How to Meqasquirt your ABF engine

Discussion in 'Throttle bodies & non-OEM ECUs' started by Toyotec, Oct 20, 2007.

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  1. Toyotec

    Toyotec CGTI Committee - Happy helper at large Admin

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    ABF on Megasquirt.

    This is my favorite ABF into Golf 2 combinations. This version supersedes both Kjet and digifant versions for performance and feel. As you have brought adjustability into the picture for all RPMs and Load sites. So you can now access the Digifant's low down response and the K jets train like torque curve post 4000rpm with interest!

    This form of engine control can be used on cars that were originally 16v or 8v. The ABF engine used will have to have all EFI related equipment which are CLT, IAT, TPS, RPM trigger which can be either a 16v KR/9A dizzy or the ABFs Crank angle sensor, Injectors, and either the MK2 TCH-i and coil or a MK3 one.

    You can also apply the method here to any 16v engine if you source the above components.

    The car used for this exercise was eatonsMK2 or N7NDOs daily driver 8v PB GTi.

    Car: 1990 H plate GTi 8v.
    [​IMG]

    Find a suitable engine or doner. In this example a Seat Toledo vehicle was the doner.
    [​IMG]

    As before like for Dav's conversion.
    Remove engine
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Only remove engine bay part of digifant2 harness. You do not have to remove the brake servo for this. On post 90 vehicles you should end up with a loom with the fusebox ternimals as seen ,left, in the picture below.
    [​IMG]
    Typical complete ECU removed with engine control harness only
    [​IMG]
    Prep ABF engine with new belts etc.
    [​IMG]
    Install to car on original mounts, gearbox etc.

    Build megasquirt or purchase a rebuilt one already configured for your desired trigger input.
    this car used a KR dizzy. Others have used the 60-2 hall pickup and either single coil or wasted spark set-ups.

    Configure round ABF 28pin engine connector under inlet plenum. Make Megasquirt harness to fit this connector using pigtails,
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    Connectors can be bought from VW dealers or picked up in breakers.

    As said before you can choose to trigger the VW igniter and leave coil wiring in place.
    Procedure to do this is seen here in the for the 3A 8v thread which gives the sources for 12v power, relay energizing pionts and grounds.

    With MS connected electrically connect the load sensing line on the same outlet as per digifant 3
    [​IMG]
    Blank off the canister purge intake.
    [​IMG]

    Start engine. Begin calibration.
    [​IMG]

    Validate

    Job done.
    [​IMG]


    Toyotec 18/07/08
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jan 24, 2018
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  2. ripskin Forum Member

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    toyotec u are a legend in your own lunchtine;) very useful guide you make it look easy
     
  3. moretorque Forum Member

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    do you guys prefer to time from the abf missing tooth wheel,or did u just use the hall sensor in the dizzy?
     
  4. Toyotec

    Toyotec CGTI Committee - Happy helper at large Admin

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    It depends on what hardware the vehicle comes with. When the Black Mk2 was done we had a few 4 window hall dizzies. So rather than obtaining the 4 pole coil pack, the MS was just configured to suit the hardware that existed on the car and engine. It still runs this setup in supercharged tune. There are a few 16v projects that have been done, that use the crank trigger as the rpm trigger. From what I have seen, it cannot be determined if this system makes any noticeable difference to performance for these engines with a rev range between 1-7.5K. Does involve a bit more components to be installed to the PCM so more work for the ECU builder and of course you have to add a 4 pole coil pack. Once the software is aware that you are running wasted then its the same procedure.
     
    Last edited: Feb 8, 2009
  5. Toyotec

    Toyotec CGTI Committee - Happy helper at large Admin

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    How to integrate Megasquirt to your ABF 16v engine 02/11/09, inc T28a pin to MS pdf.

    ***Please note as of 02-11-09 23:45 that this doc is still being edited***

    How to integrate Megasquirt to your ABF powered MK1-3


    Background

    We know that VW 16v ABF engines are free revving devices that power many a VW/Seat product with a fairly entertaining drive feel. This characteristic carries on even when Turbo'd or Supercharged.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    These engines when transplanted in a MK1 or MK2 Golf in N/A form can make a sub 1050 kg vehicle come very much alive and keep up with modern machinery such as your Type R Civic or even some large engine BMWs. Heck if you have a std 1.8T (150ps) or VR6'd( on STD FD) MK2 you too can even get owned! From past projects installing an ABF engine as a K-jet controlled or Digifant 3.x controlled does have benefits and well as small disadvantages. As the benefits between the two systems differ between 3500-4000rpm and 5500-6500rpm a method to combine these two conditions needs to be acquired to have the best engine control calibration with he broadest torque spread. In my experience I have found Digifant cars to have very strong acceleration from lower revs to 4000rpm and a bit out of puff at 6000rpm, when compared to K-jet vehicles after fettling that seem to be happy from 5500 to 6500. To combine both conditions on the same engine a programmable control system is required to deliver the target of broadest torque spread. Make no mistake though. If you are updating from a STD to STDish 16v or an 8v motor (even if 2.0), the stock ABF motor is big difference in drive feel period! We in this doc we are attempting to bring out the best drive feel from STD components

    Systems from, Omex, DTA fast, Emerald, Haltec, AEM and Motec all spring to mind and can all do the job very well. Even the STD stuff can be recalibrated to deliver some of the target. Usually all the above has some considerable cost associated even for the able DIYer.
    As the requirement here is to obtain a broad torque spread with average fuel economy in part load, a cheaper solution can be used in order to deliver the objectives.
    That system is Bruce Bowling and Al Grippo's Megasquirt DIY system. And if you are confident enough and have the knowledge as well as a good methodology, you can buy build, integrate and calibrate the device for yourself.

    Now for a disclaimer. This information is based on my own experience. I am not a novice and have experience in both electronics and engine calibration. These abilities a took a long time to acquire and refine. I have access to a dyno for developing WOT performance and perform considerable hours developing driveable road calibrations in vehicle as a hobby. Mapping takes time. A typical calibration with ISC active, decel fuel shut off, cold starting, lambda feedback for catalyst, tip-in, fuel economy, and full performance without overheating components takes time, even with basic Megasquirt. So even though I believe what is being shared as being correct, please use this information but at your own risk.
    This information relates to ABF N/A engines with STD VW hardware, manifolds, injectors sensors etc. Turbo and compressor modded motors are similar in principle but hardware maybe non std in spec and function (injectors or AGU throttle body etc).

    Aims

    To calibrate broader torque spread on a VW ABF code engine.
    To calibrate user defined part load range for fuel economy.
    To calibrate to allow the passing of legal UK MOT.
    To retain all most or all functions of engine controller that is being replace.
    To allow user access of fuel, spark and "extra" calibratables.
    To keep cost per gain/function low.
    Enhance understanding of engine controls and the process of delivering and engine calibration to user requirements.

    Where to start.

    For ABF engine hardware in a MK1, MK2 or even MK3 based VAG car, you want to use the MS1 kit with Ver 3 PCB. This unit when built will have more than enough functionality to run the engine properly especially on a MK2 or Mk1. MK3 are a bit more tricky and require catalyst to function to meet MOT emissions. You will require an 'extra mod' to use low amplified tach output for MK3 cluster. Is very do-able though.

    You must be able to solder.
    Here are some of the tools that are used to build the unit.
    15w soldering iron
    [​IMG]
    Solder sucker
    [​IMG]
    1mm Solder (PB free)
    [​IMG]
    STIM (JSTIM in my case)
    [​IMG]
    3rd hand
    [​IMG]
    Heat shrink
    [​IMG]
    Blow torch
    [​IMG]
    PCB cleaner
    [​IMG]


    Engine


    Make sure that the engine is in good serviceable condition.
    Ensure that the EFI equipment is installed.
    By EFI equipment I mean;
    Soleniod injectors and 5 pin jack (ABFs run sequential injection and 4 separate inj channels with a 12v power from fuel pump output)
    [​IMG]

    Optional 2 pin ISCV ( idle speed control valve).
    [​IMG]

    4 pole coil pack if running wasted spark
    Single OE coil and ignition amplifier

    2 pin coolant temp sensor (white)
    [​IMG]
    3 pin cranksensor (Hall) or optional 4 window dizzy from KR/9A engine.
    2 pin Bosch inlet air temperature sensor in air duct post air box ( can use any Bosch IAT sensor if your box is custom).
    [​IMG]
    3 pin OE Throttle sensor
    [​IMG]
    Optional knock sensor
    Optional OE lambda sensor ( 2 step HEGO)
    Optional Planer lambda sensor ( linear, wideband UHEGO for mapping).

    Engine Controller ECM/ECU/PCM

    Ok we have the engine ready now for the electronic controller.
    Buy the controller from this vendor.

    DIYAutoTune.

    You can also try Bill Shurvinton or Phil Ringwood for kits. They have contributed significantly in the development of the 'extra' code.
    They can be found on the MSx/Extra EFI forum.

    You will need the MS1 ver3 unit. If you are going to run with wasted spark, then order with the ignition driver option. I would buy a spare unit just in case you get the inverted instructions wrong on cranking but more on that later.
    You will need the Rodney AutoSport labelled wiring loom with your order.
    It is highly advised to buy the basic stim kit to power up the device and debug before running to on the engine.
    So your order will be;
    1 MS1 Ver 3 PCB kit
    1 RS AutoSport labelled loom
    1 or 2 ignition driver option kit (includes mica insulator, and 330 Ohm resistor)
    • If reusing the ISCV you need a TIP120-122 Transistor in a TO220 package.
    Stim kit.
    Shipping options are up to you but I tend to go for the 3-5 day option that can take up to 2weeks once the RS AutoSport is not in stock. It costs approx 25-30 pounds to clear Parcel Force when the letter comes in the post, or you can just follow the tracking number to see when it turns up at your local depot.

    Hopefully this draft will show how to go from bare PCB to fully operational unit.
    [​IMG]


    Building the device

    The ECU is now in hand as a BOM (bill of materials) along with the RS AutoSport loom.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Go to the MSEFI site for assembly instructions for MS1 or 2 on Ver 3 PCBs.
    The instructions are very clear so follow as described.
    Here are some highlights of various stages if the build.

    Bare PCB
    [​IMG]
    Steps 1-3 Board w/ DIP 28 socket and D37 and D15
    [​IMG]
    Steps 4 to 23 5V+UART
    [​IMG]
    Testing 5V supply to CPU socket
    [​IMG]
    Steps 24 to 41 Comms/Clock install and test
    [​IMG]
    Steps 42 to 55 Adding input circuit ( more on VW hall sensor later)
    [​IMG]
    Steps 56 to 80 Output stage added.
    [​IMG]

    There are a few alterations to the standard build specific to VW 16v ABF motors which I will digress into. Follow closely and your ECU hardware would be correctly matched to the engine.

    Trigger input, Tach to opto in mod to pull up to 5v
    Trigger output mods, IGBT ( BIP 373) mounting and output pins, TCI-h
    Tach input for MK3 or similar clusters requiring low amplified signal
    Rev counter input,, high amplified with MK2 clock and wasted spark coils.
    ISCV

    Trigger input

    Tachselect and opto isolator modifications

    For an ABF ECU you require the opto isolator circuit only. You can install the variable reluctance circuit as an option if you think the ECU will be used on another project with a VR trigger. To get the hall input circuit running properly follow the instructions in the manual from step 50a, i-viii.
    From OPTOIN, power with 5V from proto area (you can use 12V as well but I have been using 5Volts as it does the job and I would rather have 5Volts voltage regulator and low current running around my ECU than 12v from Terminal 15.
    Connect TACHSELECT to XG1.
    Connect TSEL to OPTOUT.
    [​IMG]

    Your hall circuit will now run with a 5v amplitude when high. ( You can always invert this relationship with Megatune software)

    Trigger output mods

    • IGBT
    The VB921 IGBT ceased production in 2005. The replacement is the Bosch BIP 373. Unlike the VB921,which would burn out once the max discharge current exceeded 10A the BIP373 would cut out if the discharge current exceeded its threshold of 12A. I have recently turned one of these IGBTs blue on a BMW M52 COP project and the most that happened was that the mica insulator was destroyed. The IGBT is still working.
    Typcial IGBT, VB921, in TO220 package
    [​IMG]

    If using wasted spark mount two of these units on the ECU case to give a good heat sink.
    [​IMG]

    Use with 330 Ohm resistors. Connect the 330 Ohm resistors to this side <pic> of R26 and R29. These are the outputs for spark A and B. On the other leg of the 330 Ohm resistor connect to the left pin (1) of the IGBT.
    Make a jumper <pic> from the GND on the proto area and use as a connection point for earth for right pin (3) of IGBT.
    The middle pin of the IGBT (pin 2) goes to pin 36 on PCB for Spark A and on the other IGBT, to spare 4.
    Note of caution, On the spares 1 to 4, the PCB track is quite fragile and it may be advised to run a piece of solder, the length of the track to increase current capability. Do it neat else the MAP sensor will not sit properly.
    On engines with just a single coil you can run just one IGBT and set the software in Distributor (MSnS) i.e G60 or Dizzy applications.
    Do not connect or use R43, or R57
     
    Last edited: Apr 17, 2011
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  6. Nige

    Nige Paid Member Paid Member

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    Awesome :clap:
     
  7. tshirt2k

    tshirt2k Forum Junkie

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    Lovely job

    I thought the hall sensor was 12v. According to autodata waveform data?

    plus i was told low to high!! hope its right.
     
    Last edited: Oct 18, 2009
  8. Toyotec

    Toyotec CGTI Committee - Happy helper at large Admin

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    You can use either 12V or 5V to power the Hall. I have been using 5V in my projects. This has nothing to do with the high low signal. Just the amplitude.
     
  9. Nige

    Nige Paid Member Paid Member

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    Eddie, can you also add to the `Building the device` section, how to build the kit for use with the EDIS coilpack instead of the dizzy please? [:D]
     
  10. Toyotec

    Toyotec CGTI Committee - Happy helper at large Admin

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    I would rather not call 4 pole coil packs "EDIS coilpack" more better as wasted spark. You can use coil packs from a range of FORD vehicles including older XR2/3i EDIS systems, once the leads can fit. The perferred option is the use the unit from newer Sigma engines found on the Focus/Fiesta 1.25 to 1.6, or the Duratec 2.0 as well as Peugeot or Reno systems. The 16v leads are a direct fit. I have not got to the adding in more to the device section. But will cover this.
     
    Last edited: Oct 18, 2009
  11. Nige

    Nige Paid Member Paid Member

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    You see, I didn`t know that [:D] thats why I`m following this thread with great interest, I`m hoping I can benefit from your experience / knowledge and end up with the best setup for my application :thumbup:
     
  12. bens_cab Forum Junkie

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    as eddie says i use a peugeot 106 coilpack with mk2 16v leads so many different types of pack out there were spoilt for choice:lol:
     
  13. tshirt2k

    tshirt2k Forum Junkie

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    Didn't know it could be powered with either. With regard to low and high. I meant whether the voltage was low when no tooth is infront of the sensor and high when sensor sees the leading edge of the tooth. Thats what Steve r advised.
     
  14. Toyotec

    Toyotec CGTI Committee - Happy helper at large Admin

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    There you go. Hope you learnt something new and the reasoning behind using voltage regulated 5Volts.

    Right. I actually did the calibration on Steve's vehicle. And he built the hardware (engine and ECU). The ECU is built very similar to what I am describing above except it uses 12 Volts as the amplitude for the hall high.
    As he runs wasted spark with internal VB921s on his set up, you have invert the signal to igniters effectively making a low signal high and so on. If you do not then you will blow up the IGBT. This is for all IGBT based MS including G60. This is setup in the software, and has no bearing on the hardware procedure that I am describing above.
     
    Last edited: Oct 18, 2009
  15. tshirt2k

    tshirt2k Forum Junkie

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    I assume then if you are triggering to the coiland distibutor it would be different to what i have built. I asked the question a while back as i didn't know what how the hall operated in the original setup. In this thread.

    http://www.clubgti.com/forum/showthread.php?t=188476&highlight=hall

    Mine is now jumpered from tachselect to xg1

    Interested to see tacho mod for clocks. Seen this on extra efi.
     
    Last edited: Oct 18, 2009
  16. tshirt2k

    tshirt2k Forum Junkie

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    Nice. I have fitted R37 and R38, Do they need to be removed? Do they need lnik as stated in the manual?
     
  17. Toyotec

    Toyotec CGTI Committee - Happy helper at large Admin

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    You can just leave them in like the VR circuit. This circuit is really for low impedance injectors.
     
  18. Brian.G

    Brian.G Forum Member

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    Because a lot of time and effort goes into a post like this I just want to say thanks for taking the time out to do it:thumbup:

    Brian.
     
  19. Toyotec

    Toyotec CGTI Committee - Happy helper at large Admin

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    Dont assume with me as I may just let you down. I do it on occasion too but assumption is the mother of all ****-ups :lol:

    Hall triggering (rpm sensor) is as described in this doc with the choice of 12v or 5v amplification on high low signal. Dizzy config is different if you are are outputing spark to coil/amplifier direct. Some software some ECU hardware. Dizzy config for amplified spark output to single coil from MS has changes in software.
     
  20. Toyotec

    Toyotec CGTI Committee - Happy helper at large Admin

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    More to come when I get the time.
     

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