i have sused that i need three of p/n 049919501 but the forth one with i take is the thermal time switch it is not very clear witch one to use cheers mushy
043 906 163 A - 65.06+VAT any MK1/MK2/Corrado/Scirooco etc 8v k-jet and 16v kr one will do you though
WHAT!!!!!!!! i paid less for a full engine think next time im at the scrappy i will be grabbing a few
yeah is a bit steep! luckily tho they dsont seem to break my small pile of thermoswitches all seem to work ok
how do you do that,ive tried a couple of things with one off the car to no avail but would be intresting to know how you do thest these,especially at that price,not something you wanna replace unless your certain its not working
besicalleh, you check the green/white wire pin is earthed when engine cold, and isnt earthed when engine warms up. the red/black wire should be live when the engine is cranking
I did try but it didnt seem to work right, or all of em were busted, but they worked ok on the car My theory was maybe it only works when voltage is applied to the red/black wire? Didn't really mess with it as the one on the car seemed to work I soon lost interest In theory you put 1 pin of multimeter on the white/green wire pin, and the other on the body of the sensor. should get continuity when cold, then after stuffing it in boiling water for a bit it should go open circuit.
i see ,i put mine in a pan of water and warmed it up on the cooker and checked the resistance between the pins sheer bordem and 3 litres of cider,lost the results too [:^(] one other thing the test you said in the other post is that with the plug attatched to the valve or disconnected
i think the best test would be to check across the 5th injector pins, should see 12v when cranking from cold, and nothing when hot/warm. check the red/black wire on the thermoswitch with the plug off, as i say should see 12v when cranking regardless of temperature. The red/black wire is for a heater inside the switch, so if you crank it over for ages on starter with no fire it eventually opens the thermoswitch and stops the 5th injector floodin the engine
with the coolent below 30 C put a bulb across the termals for the cold start valve it all so said to bridge the ignition but you dont need to do that then start the car it is best to test it when the car has been left over night the bulb should light then go out after a few seconds say 3 to 6
I'm getting 5.5ish volts across the 5th injector plug pins when starting from cold, swapped a new CSV in and have cleaned both it and ISV in petrol. checked spade connectors on starter. any ideas why cold start problems exist?
check betyween the black wire and earth, if still 5.5v then the wire or starter spade is at fault check the connections are all clean etc. if 12v then check the green/white wire between it and the thermoswitch, and check between the pin on the thermoswitch and earth for high resistance. main thign to look at for earth troubles is the gearbox earth, everythign on the engien has to earth via this so if its bad all your engine earths will be affected
