Hi all, At the stage of reconnecting everything up on my mk2 8v to ABF conversion and could really use some help on what goes where. Have been dreading this stage of the build as me and wiring do not mix well ! Got my converted loom back from RJ and I've managed to work out where most connectors go but there are a few I'm pretty stuck on and have a couple of questions on the routing. If anyone could shed any light on it it would be much appreciated I'd love to get it running this weekend. Sorry for all the pics but it's the best way to explain stuff. ENGINE BAY 01 - these are clumped together, near the passenger chassis leg if my routing is correct. Literally no idea what they are for? All the engine connectors look present in that location. EDIT - Think I've figured these out, one is for the gearbox reverse switch, the others are for the 16v gearbox but as I'm using an 020 8v box surplus to requirements? 02 - pretty sure this D-plug is for the Lambda sender and the other for the plug on the airbox? EDIT - Yup, can tick these off 03 - Smaller ECU connector. This comes off from the main ECU connector. Only seems to be one outlet on the ECU but have this spare plug - surplus to requirements?. The old mk2 digifant ECU had the two plugs. 04 - pretty sure these are for the coil? 05 - Earth wire. This looks to go back to the ECU. Where should this earth to? Oil Senders I have two senders on the oil cooler but only what seems to be one wire with a spade connector. What are the blue and white senders? Oil pressure? Terrible pic I know but you can make out the senders in the background and the two wires. 06 - Unknown connector. This goes back into the main circular multi plug for the engine. 07 - 2x earth spades - EDIT - I think these just bolt to the cylinder head next to the oil pressure sender? I think that's all for now! Many thanks if you can help
1. 2 pin is reverse switch, red/black is starter and alternator is the blue one. you can use the blue wire on the lighting loom instead, depending on your alternator cabling 3. TCI unit, this should be on top of the old ecu bracket. if you accidentally sold it any mk2 with electronic ignition has one you can use, just need to find a way to mount it. i hacked up the old mk2 ecu bracket for the short term 4. ya coilm, black is +/15, red/black is -/1 5. earth to battery -ve, or any good chassis earth oil senders: blue/black wire goes to the large blue or brown sensor, yellow wire to the large white sender. you have to look close between the black outer sheath and the spade to see the actual wire colour! green/black is mfa oil temp which is the smaller white one (sorry the spade is missing off one of them, must have missed that when i checked it!) 6. electronic speedo sensor, left on just in case you go mk3 dash or whatever 7. earth to head, should be a bolt lower corner round the back near the black coolant pipe chunky yellow spade plug with red wire -> fuel injector power to Z1 brown 2 pin with red/green -> diagnostics port black plug -> immobiliser box brown ring terminal -> earth to chassis
Spot on RJ, cheers for that. Will take another look one evening this week. Might have recheck my starter/alternator wiring then, I thought most of that was covered with what loom remained in the car. Perhaps it's to do with the 020 starter rather than Ibiza one? Anyhow cheers, that list is really helpful.
the starter plug is on the engine loom in a mk2/3/seat. what it is you have a mk3 style plug on your loom and the old starter motor is a spade connection. i forgot to ask what you have! what i would do is fit a mk3 1.8-2.0 8v starter motor they're a nice upgrade, plus you can then use the nice waterproof clip on plug. the other thing you can do is cut the plug off and crimp a spade on then it'll fit the mk2 starter
I may have to chop the plug of then and keep it if I ever switch back. The mk2 starter is pretty new so don't really want to change it . The wire isn't quite long enough to reach so could do with a small extension anyway. Put an hour or so in yesterday and plugged most of it back in. Although the engine loom isn't completely finished the lighting loom is and should work right? I've messed something up as when I connect the battery for longer than a second it smokes. Any ideas what I may have missed? Are there any relays I need to swap over from the Seat? Regarding the blue alternator wiring I have it going from the lighting loom like so: Is this ok? Splits off here and goes to the alternator Bolted to the TCI to the top of the ECU using dizzy cap screws. Does it matter how these are mounted at all? Lastly I need to run the wires for the VDO's - I have a 0.3-0.15/0-5 bar sender which I think goes in the cylinder head as before. Does it replace the left or right sender here? Thanks! Pretty close now, sorry for all the questions just these last few issues
1. thats fine, what i did on my mk2 was made a small extension that popped into the mk3 plug and then i taped it in place, untill i got a mk3 starter. 2. yeah thats just fine, what it is the mk3 has blue wire in engine loom, mk2 in lighting loom. either wire will work but i include the mk3 plug in case you want to use the mk3 alternator loom 3. the tci may get hot there, but keep an eye see how it is. its not like the metal cage rweally conducts a lot of heat but the metal part of the mk3 ecu i think is also a heat sink i think 4. the pressure sensor replaces one of the oil pressure switches in the filter head, it'll be the blue or brown one if its a 0.3bar sender with the lengths im pretty sure it should be ok, did you pull that loop out of the scuttle tray a bit to give you some more length to the chassis leg? if there is any excess i tuck it behind the coolant reservoir. also on the mk3 the loom runs further forward down the chassis leg than it did on the mk2, theres a big plastic bracket that is attached to the top starter mounting bolt where the loom sits in to hold it away from the gearbox battery wire smoking is bad! how have you got the main cabling wired up and what wires do you have to the terminals?
Cheers RJ. 2 - I'll tuck the spare alternator wire away then. 3 - Ah I see, where would you mount it on the ECU? Further back? Wasn't sure exactly what environment it needed, just seemed as easy place to put it - as you say it does have heat sink qualities. 4 - Ok cheers got it I'll see if I can pull some more loom through then. It might be that I've just been anal with the routing and trying to make it neat lol. Yeah battery smoking is bad haha. I disconnected again straight away so no damage should have been done. Main cabling as in from the battery? As far as I know I haven't touched it and it should be factory as it has always been. I'll check it out again tonight and get some pics. Only thing I can think of is I removed an uprated headlight loom which I haven't put back in yet - I'm pretty certain it's the lighting loom I've got something wrong on rather than the engine loom.
what i do is modify the mk2 battery tray so the mk3 ecu fits, you could hack it down to the bare minimum for the tci then bolt it to the seat ecu bracket which is what i assume you're using right now? the routing is a bit of a git on seat looms as its just not quite right for a mk2 so you have to give it some thought when you make it. as it is i had to splice in loads of length for lambda/inlet temp as they were way too short on the dodgy seat routing lol yeah where have you run the main battery earth and live to on the new engine?
Ok cheers will take another look tonight and report back on the battery wiring. Yeah using the Ibiza ECU bracket currently but doesn't fit very well in the scuttle recess so will mod the Mk2 one. I guess a toledo bracket would be ideal here as per toyotecs guide. Cheers RJ, I'll check the battery connections later.
yeah but you still wont have anywhere to mount the tci on it unfortunatly! when you mod the mk2 bracket be carefull that the ecu doesnt sit too far back, bonnet weill hit it! on mine i snapped the rear lugs off the back to make more room. long term im cutting up and welding a mk2 bracket to make it fit better but i need a welder to finish it off lol
how much? hi sorry to put in but i've just got an abf fot my mk2 and was wondering how much it cost to get the wiring loom converted?i,ve got 2 looms with my engine.thanks
Ok worked out the problem with the battery short, wrong connector on the starter motor. Now have lights and power However now have a few more electrical issues. Finished plugging in the fuse box so thought I'd see if the car would turn over. Admittedly I've bridged the starter motor connector as a temp measure - it turned over the once but now all I can hear is just the solenoid. Relay 80 was making a few bizarre noises too - wondering if I should try a different one as I could hear the fuel rail pumping fuel in, got rather fumey lol With the transponder loop is it necessary to trim the small retaining lug from insider in order for it to fit on the mk2 column? Can't seem to get it to fit correctly and wanted to check before I start hacking it up. Bad pic but can see it in this pic: Also is this black rectangle the transponder section that needs cutting out and taping to the column? Cheers
sounds like the battery is too weak, if you bridge the starter direct that will rule out all other wiring issues and just leave battery or battery cable problem. the fuel relay issue is probably related to the battery issue. with the reader coil i think you have the later type which is a different shape and will only fit properly on the later type ignition lock if you change the immob box for an early one that would work but this means messing with the transponder wiring as all the plugs differ. for now tape the chip on and call it a day yah thats the chip, carefully remove it and tape it in place on the reader coil
Cheers, boshed the battery on charge today so will see if that makes a difference later. Ah right bugger. I thought if I removed that little notch on the inside so it's completely smooth it'll sit better on the mk2 barrel - would just need to find someway of keeping it there. I guess I may have to mod the cowling around the outside. So that chip literally just has to be in close proximity - might be a daft question but can I just tie the reader coil with the transponder chip attached/taped on up under the dash or does it HAVE to sit on the key barrel?
you can always give it a go, worst case just get another reader coil if you damage it! you'll find them on polos as well as very late mk3 golf/cab and seats. you can have the reader coil anywhere you like, all it cares about is that the chip is close to it. try to stick it so its close to the position it would be in with key in the ignition and switched on
Ah! I didn't realise that it didn't need to be mounted on the ignition barrel, in that case I'll just stick the chip on and hide it up in the dash for now just get to get it running! Thanks
Gah! lol. After a few sparks thrown I realised the engine bay singular earth wire from the engine loom (from figure 05 in original post) wasn't connected properly. Popped that on with a recharged battery and we have a working starter motor. However, now I can get the car to turn over it just won't fire. I have spark from all leads but I'm wondering if maybe it's a fueling issue. The 80 relay still clicks intermittently (which I think is fuel pump relay?) so perhaps maybe that is causing problems? Put a fresh jerry can of fuel in as the tank is pretty stale but to no avail. Either that or I have an electrical issue still but after checking all of the loom over and connectors everything seems connected up. I can't have gone wrong with the fusebox as the plugs only fit in specific slots and I don't think it's immobiliser related as I was under the impression the car would start but cut out if something wasn't right there. Firing order is as follows which I think is correct Realised after reading toyotecs guide again I don't have this junction box installed nor do I recognise any of the wires. I have it in the garage I think but this shouldn't effect the starting should it? I have the brown 2 pin with red/green -> diagnostics port unplugged completely at the mo. So I'm stumped to be honest. Turns over fine but no hint of starting. Given up for tonight. Sorry for the rambling haha.
the fuel pump should prime on the first turn of the ignition, then it wont prime again until the ignition has been off for a short time. as long as its running while the engien is cranking that is fine, if you suspect the relay though a 67, 80 or 167 will all do. for testing put your #18 relay in the pump socket that will make the pump come on with the ignition. it will stop the lights, blower, wipers etc working but no problem if you're just testing you have the firing order correct but the leads may be on in the wrong spot, so move them all round 1 and try again, then again, then again. only 1 of 4 ways to do it so you'll get there the abf dizzy cap is a pain in the ass #1 is never where you expect it to be lol the jumper block is only needed to join the diagnostics output to the vag-com port, it wont effect anything. its the 2 pin brown plug with the green/red wire on your loom that goes into it (dodgy SEAT wiring colours)
