Mk1 Scirocco NA for the track

I do not have that many posts here, and I was suggested I should probably share my obsession in the members gallery.

A bit of background :
My first car in college, was a 3 year old Scirocco in 1981. Since then, I have always enjoyed the esthetics of the Ital Design body.

I moved in 2008 and I was mostly in race bikes, but after a serious high side on the Shannonvile track in Ontario, I decided to redirect myself to cars. The only problem is they take a lot more room!

I took on the full restoration of a Mk1 Scirocco with a lot of upgrades during the wither of 2009-2010. You can see the build here:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4217668

But this thread is about my second Mk1 Scirocco. I tracked the street car a few times in 2010, and got hooked again for the track, but this time in a car, which is a bit safer than a motorcycle IMHO. So I decided to make a track car, because the street Rocco, was too nice to track, and had street items, that wer not pertaining to performance, and the performance that I wanted, would hinder on a "comfortable" street car.


At the moment the car has endured last years full season of track, and is a work in progress, as I have spent more time this year again improving (or thinking I would be improving anyways )

Here is my tale of a NA Mk1 Scirocco, reffered to as "the track car"
2.1L 16v 14:1 cr
Megajolt ignition
Weber DCOE 45's with F9 ET
Quaife 02A 6spd Dog box
228mm stage 4 clutch with eurovan actuator
H&R RSS Clubsport coilovers (non standard )
Custom cage
Lexan windows: All exept windsheild
CAE shifter
Quick disconnect steering wheel
Painless wiring loom
10.1 front brakes, Corrado 22mm master, and late A1 chassis brake booster
Custom tubular front control arms
Modified Honda racing radiator.
etc...

On to the pictures



Picked up a bare shell in the USA near Boston, so about a 14 hour drive return



Started off with the fun stuff; the engine: Big valve kit from Ferrera, with Ti retainers, and TT HD springs


Oversized valve seats before:


Oversized valve seat AFTER being worked


More detailed pictures of work on the head:

 

276's from Schrick


Door weight saving... about what? 40lbs / door?



All parts back from the machine shop
Nice little 16V head with all kinds of goodies!



Here's a little pic that shows well the intake passage, with the small 5.5mm intake vale stem, and the smaller & shorter cross section of the guide, and the taper it has instead of being "blunt"


Bloc prep for paint:



Bloc painted:



Shop pic; overview of engine components



This picture shows well the #2 cylinder crank modification to accept the diesel crank in the OBD1 ABA; oil squirter clearance, and needed counterweight modification (not shown in pic)




Crank install, and dry fitting, including thrust bearings end play verification

 

I had interference at the squish line between piston & head, I would rate it at about .002"
I took out my pistons, machined them, and re-did all my CC calculations for both head & pistons.
A few pics...



I took the engine apart again;
I got that the squish band interferes with piston travel, so I decided to do something about it.
Got my courage together, and put them in my 4 jaw chuck to machine my new Wossner pistons...
I would say that the first piston must have taken me an hour and a half, to get it within a couple of tenths ( ie: 0.0001") on the idicator, on run out and flatness.

I then machined them down with the same angle, but taking off about 0.043" on the diameter, at 45 degrees.

I then re-installed my pistons, to take the CC readings once more, to keep my dynamic compression ration, to the value I require... (this equates to 220psi)

Calculations to be done tomorrow, to compensate head gasket thickness once again.

p4c

 

A few things:
I have finished doing the most of the engine; windage tray, oil pump, intermediate shaft, timing pulleys, water pump, and made a block off plate for the crank sensor hole too. Oil pan is on.




I also doweked the main crank pulley, as I have seen horror stories on the TD cranks with just the keyway slot...

Drilled a hole in the pulley:


Then with a transfer punch, located the hole on the crank


This is the pulley into place. The large washer sits on top of the pressed pin afterwords.


Since I got the hole rear beam into place, I wanted to mock up where the tire would poke to...
Perfect fit for the 3" flares on order!




I have also started to install my camber plates!



Last but not least, my valve cover... Shaved black wrinkle finish!

 

Roll cage is finished; 17 hours on the first day, and about 10 on the second day...
Not a full 17 hours, as I attended a friends funeral from 9-12...

p4c












I prepped the engine compartment with Scotch brite.
Bought a HVLP spray gun.
Bought all the paint supplies (Urethane diamond silver metalic L97A)
The metalic is hard to place properly, but I'm learning, and its only the engine bay
Next step is prepping the interior, and priming the tubes...

p4c





I decided to tackle the Weber DCOE 45's;
On the menu (litterally, because I had to do this on the dining room table, as the shop is overcrowded, and no space is available, and I do need a very clean workspace to do this in...)
All new seals
New needle valve
New mains 160
New Emulsion tube F2
New air jet 210
New idle jet 55F9
New Venturi's (40 is the biggest one available for the 45's, so I'm border line with those carbs, for the power that will be produced )
Re-adjusting float height
Etc...

As you can see in the second and third picture, I even ground down the butterfly screws, to reduce air resistance... They say quality of workmanship is in the details...

Pics:

 

Started sanding / prepping the interior of the car; a few more hours of sanding, and some cleaning up,




Inside panel painting

 

The exterior paint, will get someone with skills, as I would like the car to look OK, especially with those flares
the interior looks kind of crappy with a few "silicone" spots, and the texture of the metallic is "chammy" like, but mostly on the floor pans...

The purpose is to have a single colour, and that the paint is actually against rust, would have been great if I could have made it look good, but what the hey, like I said, its a track car

P4C

 

More engine shots:



Camber plates, with integrated stress bar



Solid alloy rack mount


Fiberglass fenders & flares mounted



Body prep

 

Finished up the spare tire hole with alloy
Made an alloy battery tray and made a strap for anchoring the battery between the two rear struts
Finished machining & welding the EDIS 4 crank trigger wheel to crank pulley, and fabbed up the crank sensor bracket too. Al this for the Megajolt Jr V4 ignition set up







Front frame brace

 

Eurethane paint does not have the shine of base coat clear coat, but its a go fast car, and clean looks were the only prerequisites;

Lexan windows cut & installed, front grille, and headlight buckets, with modified bracketery for the front turn signals (fiberglass fenders are not OEM fitment ) Also put in the rear lights.

A few pics from when I got back from the painters, and few more after my small progress...

 

Heart transplant

 

I mocked up where the ignition module (Megajolt Jr v3) and the painless fuse boxes would go; decided to have them nicely tucked away in the glove compartment.


I also worked on the dash & figuring out circuits for everything; I am making everything new, no gremlins allowed . Hazards running with appropriate diodes on the flasher circuit, shift light (LED with resistance) right in my face!, etc...


You can see in the picture below that spaghetti has begun!



Engine bay:
Fuel pump & circuitry: Check
Coilpack wiring & fitment : Check
Custom fabbed wires (16V front ends with Ford back end for EDIS4 coilpack) : Check
EDIS4 module wired, routed, and installed including all shielded wires, etc... : Check
VR sensor install & wired : Check
Starter, alternator, & engine grounds & wires : Check
Brake light circuit: Check



Here we see the empty space that needs to be occupied by a Rad... I have fabbed & welded my alloy rad once, and still had clearance problems; I will be attacking this shortly...


Rear of the car wiring almost finished



Here we can see my front end pretty much the way it should stay...

 

Double take anyone ?


Dyno: not tuned at all, this is straight out of the garage or almost....Yours truely at the 4:02 mark.

[YOUTUBE]-GBvajInBJ0[/YOUTUBE]

 

In this video, my friend Rej, is following me in his yellow Mk1 golf with a 2L16V turbo with megasquirt boosting about 12 psi... and dynoe'd at 250whp approx (you can see his power on the dyno video posted above...)
[YOUTUBE]NPTfZSDTMMQ[/YOUTUBE]

 

Last outing in october 2011: broke the intermediate shaft... time to call it a season, and start wrenching for 2012...




New bottom end bearings are installed, changed them with the engine still in the bay;
I have such limited space, that I need to leave the engine in the car...

I have to lower the timing belt side of the engine, to take out the intermediate shaft. On top of this, I have to remove the other part of the intermediate shaft by reaching inside the block...

After that, I will reinstall the mount, and take out the transmission & mount.

I placed an order for A1 chassis O2A trans mounts from Germany;
I thought I would post the link, because they are way cheaper than anywhere else; 89 euros, and about 12 euros shipping...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/36034764677...76&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK:MEWNX:IT&vxp=mtr

Got my stage 4 clutch kit also with the 8lbs chromoly flywheel

Also splurged on this: :rolleyes: CAE VWMS ultra shifter


Keep you all posted soon with progress!

p4c

 

So I put the head on, and temporarily torques the head with only a few foot pounds to verify that the head gasket does not intefere with the pistons. Put on the belt, and proceeded to rotate the engine by hand from the crank bolt with the spark plugs removed from the head.

Not even after a full crank rotation, something was binding
So I decided to make some custom dowel pins, because of my lamination of 2 HG from an ABA:
I am presently at 2.40mm HG thickness with a static compression ratio of 14.7:1

I doweled the first one with 3 different diameters, and the second with 2:
The first one locates block, head gasket, and head within 0.002"
The second one is a interference fit, on the slot of the HG. Meaningt it has the same diameter as the slot width. This means that I will never have to locate any delaminated gaskets ever again!

So proceded with the dowel installation, after spending almost 2.5 hours machining within 0.0005" the little metal parts...

Installed the HG on the block, and I was very happy with the result; I decided to turn the crank to verify clearance with pistons 2 & 3, and the same binding occured. I tried rotating the intermediate shaft pulley, and thats where I understood that the 1.8 PL intermediate shaft, even though fitted with the proper 2.0 9A oil pump gear, would not clear the diesel crank...

So tomorrow, I will need to lower the engine on the passenger side, that means I need to take out the CV joints, etc...

Oh well, I also need to find a 9A intermediate shaft now

Keep ya posted!
p4c

 

I also started to machine some steering column bearing repair parts, posted some up for sale, but the tex brought them down.
Just thought I would share what they look like and if you think this is good for you PM me, do not post about them in the thread...

Its a bearing retainer, that just blots on to the steering column, no need to take it appart.
It holds the lower bearing in place, as the plastic race usually breaks & slips out.

 

Mocking up the new rod end lower control arms...
I will be making welded ball joint extenders, to fit in the rod end at the spindle.





Getting there...

 

As far as developements for tonight, finally some welded ball joint extender goodness!