Mk1 golf DTA ECU wiring

Wouldn't that mean that my ecu and lambda would be powered through the fusebox if I stick them onto the P spades rather than running dedicated supplies in from the battery?

 

Plus it's a new fusebox, I don't want to be running cables in if there's no need. I'll concentrate on making sure the main feed from the battery is good then . Thanks again!

 

Your first idea on the lambda controller would be my preferred choice.
Powering the lambda controller, allows the heater PWM circuit to go live and heat the sensor to ~ 300 C degs where it becomes operational.
This is why the instructions suggest a dedicated circuit.
Fairly simple and suitable 4 pin relay will do the trick here again. Use ignition +12v (KL15) to power up the relay coil and switch a fused live supply (KL87) to the lambda controller.

 

That's all taken on board! Whittling it down now
So as above but feed lambda relay direct from battery. ECU ill feed from one of the P spades. Everything else as I mentioned a few posts back based on all the information kindly provided by everybody.
I've found my 80 relay which was in my corrado G60 fusebox I had lying around and lo and behold cheeky pin number 6 is there to do the fuel pump switching for me.
Just going out to the garage again to check the main loom over paying attention to the main feed into the fusebox from the lighting loom.
New fuse box is on the way.
I've started putting together an order for my cabling and connectors. I've found a sturdy looking (albeit rather ancient) ratchet crimping tool but I'm not overly sure if it's going to work with the crimps I need to make. How do I get a picture on here from my phone? Do I have to paste a photo bucket link or can I pop a picture straight in here?

 

I've been going through the loom, split it apart into a few sections (pulled a few connectors apart).
The loom with connector D on it that has the coil connections, wiper motor etc. I want to strip all the unnecessary wires from it. I'm guessing there is no harm in removing pin D26 and associated wire (Ignition coil terminal 1) and D23 (coil terminal 15).

 

Just trying to upload images, here are the crimps I have hopefully;

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Also can anyone identify these connectors. The following connector is linked to two other connectors. They are in the same loom that carries the coil wires and wiper motor plug. It has two green and white wires going to one side and two red and black wires on the other;

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It plugs into these connectors;

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A quick update, I've almost got my order together with 12 volt planet for all the cabling to wire in the relays and run new cable for the fuel pump supply and ground, fuse box feed from the battery and coil supply which goes to pin D23. I won't be removing that cable as suggested by myself in previous post!. Still can't see any harm in removing the other coil cable at the moment as it's not going to be connected to anything.
By the looks of it however my rev counter relies on that feed from the coil to work. Is there any way of getting my rev counter to work with this conversion?.

 

You leave both the Coil supply (black) and the negative (red/blk) in the engine bay.

To get the rev counter to work, use two diodes as I have shown in various Megasquirt 'how to'.

 

Great thanks Eddie!
Okay so I splice into both coil feeds from my ECU and via two diodes connect both wires to my Red/blk -ve coil wire. Won't this give the clocks 2 triggers per crank revolution?

 

Simultaneously, when you trigger the coils of same channel A, you 'waste' one of the sparks during the transition of the exhaust stroke to intake stroke.

Without the diodes to add the signals, your tach will operate at half of actual engine revs.

 

I was thinking coil bank A fires, spark for cylinder 1 is utilised and 4 is wasted. Crank turns 180 degrees, coil bank B fires, cylinder 3 spark utilised and 2 wasted. 2 triggers per revolution meaning it would read twice the actual crank speed?

 

I'll order a new set from 12 volt planet then, just putting together my ever growing list of wires and connectors together now.
Is there anything that you would recommend I do to the loom whilst it's out of the car and accessible? The outer protection is in reasonable condition but there are areas where it's been pierced. I'm wondering if it's worth stripping the lot off and re taping the loom.

 

Another mysterious connector, in with the C connector loom,ring any bells Johnny?

 

Great that all makes sense . Have been putting an order together with 12 volt planet and got to the TE/AMP mate no lock connectors and the guy I spoke to didn't think they sold that type. Have you bought them from there before? This is the type I found on their site;
http://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/P00108-10.html

 

For the benefit of others reading.

In a 4 cylinder 4 stroke engine, each cylinder experiences a power stroke every 2 cycles of crankshaft and in 2 cycles or 720 degs you will have all 4 cylinders fire.
With a wasted spark system, 2 towers from 1 of 2 coil packs fire 2 cylinders at the same time. One will be on it's power stroke and the other on the exhaust stroke (the 'wasted' one).

Therefore:
At TDC cylinder 1 fires as well as cylinder 4 at BDC - Spark A is triggered.
180 deg later cylinder 3 fires at TDC and cylinder 2 at BDC - Spark B is triggered.
180 deg later cylinder 4 fires at TDC with cylinder 1 at BDC - Spark A is triggered
180 deg again and cylinder 2 fires at TDC with cylinder 3 at BDC - Spark B is triggered.

So in one cycle, you have 2 sparks. That is how the rev counter is configured for a 4 cylinder.
This is why we add the spark triggers from the both coil channels to have two high amplified pluses/rev to feed the tach.

HTH