Hi chaps, I will be attending to the balance of the wiring on my KR block this weekend and was wondering if anybody out there had connected a KR head with a CE1 and matching early mk1 (some say series 1) looms. The ignition loom is now connected and working, but just to double check the oil pressure and oil & water temperature spade connections that need to be made to operate correctly. I currently have a single spade connection on the oil filter and another spade connection on the side of the block (there are three male spades available). Do i need to use the others for anything? I assume some of them will be for MFAs and the like, which I do not have (I am using an early conical dash). Any helps (with pics) would really be appreciated. really just asking what spades connections need to be made and if anything additional goes to the KR ECU. Thanks again....
I have a similar set up ... not CE1 but ceramic fusebox. There are two connections on the oil filter / water cooler housing - the pressure switch spade connection is on the top (blue & blue cable) whereas the oil temperature sensor `button` is on the front (green / black cable) On the side of the head / block there are three connection points - blue / white cable for ECU - red / yellow cable for water temp gauge - red / green cable for ISV For oil temperature ... there is also a sensor at the rear of the head adjacent the distributor, green / black cable. Are you now happy that you have all the ECU cables / points identified ? Hope that helps ?
Thanks James, I think that has helped a lot. So I should be using both connections on the oil cooler housing and 2 of the 3 spades on the side of the block (I do not use the ISV connection as I am running on carbs). A few questions if you wouldnt mind: 1. Is the ECU connection wire part of the ignition loom, connecting to the ECU via the multipin plug? Or is it a separate connection onto the ECU? 2. Do I need to use both oil temperatures sensors (on the rear of the block and the cooler housing?) Is that for redundancy? Getting the mk1 Haynes manual as well, so hopefully that will join the dots for me. Again, thanks for the help!
I'm sorry but I want to ask something! Do you know which wires out of ЕCU, in to do engage the diagnosis? I do not have such a connection and I want to do alone,, , so would you if you asked me to show pictures to show me the need to let the wires, do to do oBD II connector as I have a problem with any of the sensors. Thank you very much. SORYY.. for my bad eanglish
Hi Vimal - decided to keep it? From a PM conversation I had from wiring guru RJ only this week, relating to doing a 16v conversion in one of the sciroccos. Bottom line: I think it's easier if you're already on CE1 electrics, as opposed to glass fuse type, and the ECU loom is separate from the engine loom. I've got a spare CE1 fuse box if you need. The temp sender on the rear of the block (or it might be on the head?) is just for the MFA I think. Highights from RJ: "if you arnt running the isv control box all you need is a standard k-jet loom anyway the extra loom is all to do with the isv control. the only wire you wont have is the 16v ecu pump trigger wire, but you can just use the 8v k-jet relay without the rev limiter in which iirc you have anyway from a while back" "the ecu temp sender wire is part of the ecu loom, you'll only need the rest of the 16v engine loom if you run the isv module as thats what the extra wires in there are for. all the cold start wiring is the same as the 8v for the 5th injector and wur etc, just a case of tweak the lengths to reach the 16v locations."
Mike - good to hear from you.... yeah that was a moment of weakness / or madness mate, put the ad up on a train home after a very long day and things seemed very difficult then. but glad to report that I have decided to give it one last push, and to get it to MOT is not much to be done, so i will do it myself and enjoy the car! anyway, that said the first battle is to complete the wiring - not sure if i misled you and James in the original post, I have the series 1 fusebox - and am using all series 1 looms except for the ignition side, which is the kr ecu and ignition loom. hence I have a few spare connections on the block that need to go somewhere. i figure there has to at least one water temperature, oil temperature and oil pressure sensor that need to be made. one question - blue/white spade on side of block to ECU - but what does this read? I am going to have a crack at it tomorrow - wish me luck and thanks to you and James for the info above. oh Mike, thanks for the offer of the fusebox.
I have the same electrics as yourself ... 1600GTI ceramic fusebox / loom plus 16v ECU / TCI running a 9A KJet ...
I have seat ibiza bath engine is from vw pasat 2.0 16v k-jet , my old engine original of the seat ibiza is 1.8 8v not full injection this is monopoint injektion
only difference is I am on twin 45 dellortos. I might be picking your brain this weekend mate if you dont mind.... really want to get it sorted close of play sunday. will let you know how i get on! did you modify any of the 1600 GTI engine loom for the 16V engine? I assume not, in which case, I also assume you did find the relevant posts on the fuseboard for the two connections on the oil filter/cooler, the three connections on the side of the head, and the connection on the rear of the block adjacent to the distributor. is that correct mate? on the 1600 GTI wiring diagram, I have the following: F1 - oil pressure (high) 1.8b F22 -oil pressure (low) 0.3b I cannot see where the fusebox takes the water and oil temperature.. do you have those pin numbers by any chance? The only modified loom is the ignition loom for the ECU and TCI. I just need to find that stray wire from the ECU to the side of the block..... wish me luck!
Sure ... http://www.clubgti.com/forum/showthread.php?t=219775 - see post 7 for pin numbers Original loom ... as Mike says above is much the same as the base 16v, I don`t recall ever delving into the fusebox for those posts. I would disregard the oil temp at the rear of the head as long as you have the other one, do you ? What year wiring diagram are you using ? My car is an Aug 82 and on the `crossover` to the 1800, some of the cable colours I have don`t match the 79 / 81 / 83 diagrams I have ... this is primarily with the fuel injection pump feed circuit though, should not concern you. My TCI / ECU cabling: TCI Green - coil neg - pin 1 Black - coil pos - pin 4 Blue / Brown - ECU - pin 6 Black - battery neg - pin 2 Pin numbers are for the TCI Multiplug connector ECU Brown - earth to valve / rocker cover Blue / White - head / block temperature sensor Blue / Brown - TCI Black / White - coil pos Grey / Green - dizzy hall sender Brown / White - dizzy hall sender Red / Black - dizzy hall sender Red / Yellow - fuel pump relay Black / Yellow - throttle position switch
Thanks again James. my car and wiring is 1980 spec - so all the looms I am using are the same except for the ignition circuit as already discussed. Cheers for the pin numbers, I had seen that before thought they may not match up for the 16v engine connections (like the ones we were talking about above). One thing that did puzzle me when i first did this was there were many spare female spade connectors left over when the blocks were connected to the fusebox and I thought these may go onto the G and H blocks - but there is only 3 G connections and 1 H connection - am i wrong is assuming these are always live connections? Well, time to get cracking on this... will post up some results! Cheers
What colour cables are the `spare` connectors to ? H is a constant live, the only direct feed from the battery ... and then jumped to G1 ... I assume that all G is then live from this ... G6 / G7 are then fuse protected. I`m certainly no expert though
Hi again ... I do not have the information you require, I suggest that you start a new thread where others may be able to help you. Good luck
Thanks to James and Mike for their help, my fingers are raw from working on wiring this weekend but here is where I am: So I began to piece, extend and rebuild the front loom of the golf and managed get some reasonable success. A lot of wire stripping, cleaning, soldering and pb tape.....All of the lights work except for the following issues: Left and right indicators do not work from the stalk (with no clicking noise either) - however the indicators work when the hazard switch is on. The front lights are single light setup. The small side bulb in the in the headlamp works on the first click of the main light switch on the dash. The second click on the switch doesn't seem to do anything, ie. the main bulb does not light up. The brights do work on the indicator stalk, which I think operates both filaments of the bulb. The stalk does not stay clicked though (so the brights will only work if the stalk is pulled - is that normal?) Can anybody help with a diagnosis? I have checked the earths and carried out continuity checks of the wiring. The only strange thing I have seen is the C8 - yel - Right headlight pin 56b wire does not terminate in C8 but rather ends in a female spade connection. The only thing I can think it connects to is a yellow wire running up into the dash is fused with twin 10A fuses and unconnected. Not sure if this was some modification, but I have tried connecting this together and no joy. My thinking is this twin 10A fused yellow wire is actually a red herring and that the main light switch is knackered. It is the one with the roller combined with the switch on the dash. Is there anyway of testing this switch? Or should I just pick one up and check. But then should I reconnect 56b to C8? It is a series 1 if that makes a difference. Sorry for the long post but any help would be appreciated as I so close to sorting this bad boy out!!!
Have you checked the integrity of the triple cable earth connection - seen in BLACK ... against the inner wing; it is a crimped connector within the sleeving
