Fair enough, there doesn't seem to be many people using these and the guys on vortex seem to have had issues with deciding if its VR or Hall, looks like they settled on Hall. BTW it doesn't need an expensive tool to fit it, that turned out to be incorrect info in the Vortex thread. The orange plastic tab in the above pic is the tool which aligns it and its then pressed onto the crank with the engine at TDC.
Fair enough disregard my above. I remember reading the vortex thread years ago and the tool was mentioned. I would worry about high revs with one and the location if you need to get to it. Other than that it is a great solution, very neat and good for rallying as it is fully enclosed.
So removing the screws and timing wheel was not looking like an easy job in situ but I thought I'd give it a go anyway. Looks tight: So special tool part number :GSK0005637 was employed. It comprises of a tork bit and a 6mm spanner hammered together It worked allowing all the screws to be removed. Then came the difficult job of removing the wheel. I just used the following tools to cut, bend and prise the wheel out. And here is the wheel out forever! I didn't even have to take the main bearing cap off either. Just gotta source the parts to setup the external wheel. The old sensor made a good bung to block the old hole too. Gurds
You were luck there Gurds, when I was researching last years engine build I was told on a number of occasions DON'T use the std timing wheel, that said I was also told if you mount the trigger wheel on the outer side of the anti vibration mount on the bottom pulley the engine will explode plus the trigger wheel will move about and the sensor will never get a stable figure. As you can tell I agreed with the first suggestion but not the other two!! I regularly run well over 8k with no problems so I'm happy to recommend the design in the pic below. I'm sure you've seen plenty of ideas for mounting but this is the simplest in my book. The bracket picks up from the two spare bolt holes in the block, slot the top one to allow the distance from the sensor to the wheel to be adjusted with a feeler gauge. drill a big mount hole for the sensor and a small threaded hole for the mounting bolt. The sensor I used was a std VW MK4 2.0 ltr Beetle crossflow one just because I had an engine sitting here. The trigger wheel came from triggerwheels.com (I think) and the bottom pulley already had the rebate machined in so I simply got the centre of the trigger wheel machined out to a tight fit and drilled and tapped it to take the mounting bolts. It was a tight fit as I wanted to use the lightest mounting bolts I could as the trigger wheel added a bit of weight and I'm sure it does affect the balance etc but obviously not enough to affect anything. The only issue is I think you have to remove the water pump drive pulley to change the alternator belt but I can live with that. Anyway hope it is of some help.
That's basically the same as mine, although mine was welded to the PAS pulley, and then the whole rotating assembly (crank, pulleys, clutch, etc) was balanced.
Bro, finally joined the forum! Was lovely to meet you yday, thanks for the 10mm.. Ive got to say, I couldnt stop admiring the red Monster... I cant wait to find one and join the club!! Your Trigger wheel looked alittle worse for wear Hopefully will get a chance to learn a thing or two from you! see you soon, Sahib
Ouch! Atleast you can sort it out over the winter. For reference halfords include bits with their ratchet spanner set which is the equivelant of special tool part number :GSK0005637 a little bit fits into the 10mm ratchet which accepts the little torx bits etc..
No Problem Sahib. Nice to meet you too. There is a lot of knowledge on this forum from all the members on here not just me. . Gurds
You're welcome to borrow mine if the special tool should fail on you although I'm sure it wouldnt as its 'special' and has its own special number too
Actually Sparrow, thats not a bad idea at all. The PAS pulley can still be bolted in even if it's not running. That provides secure location onto the crank. Nice one. Gurds
Just a thought but Bill used to sell this type of trigger wheel and a mounting boss with his DTH throttle body kits. Then all you need to do is make a bracket to hold the speed sensor.