I've had a good look and not come up with anything, once we start moving house i might find one as I'll be emptying the loom shed. right now I got several boxes I cant get to as above the alt cable is easy enough to replace we just need to know the exact spec/age/amps/ac you got on yours then we can dig out the right party number
I have been less worried about the alternator wiring, and the hatch lock, during the last few days. BECAUSE: #1 - The EXHAUST EMISSION WARNING LIGHT is constantly lit again. #2 - The MFI has stopped working properly. Current MPG cycles form 0.0 mpg through to 99.9 mpg, second by second by second, then starts at 0.0 again. Other read-outs appear to be stuck. I have been reading all I can about how the two systems work. Not found anything very useful as yet though!
This is why I could not find it. Not connected to the battery! Just 2 for the AUQ. With and without A/C. The 'Option Codes' list shows: 8GD = 90 Amp. I can't see the identification plate on the alternator so can't confirm. So the 150 Amp in-line fuse fitted is too big. The original 120 A fuse must have been blowing due to corrosion as John suggests!
Had a 'good news', and a very 'bad news', day yesterday! Firstly though a complaint. I drove the car for the first time on a cold morning and the gear change was dreadful. Very stiff and would not 'self-centre' into the 3rd/4th plane. Is this normal for a cable change, or do I have to clean and lube. it? 'Good News' - The MFI is working OK again! All I did was zero it! Did not even disconnect the battery, which the dealer said' often settles them. Took the car to the dealers prior to its NCT test to sort the engine warning lamp. This time it was the THERMOSTAT showing a fault signal. They erased the fault so the light was off for the test. I'll look at what is involved before deciding what to do. I said I might buy a Scan Tool, but was told not to bother as they were willing to do any scan checks for free! I appear to be a sort of honoured guest at the dealers. The guy I met l last time, Fergal, is the workshop manager. This time I was introduced to Mark, who is the chief technician. I was taken into the workshop and talked through the comfort system, i.e. central locking, and the OBD. To solve the boot lock problem they will trouble shoot it for free, if I bring the car in with the necessary trim removed. Emission tests fine on NCT so probably a spurious fault signal? 'Very Bad News' - Massive NCT failure! I know most of the testers at the NCT place in Sligo, and they know our AUDI 100 and MKII. In the past 14 years I have only had 2 re-tests. Front ball joint and petrol pipes, on the Audi. They usually say to me - "Perfect as usual". Yesterday the tester named Ronan did the MK4. He is a big VW and Audi fan, and drives an A4, so we always chat about the cars. I told him how poor the Golf handled compared with the AUDI 100. How it was difficult to hold a smooth line around bends where the AUDI seemed like it was on rails. I thought it was the crap Chinese Khumo directional tyres, he suspected something was wrong! (I have fitted super grippy AO Dunlop Sport Maxx RT on the rear, and these will be fitted on the front when the crap wears out. Funny thing. The AO tyres have the better grip, when compared to the MO, or other marque specific Maxx, but are cheaper!) #1 - Front offside ball joint knackered. I know the previous owner fitted a new wishbone about 6 months before we bought the car. Bent rear wheel shows he had a big prang on ice. He fitted a Febi one. I told him they are crap, and this proves it. I recon the rubber bushes won't last long either so it will be a re-furbishmnet all round, or a new complete wishbone. Depending on costs. I might do both sides for balance sake. #2 - Rear springs broken! Work that one out? I have seen this before on a friend's car with knackered shockers. The shockers appear to be OK, but at 137,590 miles are probably worn! I am wondering about fitting coil overs so we can raise the suspension, and soften the shock rates. Mind you, 1,650 for the Sachs SRE kit might be a step too far! I quite fancy doing it, but Lainey would need to work an extra month as that is just about one month's pay!
Lainey collected new LHS Ball Joint, and Brake Splash Plate, from the dealers today. Ball Joint - 39.38 (-15% + 23%VAT) = 41.20 Shield - 6.64 (-15% + 23%) = 6.94 Started by unbolting the CV joint. Got my " drive hex key and scaffold pole out to unfasten the bolt. Did not need the scaffold pole as the bolt was not very tight. Nowhere near the 250Nm it should have been. IDIOT previous owner! IDIOT me! I have lost the anti-theft wheel bolt adaptor, so I could not take the wheel off. I recon that I left it in one of the bolts, last week, when I did the brakes and arch liners! So it's off to the dealers on Monday. It's a 10 point so I need a 8D0601139F 000 adaptor. Hope there's no puncture on the way! Still not decided on the suspension. I posted on another thread about Bilstein and H&R. Not sure I would be happy with either of these so it looks like big bucks for a SACHS SRE kit or OE Spec Sachs from ECP and new standard 25J springs from the dealers.
I've done this in the past Dave, I walked about 30ft down the road and there it was embedded in the tarmac, might be worth a quick look before spending any cash.
Hey up Will, how are you? We don't do feet over here we do metres! I tried that first. Both sides, as I could not remember which way the car was facing, or which wheel I did last. I hoped it would still be in the socket, on the torque wrench, but it wasn't. (I could not find the big Hex socket at first, but that was where it was last used attached to the " drive breaker bar.) Up the drive and down the lane as far as the river bridge = about 100 metres. Trouble is that our drive is two gravel ruts covered in mud, with deep grass in the centre, and on the verges. The lane's not much better! There's no grass in the centre, although some roads around here do have, but the verges are deep grass with ditches. As I said to Lainey on my return:"I needed a metal detector"! Somewhere I have a big 'horseshoe' magnet. If I can find that tomorrow I might drag it up and down the verges. I might ask some of our neighbours if they have a detector? One neighbour, in particular, will probably know exactly who has what!
So I spent today, in the very wet aftermath of Abigail, changing the knackered ball joint and fitting the missing brake dust (mud) shield. I am very wet and very pi55ed off. Lots of problems, which I shall report, with photos, anon!
got all this to look forward too, both sides wat track rods plus axle bushes too! going with the SEAT/Skoda uprated beam bushes and also looking into r32/audi tt front running gear. though its only a family barge so i may not bother
SATURDAY. It did stop raining long enough to take photos! First 2 problems: Broken Brake Wear cables. Nicely wrapped in tape. Broken disc retaining screw. I drilled though and used a screw extractor only for the extractor to shear! It will have to stay for now! Next 2 problems: As I posted below, the previous owner had fitted a FEBI ball joint. While fitting it he managed to cross-thread the rear-most screw! Luckily one can get a 14mm OE spanner onto the captive nuts but it still took a lot of effort to undo it. And, alhough the bolt thread was knackered I managed to clean up the thread in the captive nut. I should have bought new OE bolts and retainer. I shall buy some and then do the job properly. My ball joint splitter is old school Sykes-Pickavant. It would not fit onto the ball joint until I ground away some of the steel at the base. Shame to spoil high quality stuff that I've owned for 40+ years! That was the end of outdoors on Saturday. Bench work to get everything ready for the re-build on Sunday. SUNDAY. This is the mud pit I was working in on Saturday. It's dryer than it was as Lainey went out in the rain on Saturday evening and dug a drainage trench, together with building a gravel bund to stop water running to where I was working. First job to repair the brake wear cables. Re-assembling when well, except I had to re-use the ball joint nut. I have a drawer with new VAG nuts, nice and green, whatever that is, but none the correct thread. Luckily there were no broken splash plate screws but again I did not order new ones and had to dig around for suitable bits. I always use Loctite blue on these types of job for, besides stopping the bolts loosening, it acts as a barrier to stop water ingress into the threads. The car was back on its wheels just as it was getting dark. I had not rushed as I had avoided the worst of the rain. Trouble was that the outside flood light has stopped working and I had difficulty locating all of the tools! MONDAY. Found my splitter at last! Sykes still sell the old one. Note Mini/1100! I quite like this one.
dont envy you working in all that muck I had the same style tool as yours and it cracked in half the first time I tried to use it (cheap crap metal I expect) I went for the scissor type next time and its served me well ever since. ooh, over 10 years now. man I'm getting old, how did this happen?
Flipping great living in the middle of nowhere except for when you want stuff delivered quickly, and I paid a premium for UPS Express Saver! I have never had a garage, and spent most of my youth working at my brother-in-law's farm, so mud is not the worst thing I have worked in! I have always tried to buy the best I can afford. Sykes-Pickavant is always my first choice, if I can afford them. That splitter was bought to do work on Lainey's Mini Cooper C1973. Mini ball joints were a year-by-year job! They were part of Britool, and hence part of Facom, when they bought Britool. Good news is they are now a private company again so the quality should be back to pre-Facom days!
I had a garage for a bit, it even had water and electricity! but it was so full of all my crap I still had to work outside. but still, it was concrete at least so I only ever got wet working underneath rather than muddy. Did an ABF swap on my mates MK2 on his dads gravel driveway, that was very uncomfortable. At least mud is a little soft to lie down on I guess
Massive fault = dangerous! Climatronic can be dangerous! There is no way anyone can adjust Climatronic without taking one's eyes from the road! In our environment we don't need it anyway but, as we are lumbered with it's energy sapping, and weight adding, uselessness, it's a shame that it also makes driving less safe. Finding the correct button to turn on de-mist and adjust the fan is either a massive fumble or one has to look at the display. Either way' it is a worst distraction from the road than even a radio! If one is forced to have air-con crap then the basic air-con system is better as the controls are tactile. The Audi 100 has 3 rotary controls and it is a piece-off-**** to adjust airflow for: Direction - Speed - Temperature
its ok when you get used to it, the demist button is the top left one and toggles demist on/off when you press it so thats no big deal, the rest of the time I just leave it in auto mode. the hot/cold and fan up/down have a little line moulded into the plastic so you can feel where they are without taking your eyes off the road in theory. I suppose it helps that its installed higher up in my mk2 dash than it is in a MK4, I find I have to look down and fumble to find the manual ac dials in our bora even though they are large and tactile since its not my car I'm not used to operating them
Are you saying that if the system is OFF, as it always is in Lainey's car, then just pressing the button only turns the demist on? What about fan speed and temperature? If so, I did not realise! This was just what I needed to do on a cold-wet morning. Shame they did not fit a large switch adjacent to the rear demist button. Mind you, I have moved the ESP switch across so it is next to the rear demist, and mounted the 25J plaque on top of the 2 switch blanks! As you say, the low position makes reading the display very difficult. I cannot see the demist icon without lowering my head. Given that one can get used to the buttons' positions you still can't tell temperature, speed or ditribution without taking you eyes off the road. With tactile controls it is easy to judge everyting by feel alone. Don't use AUTO mode as it eats engine power!
just pressing the demist button toggles the screen vents on and off, it wont turn off the vents and footwell if those are open unless you do that yourself mind. if its first start on a cold day this is no problem as you can do that manually, then once all is well you can just press the 'auto' button to put it all back to automatic regulation. switching the system OFF means you have no ventilation control at all, if you just want to ensure the aircon compressor never engages you tap the 'ECON' button, this means it will carry on in whatever mode you select but never trigger the compressor under any condition regardless of temps. I'll have to test mine to see what happens if system is off and you tap the demist button though as I've not tried that I agree though if you want to see the current status of the system putting it right down there is a mistake for sure, very difficult to see whats going on with it! the later mk5 onward systems have gone back to good old knobs I wonder if you coudl move the panel up to the upper radio slot, though not much use if you got a double din stereo...
I have a fairly dry place to work on the Mk2! Now I have more-or-less finished the outside of the house I have built a tent garage for it. Well the car is dry but the ground, gravel, gets a bit wet when the wind blows rain under the side. I have been trying to sort the paintwork out. The previous owner had a small bump, but had the whole of the lower half re-sprayed. The paint used was falling off, so I have been removing it, and I have pushed out and repaired the dent without using filler. I have removed the side strips as I just don't like them, and they weigh a couple of kilos. My brake piston tool is also Sykes-Pickavant.
