200 bhp? k-jet 2ltr KR Tsr pack A head how to?

Discussion in '16-valve' started by Sirguydo, Dec 11, 2014.

  1. Sirguydo

    Sirguydo Fastest milkman in the West Paid Member

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    Pictures of my available cylinder heads please bear with me I'm having problems with photobucket and can only load 1 picture at a time [:s] then have to edit to load the next , think it's an iPad issue or I'm just a numpty lol

    Oettinger bare head
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    Spare Tsr head
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    Race car head
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    Last edited: Dec 12, 2014
  2. Sirguydo

    Sirguydo Fastest milkman in the West Paid Member

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    Notice the oettinger valve guides been completely ground off [:s]
    What you think experts ???

    Do I go with the TSR with piper 285 cams or get a pair of kr's reprofiled ?
     
  3. HPR

    HPR Administrator Admin

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    Go for the Oettinger head as that looks by far the best, dont mind the ground off guides as long as the valves are guided well, otherwise new guides are needed.

    On the cams both Schrick 276 and Piper 285 will do
    to make a proper judgement you need to look at valvelift and lobe centre to TDC, not just duration as this tell you very little.... after all its how you set the cam-timing...that makes they work or not
    the schrick 276 is 11.5 mm lift at 110 degr / the piper ??? guess 11.0 - 11.2 mm at 106 degree or something like that
    i tend to go for the schrick
     
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  4. Dan W

    Dan W CGTI Regional Host

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    I've got a complete k jet set up/tuning kit that has all the correct fittings and adapters for testing every part of the k jet system It'll allow you to check and set everything, it's in a large sized briefcase that I could stick in the post for you to use and post back when done? It's great for checking and setting fuel pressure in and out of the metering head plus you can asses the condition of the fuel pumps and accumulator etc
     
  5. Sirguydo

    Sirguydo Fastest milkman in the West Paid Member

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    That sounds brilliant go clubgti :thumbup:
    Yodel or one of the other couriers would be good PM me your details for returning it when done and I'll pm you my details :thumbup:I'll paypal you the dosh to post :thumbup: how often do you use it ? How long could I have it for ? Don't want to get it to soon and have it for ages [:s]
    Dan what you think of the thread so far ?;)
     
  6. Jon Olds Forum Junkie

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    That AFR trace would worry me, in your position. It needs understanding and dealing with prior to running any new engine. Personally I would have pulled the plug on top end testing when I saw the traces going lean, if the traces are to be believed.
    Jon
     
  7. Dan W

    Dan W CGTI Regional Host

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    I've no use for it at the moment so you can have it for as long as you want really. I'll check what it'll cost tomorrow and let you know
     
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  8. Sirguydo

    Sirguydo Fastest milkman in the West Paid Member

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    Race car AFR 84?
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    Spare one off h reg
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  9. 3hirty8ight Forum Member

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    027 head is a compromise against the 051 heads.
     
  10. Sirguydo

    Sirguydo Fastest milkman in the West Paid Member

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    Been told the 027 flows slightly less than 051 but both flow enough for 200 bhp and that's more than we get from the k-jet
    As a competitor is there any general knowledge you would like to share ? General paddock stuff ? :thumbup:
     
  11. 3hirty8ight Forum Member

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    K-jet can be made to supply enough fuel for 200bhp no problem. The ignition control that it's coupled with is the limiting factor..

    K-jet main fuel pumps are only good (even genuine Bosch) for a season of racing, then they start to go weak leading to lean top end issues.
     
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  12. Sirguydo

    Sirguydo Fastest milkman in the West Paid Member

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    So I've put my name down for foxjays mk3 [:s] gti fuel tank and pump set up I know this is good for turbos but will it be ok for k-jet high power set up ?????
     
  13. 3hirty8ight Forum Member

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    K-jet requires massive (comparatively to non-KJet) system pressure.. I don't think the mk3 pump will be able to supply the pressure.

    Pressure and volume are very different!
     
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  14. Toyotec

    Toyotec CGTI Committee - Happy helper at large Admin

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    Henry is right. MK3 pump not suitable for KJet operation.
     
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  15. Sirguydo

    Sirguydo Fastest milkman in the West Paid Member

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    Got this today :thumbup:
    [​IMG]
    Had a quick meassure of the shrick cam lobes and there approx 1.5-2mm higher lift than the pipers and standard KR cams :thumbup: and there duration is noticeably longer than the pipers :thumbup::thumbup:
    So ATM I think I'll just use the race head for now and sort the block :thumbup:

    Obviously issues are fuel related and this is the area we need to concentrate on to get more power :thumbup:
     
  16. AjVR Forum Member

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    If you have the time it could be worth doing as someone else did and try shortening the runners/increasing the plenum size.

    That would obviously require dyno time to check the results but if you really want to get close to 200bhp on a Kjet could be interesting.

    The K20 (honda) engine responds very well to some of the different intakes....


    Obviously get the engine with standard intake running well first. :thumbup:
     
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  17. Sirguydo

    Sirguydo Fastest milkman in the West Paid Member

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    Very doable as I've got spare manifolds and a tig welder :thumbup:

    Maybe next winters experiment lol
    Like you say got get the current setup maxed before playing around to much :thumbup:
     
  18. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    worth checkin out the part numbers on the side of the fuel meterign head section and the air flap part, also pop the boot off and look at the shape and sizes of the cone very carefully. you can find re-profiled air cones about the place not sure if the RE/TSR cars had them or not. I bought a setup off a race car a long while back which had a porsche metering head and a re-profiled cone. I put measurements somewhere...

    edit: here they are: http://www.clubgti.com/showthread.p...ghing-Valves&p=1952378&viewfull=1#post1952378

    was gutted when I found out it was all genuine motorsport stuff as I'd already sold it cheap :lol:
     
    Last edited: Dec 15, 2014
  19. Sirguydo

    Sirguydo Fastest milkman in the West Paid Member

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    Have a look at post 28 Jonny :thumbup:
     
  20. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    i mean the part number plate on the sides of the air flap assy and the fuel metering head themselves, the rubber and plastic numbers no use as those will just be std 16v stuff. the airflap numbers on the inside dont tell you much either. the part numbers you are interested in are like metal plates riveted on :thumbup:

    plus I foudn my airflap had a normal mk2 16v part number only way to tell it was motorsporty was to measure the cone itself as std units were machined out for motorsport usage :)
     

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