Hi its my first time to change the water pump belt because the alternator belt are badly worn, I should replace both of them. which bolt to loosen up the water pump belt? Hayes book are crap lol Rob
Various set-ups. I have a Jreg Gti which has 2 belts. The outer one that drives the waterpump and power steering off crank pulley. The adjustment is made on the poxy power steering pump bracket. The adjuster and jam nut are located at the lowest point, inbetween the crank pulley and PAS pump. Loosen off the steering pump bolts and nuts and the adjuster bolt locknut and (The eye bolt that has the adjuster bolt and jam nut going through it) It should all theoretically move if it's not rusted and seized. (unlikely) Forward (tightens) Rearward (loosens) by way of the adjuster bolt.
Like Haynes. Here is an expoded view of 'what's-what' involving the power steering pump and belt tensioning bracket I'm referring to. http://www.clubgti.com/showthread.p...&highlight=mk2+power+steering+belt+adjustment Post #2. It can be a real PITA job.
Apart from overcoming seized bits, as mentioned above, there's a bolt that's a bit 'non-obvious' - in reality and the Haynes pics - that needs loosening, as well as its brother, so that the back of the PAS pump can pivot in some slotted holes. Here's my attempt to clarify with some red arrows and text. Credit to Trev16v for pointing out this hidey-bolt in one of our many "Help please Trev, I'm stuck!" phone conversations.
The whole setup is an excrescence. I've not long put mine back together after a bit of a refurb. It's a bit of a battle between having the bolts loose enough to pivot and slide without having the belt tension increase as you tighten up.
Excrescence. Like it. lol I found that even when I'd found every bolt that needed loosening, I still couldn't get the belt on or off without removing either the PAS pulley or the waterpump pulley. The pulleys come together 'til they're touching but there's still not enough slack to get a belt on or off. Cracking bit of design. Maybe I just wasn't brutal enough?
If the shoe fits I can help with that it's just like getting a bicycle chain on/off. Just pull as much of the belt as you can over the top leading edge of the PAS pulley and hold it whilst rotating either the crank pulley or the PAS pump by the 3/8" hex in the spindle. I've always done it like that as there wasn't much chance of getting either pulley off in situ on mine prior to the refurb. Since I've discovered the 3/8" hidden behind rust I could of used a cracking bar to hold it instead of making an mdf tool
...also the very reason we shouldn't be judgemental about Mk3's. Makes really good retro-refinement upgrades for Mk2's.
Thanks for lot of helps and last one I want show you bottom adjustment and I not sure what is it for?
Sorry to highjack the thread but when you say convert to the mk3 system, do you mean remove frm a mk3 and refit to the mk2 this lot; PAS pump, Water pump, Alternator, Brackets, Or is just the PAS pump and alternator sorted. Keen to do this to mine also. Thanks
yeah but you dont need the waterpump, the mk2 one can be used. if the mk3 is newer no harm in fitting it. you'll basically want to strip the donor bare of all the pulleys, brackets, studs and nuts etc. theres a stud into the side crank flange which holds the lower side pas bracket on which is easily missed so dont forget it, this replaces one of the mk2 flange bolts
given the choice i would go for early non-ac, with the big spring under the alternator. more room in the bay plus no tensioner wheel to go wrong pas parts all the same regardless of alternator setup mind
Are the MK3 crank pulley timing marks the same? It seems as though it maybe a little tighter down the side with the wider belt.
