Can any one give me any idea where to start looking as the girlfriends arora sport keeps putting the engine light on. back ground is: car had a raceland manifold on, which put the lambda probe in the wrong place so kept flagging the lamp up for proble slow to respond, and would every so often chuck a mixture too lean in to the pot for good measure, so junked the raceland and back on the oe manifold. all was well for about a month, no fault codes etc, but last week after about 500 miles it chucked up the light and said: 17559 - Long Term Fuel Trim Additive Air Bank 1: Range 1: System too Lean P1151 - 35-00 - - and there was also one about the EGR valve, cleared the faults and all was well, fast forward to today and I took the car to work, a 80 mile round trip, going all was fine, while at work I took the exhaust from the cat back off and resealed it as it was leaking where the cat joins the middle pipe, all was well car was turned on and off a few times to check for leaks etc, no fault, left work and was sat in slow traffic, got up to about 25mph after doing about 3 miles or so and notcied the light was on!! got home and just scanned it and found Control Module Part Number: 036 906 034 BA Component and/or Version: MARELLI 4LV 3410 Software Coding: 00011 Work Shop Code: WSC 06441 Additional Info: VSSZZZ6HZ3R007310 VWZ1Z0B2204321 1 Fault Found: 17559 - Long Term Fuel Trim Additive Air Bank 1: Range 1: System too Lean P1151 - 35-00 - - the only mod engine wise now on the car is the air box has been replaced by a CDA style system, with a sealed cone, this is still attahced to the oe inlet piping system so gets the hot / cold air feed it needs, and the oil breather is plumbed in, so any idea where to start looking? loose exhaust manifold??? (it doesnt sound as smooth since fitting the oe manifold but it is attached to a single box system with not much back pressure really as..2" bore all the way down, but the oe manifolds a nasty design for flow anyways) the egr valve seems ok, but I have noticed the little valve thing on the vac pipe has been better days, it appears the end cap is missing but when i checked on another sport it it was plumbed into anyting I dont thing, it was just a flat cap on the end... ,so belived to be fine (i might just order another to be safe anyways,.... no idea what it does though ) im tempted to put the oe airbox back on, as we brought the car with the cda on, but I cant see how that could effect things? I can log things with vag com if needed, anthing to stop this bloody light as it bugs the hell out of me! (pics of egr thing later on tonight)
map sensor, the stock inlet piping is the same bar the fact the airbox is now a sealed cone. the part on the egr valve is a filter, attached to vac hose, it would appear the end of the filter is missing, so a new one has been ordered
right been told - which I should have bloody realised! - that bank 1 is pre cat probe and bank 2 is post cat, so could well be the probes had enough....hope not but we will see
flagged it up again last night! Im pretty sure its not running lean as the tail pipes black and it goes like stink, but I am lothed to pay 90 for a probe! anthig else I should look at first before I cough up?
Both my friend`s ex`s Arosa, and the GF`s Lupo randomly throw this code. Light stays on for a few days then goes out again for weeks/months at a time. Neither of them run any different or experience any problems. Given the cost of Lambda probes they`re happy to ignore it...
I suspect the same will happen with Mels, it seems to make no odds to how it runs! goes like stink when you need it too, good to know im not the only one with it,
right I have been doing a little more digging on this as it was bugging me.. I was advised it was prob the throttle body being a bit gummed up, and to remove it and give it a damn good clean. low and be hold, when it was removed there was a little brown oil on the top face and thick black pap on the bottom! after a houses cleaning with rags, brake cleaner and tar remover it was nice and shiney again, then popped it back on reset the throttle position with vag com and job done. it seems to be all well after 2 days and its idiling better too, so fingers crossed
Read somewhere that before replacing a probe they recommended simply just cleaning the probe with carb cleaner or something, just incase it's just a matter of the probe being covered in too much dirt over the years its not giving accurate readings. But that's coming of a forum thread I read a while back!
thats another plan, but im hoping the throttle clean will have worked as it was well gummed up with sticky stuff alround the edge of the butterfly too!
some more info on this.... its still flagging the code up, when the throttle was removed and cleaned I put the OE air box back on to rule that one out, it lasted a few days and then flagged the code. I dont think its the probe as thats saying its running lean, and this was confirmed at the MOT when the probe up the exhaust said the same, lean but when revved it would come back to being about right then as it returned to idle it would again go back to lean. next job is take the exhaust manifold off and check for any witness marks of leaks.. anything else worth checking? as theres no MAF on these engines, so it rules that out
maifold was off to day. seemed ok but the bolts werent really tight, so that could have been part of the issue. I have now refitted the manifold after cleaning up the head and manifold and done the bolts up nice and tighht. after that I started the car and checked the readings on vag com, using meansuing blocks 32 the addaptation at idle aftre it had all settled down was 16% which is out of spec, (spec is +/- 10%) BUT when checking measuring block 31 the lambda prove value was hovering around 1000 going from 996 to 1040, and the voltage was good at around 4.75v so it looks like its not running lean at idle.. I just need to put it back on a wide band and see what that says now. but it does suggest that the leak is on the inlet side of things some where, maybe.
sticky idle control valve? The ECU can compensate by leaning off or enriching and retarding/advancing ignition to make it idle in the right place. Might be worth completely stripping and cleaning the throttle body assembly and making sure that it's completely clean (the idle air control valve is somewhat embedded in the casting, so you may not be able to get to it without taking it off and cleaning it from the back)
Lambda sensors are only meant to last 30k miles as they age. My lupo gti had a lambda fault. I have a raceland manifold and extended the cable, which I'm told, you aren't supposed to do as they are wideband and are a calibrated length. Changed the sensor after a while and lots of fault codes for a longer one . All power restored and no more faults.
Read earlier in ppc mag that the sports suffer with the egr valves clogging up. I dont know how true this is but it says they are difficult to clean out properly and a replacement is 100. I see you said that you had a dtc relating to the egr valve at the beginning so this could definately be worth looking into as a blocked egr valve could cause the leaning off dtc as well
