I've just got a set of 4 (Well 6 but 2 are scrap) 16" BBS RX2's from a mk4. They need a refurb so where do I start? I've basically just got the wheels and an M8 12 point spline to unbolt them. Will soaking the bolts in WD40 overnight help them come out easier or are they sealed in?
A few things to consider: Soaking the bolts on RXIIs won't do any good - they are two piece and tapped into the alloy. Different design to RS/RMs. They'll be corroded in, so the best thing to do is get a nice new, well fitting M8 spline bit, socket and extension and give each bolt a damn good smack with a heavy hammer. Try to break the galvanic corrosion (titanium to aluminium...never great!) If they come out...super. If they break...not so super. Titanium isn't the nicest metal to drill into...so you are looking at TIGing an M8 SS nut on with the proper rod, or using a spart eroder to get them out. both, are a specialist fabrication company job. With the bolts out, you'll need to clean up the threads to get the corroded alloy and studlock off - get a M7 x 1.0 die. Polish the bolts up by holding them finger tight in a drill and spinning then in Scotchbrite pad with some Autosol on. Get a M7 x 1.0 tap too, and re-do the 16 tapped holes. Now, you don't want to get everything split, coated and re-built only to find one of the threads has pulled and needs Helicoiling...so do it when the rims are bare - before you get them re-furbed. Use a suitable spacer (M8 nut works a treat) and tighten each bolt down in turn, onto the M8 nut...those that pull and won't torque up, need Helicoiling. Buy a M7 x 1.0 Helicoil kit and repair them. There is bound to be at least one in each wheel. You need to do this before you rebuild and seal, as you'll not get the Helicoil drill/tools in afterwards. Seal using any old clear silicone sealant. A small bead on the furthest out part of the rim, where the centre drops in, and a bead on the inside, from behind. If you paint the centre/rim you should be OK. But powder coat and they won't go back together - the tolerance on RXIIS is pretty much nill - metal to metal on the innermost lip, so you'll just make it if they are painted. But powder coated will not go back together. Been there, done that. If you are powder coating and want the whole centre doing to avoid masking (and letting water in to corrode under the powder coat) then you'll need to have approx 0.5mm (0.3 to 0.7 depending on how tight a fit the centre is into the rim) RADIUS taken off the centre, on a lathe. This means finding a way to hold the centre whilst machining. As long as you consider all of the above...you'll be fine.
Thanks for the reply. I think i'd best start on the 2 scrap ones then. If all the bolts snap i'll probably try and do the others without splitting them
I had to use an impact gun to get the bolts out when i got my first set done. Never got round to doing my other pair 1990 so havn't got any photos.... going to wait till all the tyres need replacing and do it at the same time heres a pic of the mk4 rx II's i had done by spit and polish in tunbridge wells for 225 did a really good job. Make sure you don't laquer the rims... causes all sorts of problems. Polished finish looks the nuts
They look great!!! Did you snap any of the bolts? This is the look i'm after, but spaced out a bit and not as low:
my mate said the other day - take the tyre's off otherwise when you take the centre of the wheel off it might collapse on itself
He must have gone a bit mad with the stretch and put some 15's on them I just moved all mine and noticed I have 3 x 7" ones and 3 x 6.5" ones. I hope there are 2 decent ones of each.
you can have those 4x 6.5" ones in the picture if you like.... still in my shed. I got fussy and wanted 4x7" anni ones. think the 6.5's are et42 and the anni ones et43
I would but i'm on a budget. The ones I got were only 99 so i'm hoping it wont cost too much more with the DIY refurb.
I made a start today. First borrowed a M8 off Haysey and stuck it on a 60cm long 1/2 bar and set to work. The bolts came out easily and non broke which is a massive bonus!! They were soon all out I couldn't kick the middle out but a rubber mallet did it with a couple of smacks Then I went for a coffee and got 'Assistant No.3' to do the other The ones I split were a 6.5 and a 7 so hopefully they will all split as easy. They were the 2 worst and the 7's outer rim is now for the bin but the middle could be a spare. The 6.5 has a load of filler in it and I think thats for the bin as well. Is there anything I can soak the bolts in to clean them?
Not really.. Get hold of a M7 x 1.0 die and whizz them through that and they'll come up like new. The heads clean up with a Scotchbrite pad and some Autosol.
If you haven`t already, this would be ideal; http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=30641 Has the M7x1.0 tap you`ll need too.
is that your little girl? she has that whole 'cute but when you backs turned I'll be tearing the place up look' anyone know where you can get a 12 sided M8 from? Halfords dont sell it. Oh and did the wheel collapse on itself when you kicked the middle out? or did you drop some PSI out of the tyre to make sure
Yes (I hope) she's one of mine. Its more likely her brother that would accodentally whack me with the bar. You can buy a single one off e-bay or the laser kit from anywhere. Its best to borrow one though IMO. Can anyone lend me some silver alloy wheel paint?
OK, I did a bit on one of the rims today and its ready for primer/paint. I took all the flaky laquer off and got down to the metal but its left a bit of kerb rash. Whats the procedure now? I obviously need a bit of filler on the edge to cover the rash, could I use a filler primer of should I use a filler then primer? I want the finish to be totally weather resistant so whats the best primer for the bare metal? Cheers!!
Try Halford's Zinc Primer, About 7 a can, it also covers minor scratches and give a decent coat / coverage. I did a set of 4 13" Mk1 Gti Alloys for my GTD with 1 can.
Ive just split my 17 inch rx2`s.. dont need to touch the centres but thinking of powder coating the barrel... have you done this before...?
Many times... You *may* get a standard painted centre to fit back into a powder coated rim, but it would depend on how tight a fit it is now. If it slips in and out, no fuss, no friction, it will probably be fine. If you need to tap it out, it's unlikely to go back together once powder coated. It is possible to mask off the face where the centre sits into the rim, when powder coating the rim, but it'll leave an area of bare alloy which will need painting afterwards at the very least, and could allow corrosion to start underneath the powder coat. Or, you could just powder coat the rims, then with a flapper wheel in a drill / die grinder, remove the powder coat at the point it's stoping assembly, until you get them to go together. It's a slow process, and can again leave bare aluminium...but it's an option. Either way, you need to block the threaded holes when you have them powder coated. I use some M7 x 1 bolts I bought for the job...the powder coaters may use buts of sponge to fill the holes - and that's a whole world of hassle getting the threads cleaned up again after coating.
