 5000 rpm. I've seen a couple of other posts on this subject in the archives, but no-one has posted an outcome to their problem. Anyone experienced and cured this, and how? Cheers. [:^(]
Hi, This may seem far fetched, but my mate had a VR6, lost all power, (Not exactly limited) But it would sit in second gear at 55mph and 5000ish revs, wouldn't budge! Turned out to be the Catalitic Converter? Somehow (The garage suggested Coolant, due to a recent head gasket faliure) "Melting" the inside of the Cat. Clogging it up, looked like dried lava from a volcano inside!! Don't know if anyone else has heard of this happening!?!?!?!
my brother in law just had a similar prob on his ford mondeo , like matting said it was the cat. Modern technology eh aint it great remove it and see how it revs
I've got exactly the same problem with my Mk III Golf GTI 8v (1998). I'd luv hear a solution for this, I was going to have a look at this problem soon but at the moment im replacing the brake pads/disc's and bearings then Im going to tackle a really anoying rattle coming from the heat sheild. Although VW said I needed to replace the downpipe to fix the rattle Im not sure I need to do some more poking around to find the exact source of the noise. Anyway if you manage to fix it please post a reply, if I get mine sorted before hand I'll do the same. Cheers, Gazz.
May be a different path but a mate o mine had a mk4 with simliar probs ...last service didnt do an engine flush , so he got another garage to do it ....result ! now revs as far as he likes it
Just wondering lets say it is my cat thats gone so I need a new one. What else would be affected by this ?? MPG ?? Emmissons ?? Cheers, Gazz
Hi Gazz, not sorted it yet, but I have had the ECU checked and it's fine, no fault codes. LocalVW specialisthas had some experience with this type of fault and reckons it may be the airflow meter (just up from the air filter). I'm going to see about changing this shortly. If the cats knack'dthe emissions would be well out, and I reckon the fuel consumption would suffer too. Mine's returning an average of 30mpg, a bit better on steady motorway stuff. Any news I'll post it here. Hope it's an easy fix, Cheers!
Thanks for the info Blue. I had my car in for an MOT the other day and its passed everything. Anyway I asked the mechanic guy about the problem I had and if it could be the cat, and like you said if there had been a problem with it then it would of shown up on the emissions test which passed with flying colours. My MPG is also good at about 32 - 35 MPG. He said its more likely going to been an engine sensor. I've had the engine speed sensor changed about 4 months ago so I know thats good and Im glad to hear the ecu on yours is ok aswell. Im thinking of investing in the VAG COM kit from RossTech which should hopefully point me in the right direction. I hope it isn't the MAF because aren't these expensive? Cheers, Gazz
Have you checked that the accelerator cable is opening throttle fully ? Try to see if you can open it by hand to acheive max revs.
Thanks for the info Dave will have a quick look. Ive gone ahead and ordered VAG-COM now, shipping from the US so if its a sensor fault then this should pick it up Gazz
Well the VAG-COM cable arrived today and picked up a fault with the Camshaft Position Sensor (Hall Sensor). "00515 - Camshaft Position (Hall) Sensor (G40)" "16-10 - Signal Outside Specifications - Intermittent" I cleared the Fault codes first to make sure it wasn't an old fault, which it wasn't. I got access to the Bentley Service Manual for my car and it describes how to go though and test the Camshaft sensor as I may need to replace the "Replace distributor with Camshaft Position" or "Replace Motronic Engine Control Module" I'll test it this weekend and let you know what I find. Cheers, Gazz.
if your car is 96 gti then it has Simens Simos rather than Borsch Digifant, whether your engin code of AGG or ADY.Simos dizzy has only ONE opening on the trigger wheel. TO Bring the Hall sender unit G40 back inside the tolerance, you must use VAG.com cuz the timing is controlled by ECU. To do that go to 01 engin then measuring block go 07 then loose the mounting bolt of the dizzy then turn it anti or clockwise until it gets inside the range. 7,0,Hall Sender DataADY, AGG, AKR 7,1,Hall - Engine Senders,57...60 or 1.0 7,2,Hall - Engine Senders,5...8 7,3,Altitude Correction,0.85 ... 1.15 7,4,Operating Cond.,Throttle 00000000
Well I had a quick play on the weekend and found that the ECM was ok as I had about 11volts on the outer pins of the 3 pin connector going to the distributor. But to check the control module wiring harness I need "V.A.G1594 connector test kit" Im guessing I can't buy this anywhere ? Is it possible to check the actual CMP sensor for faults? Is it basically 2 coils between pin 1 - 2 & 2 - 3 ? If not does somebody have a breif explaination of how it works ? One thing which I forgot to mention was that I had the timming belt change 120,000 mile service. This was done by VW themselfs but at the same time they changed the engine speed sensor as this was showing up as being faulty on the VW diag's. Since I got VAG-COM I noticed that the old code was there for the engine speed sensor as well as the code for the CMP sensor was there so I cleared the Engine speed sensor fault. I thought if they CMP sensor was faulty before they changed the timming belt it would of shown up which makes me think maybe they haven't done the timming correctly which is why its showing this fault ? Panda, Can you elaborate on your instructions for bringing the hall sender unit back inside tolerance. I understand the first bit about loosing the mounting bolt and turning it until it gets in range but whats the other information about Altitude Correction, engines senders and throttle ?? Thanks for any help. Gazz.
Well, I have to now admit I haven't got to the bottom of this - I don't rev the wee bugger that hard, and use the torque most of the time. It's just passed it's MOT again so I'm sure the CAT is fine. If any of the guys who looked at this thread last year got a result, it'd be great to know. I will be looking for a solution soon, as I'm keeping mine for a while yet. Thanks to all who've replied.
Panda house has the correct repair. I suggest you take it back to the dealer who changed your cam belt. They failed to set the ignition timing correctly after the cam belt change. Have them set the timing as Panda suggests.
I had this problem with my car, the revs bounced off the limiter at 5000rpm. Annoying as hell it was, the car ran nice and smooth, and, cos it was like it when i got it, i thought it was ok. Turned out that the cam belt had been replaced by a cow boy and that it was two teeth out. I had the timing sorted, and it drove like a new car, more responsive and a bit more economical. If i were you, i'd check the timing was correct!!! Good luck!
Sorted Just to let anyone who is searching the archives know that this was finally traced to a cambelt that'd been fitted two teeth out, and at the same time the Hall Sensor fitted as part of the distributor on the MK3 was also faulty. Once fixed it went like a new car. If you discover these symptoms on yours, with the ECU cutting the ignition, have a look at the timing belt (cam belt) and the Hall sensor. Cheers All.
