Alright everyone, I am looking to but a new car soon and i've always wanted an R32 till I started reading about the chains petentionally streching and at worse snapping. Now i've owned 12v VR's before and it never properly worried me but this has put the wind up me on the R32, how worried should I be about this? On one forum I read some guys had snapped after 44k and full VWSH... Cheers Adam
I don't think it's as bad as people make out Very few have snapped chains it was down to the links been stamped that made a weak spot And not down the the stretch in the chains it self Chain stretch can be checked with vag com to a certain extent but it is only a guide figure As you really need the know what it was to start with to compare it against But it can give you a good idea of what is going on
Get a MK5 R32 and you won't have the chain issue If you do get a MK4, you can either run through the VAG-COM check (01-engine electronics> 011-measured values> display group 208/209 (inlet & Exhaust) and make sure the number is less than -8 ) or take the upper chain cover off, time the engine to cyl 1 TDC (turn the crank 4 times!) and then make sure you can count 16 rollers between the two cam sprockets when the dotpunched arrows point at the VVT housing marks.....
Is this a problem for the 24V 2.8's from the 4motion too? Im going to do mine before it put it in. Is there a kit from VW or will i have to order the parts seperatly?
What age is your engine mate? If it's an AUE or AQP (pre 2002) you have no worries at all with that engine and I'd be surprised if it needs anything more than a new upper guide rail. That motor is bomb proof to coin an old cliche. It's only the pre 2005 R32s that are well documented as having the upper chain stretching issue, but technically speaking, the BDE/BDF 4Motions (2002 on) share the same VVT and chain setup as the R32, so if you have one of these engines, I would change the chains anyway to be honest. I've only seen American suppliers like Schimmel Performance or Four Seasons Tuning sell a kit of chain parts. I'm not aware of any UK supplied kits.
It's a piece of cake out of the car and good peace of mind too. All you need to know about timing it up is here - http://www.cfiamerica.com/24V.html And remember these 2 important things that many folk forget / over look: 1) The intermediate shaft timing only comes good once in every 4 crank turns. 2) Make sure the cam trigger wheels (or reluctor rings in VW speak) on both VVT adjuster sprockets are turned fully clockwise before fitting the new chain. In the MK4 this would throw a CEL on the dash if not aligned correctly, but in a conversion you won't know, so make sure all is well in VAG-COM before startup and whilst it's running. The exhaust VVT adjuster moves a lot less than the intake one, in case you muddle up the two sprockets by mistake (VERY easily done).
OK, maybe not THAT easy but if you follow the steps in those PDFs, you can't go wrong. Yep, BDE has intake and exhaust VVT.
Good info there mate, thanks for your time, good to know about the 4mo as that was something else i was looking at. Are the different engine codes the same power output, same power delivery? Where do you find the engine code? thanks Adam
Oh god, not you as well! I have the instructions from ELSA but looks like you might need a couple of special tools. What's the chances or marking the current chains and sprockets and taking them off. Copying the marks onto the new chains and putting them back on in the same place? Obviously changing the tensioners at the same time.
Same power but the BDE/BDF will have a bit more midrange torque from the variable intake cam. The 2.8 is a very unstressed engine and they reputedly remap to ~230hp without breaking into a sweat. On the pulley end of the head you might have a 3 letter engine code stamped into it and the full engine number is stamped into the block. On my R32 engine it's stamped onto an area behind the crank pulley IIRC.
The only tool I used was T10068, which is the cam locking plate. VW specify a tool to turn the crank, but a 27mm socket on a breaker bar does the same thing. I had to time mine up from scratch out of the car with no reference (long story), which is a little different to your scenario, so yeah, make as many marks as you can and realign them again when fitting the new parts. It's worth noting new chains have strategically placed brass links to help with the '16 roller count' between the VVT adjusters. When you put the VVT variators back on, remember to turn the cam sensor reluctor ring fully to the right. Start with the intake variator making sure there's no slack in the chain, then fit the exhaust one. Then check the arrows stamped on the variators point to the notches in the VVT housing, then count 16 rollers (not links) between the 2 arrows. You need to replace the variator to cam bolts as well as they're stretchers. It all sounds a bit vague but you'll see what needs doing when it's in bits. I have some pics somewhere of a timed engine that might help.
MILES away from Bristol sadly! This link is your friend! - http://www.cfiamerica.com/24V.html This pic explains the turning of the VVT adjuster bit quite nicely It's basically to make sure the VVT adjuster is in it's fully 'off' position before putting the new chain on, otherwise the ECU will throw a fault code and you'll have to do it again, lol! And this pic explains the roller counting thing. Those are the two key bits mate. If you can understand those bits you'll be fine I'll try and get some proper 'real life' pictures up for you as well.
Ok, Think i have kinda got the hang of it. So what parts do you think i will need to change? Both chains or just the top one? All the tensioners obviously and pins. I will put up a ETKA printout tonight. Also, Where did you get your tool from?
I just ordered the tool from a dealer. You will also need a 32mm open ended spanner to hold the cam still whilst you undo the VVT adjuster to cam bolts. The bottom chain never causes any problems but it's probably worth doing whilst you're there.
