mk2 brake compensator adjusting

Discussion in 'Chassis' started by chrismc, Mar 29, 2010.

  1. chrismc Forum Junkie

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    Is there a general concensus on how the compensator should be set on a mk2?

    As I understand the compensator opens as weight increases in the rear of the car to provide more braking to the rear end

    As I have recently lowered my car, I have adjusted the compensator so the valve is fully closed with no weight in the rear of the car. Is this right or should it be slightly open? More rear braking would perhaps eliminate front end squat under heavy braking?

    Does the setting also need adjusting to allow for the extra power of 280mm front brakes for example?

    Im guessing a trial & error approach would work. Progressively adjusting the valve until the rear brakes start grabbing under heavy braking?

    Any advice gratefully received.

    Cheers, Chris:)
     
  2. neil kaye Forum Junkie

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    not sure if you have to do this with the 280mm conversion,but iirc the way to adjust it is with the car down on the floor as oppsed to on stands etc and take up the slack on the spring so its not moving,there was a good thread on this a while ago but i cant find it
     
  3. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    the correct way to do it is to measure the braking force to the rear wheels with a gauge then adjust the reg to suit, as per:
    http://www.oneilcastro.com/A2Bentley/SU02/ch4.5.2.html

    the way I do it is as above tho, just set car on level ground and adjust till the slack is just taken out of the spring. been that way for years and its sailed thru many an MOT and I've not died yet either :lol:
     
  4. RIP-MK3 Forum Addict

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    the best way is to swap for mk3 rear beam and fit a bias valve which does diddly squat and have your rears locking the whole time :(
     
  5. Mike_H Forum Addict

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    I'd have said that in normal driving you want as much rear braking as you can get, as long as you don't start to lock up the rear end. If you haven't got the kit, then it's trial and error. If you're fully on the front brakes, and no rears, it would increase your chances of cooking fluid, glazing pads, or warping discs. Also, you'll have less stopping ability, before you lock up the front end.

    Assuming you don't have a mate with a set of brake rollers, it's trial and error, and ideally testing on a wet day, as that's when you're more likely to lock up.
     
    Last edited: Mar 30, 2010
  6. RIP-MK3 Forum Addict

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    the other major problem with not enough going to the rears - is if you arrive a bit quick into a corner and need to trail the brakes you could end up sideways pretty quick if the fronts are slowing much quicker than the back!!
     
  7. chrismc Forum Junkie

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    That pretty much agrees with my thoughts Mike...:thumbup:

    Will get tweaking as soon as my 280's are fitted.

    Its a delicate balancing act between the rears locking due to the rear end going light with too little rear bias (valve closed) or the rears locking due to too much rear bias (valve too far open)

    Thanks for everyones help!
     

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