Idea of this thread is to be able to review progress of my golf Its a bit of slow progress with my golf, Its my only car now and at the moment just doing smaller bits but do have a sort of plan for it in the future. This is my second golf, my first being a 1.6 CL [/URL][/IMG] So I got the CL in September 2014, now sold and got the GTI in may 2015 I didn't do loads to the CL it was a great car everything standard and nice and high lol The GTI was planned to be off road for a while, but got in the road within a month I think These are some photos of when first got it [/URL][/IMG] So got it for a bit of a steal price and less than 5 miles away! result So the head was recently ported and polished, running a 280 Kent cam (or 285 I cant remember right number lol) 4 to 1 manifold, new dizzy, coil and leads and some newish JOM coilovers, pretty harsh lol and some other little bits The car was sold as a non runner, used to cut out on idle So after research, and a gunsen gas analyser purchase [/URL][/IMG] seems the co setting has been tweeked a fair bit, 8.6%! spark plugs nice and clean now The sunroof was taped up before, bit of olive oil and an hour of rubbing released the residue (same on the rear quarter) then eventually sorted out the windscreen adhesive that someone put the plastic trim on the arch with before put through MOT original grille sorted out water leak new stereo tried to glue headliner back up - failed new heater matrix and foam other small bits and with help from a mate, replaced clutch, timing belt and steering boots So got it in for MOT happy days! been using it since June now So after mot, new main and lift fuel pumps the main pump replaced by previous owner, didn't replace lift pump and it soon caused the newish main pump to fail! with help from my dad new exhaust fitted, got a jetex half system which looked ridiculous on my small bumper exhaust was on there for couple months before replacing with original (now sold jetex system, big loss of money lol) new CV boots all round after looking into KJET CIS for ages found more problems with my 8v My WUR control pressure to high, got an 8V and 16V WUR from a mate, put 8v one on as running was working to right pressure's. System pressure is in tolerance but is at low end 4.7 bar, going to put some more shims in soon see if makes a difference Got the CIS tester from the states, couldn't find one in UK -trusty Haynes in the corner, more grief then help sometimes lol control pressure should be 3.6 bar?? near that number but mine was out by 1 bar ish im interested to try the 16v wur, does the vacuum make a difference at WOT? I tested it at the moment the control pressure is 0.5 bar lower than what it should be. idle screw kept adjusting itself, o ring fine, screwed back in with bit of grease ok at the moment Cold start didn't work, hunt around with wiring and got it sorted after a few headaches. found a ground issue with the Auxiliary air valve too wiring is a bit messy in the car, I would like to sort the whole loom one day but its all currently working for now! Bumpers and arches painted, and no more horrible rear quarter! painted some other areas on the car too Headliner come out of the car too, done it myself, it broke, it was windy, I lost a small broken off piece, I tried to make it out of fiber glass, I failed lol waiting to pick up a couple of headliners (broken but intact to attempt round 2) currently my view for the past 3 months Here's my seat, the fronts are pretty worn and I'd love to get them sorted or find another pair been hunting since I got the golf, but I may settle for something else soon New radiator water pump thermostat So I spent a good day doing bits on the golf and then taking it out a test run, some bloke didn't see me in their VW touran and reversed into me I was very angry lol lucky didn't hit bumper, was just low enough lol very lucky my granddad is a panel beater, so got it sorted and rattle canned for now got small bumpers with the red stripe, however bit scuffed up so filed them down and filled them a bit with plastic bumper filler (will be interesting to see painted outcome) So didn't realise when bought the car, but getting some welding done for it on Tuesday other areas that are rusty, door has a patch and so does rear arches only gutted about this cos you can only buy the later panel for the rear, (badges are different that's all) well probably done some more bits to date, but Im off out now Will update soon
Update 84 gti So the time has come Ive taken the MK2 off the road and plan to do the following Polybush subframe + cross member KW V1's with mk3 top mounts Possibly 22mm front and 25mm rear anti roll bars Rear beam bush replacement Interior reupholstered Headliner fix + cover (meant to do ages ago lol) Some spray painting 16v brakes Polished P slots will be doing some tests this weekend to see whether I need to do anything to the 8v lump + lots more little bits So haven't done much since last post besides picking up parts and fitting a 16v WUR + set up Here are some picutres of my headliners got 1 decent one, 1 that should be ok to fix and one ruined Also had the welding done on the rear valence lip Since tweeking the KJET still feels like its leaning out too much at high speed Got on the phone to Vince at stealth racing for some advice on setting up WUR (warm up regulator) control pressure and the FPR System pressure (fuel pressure regulator) advised to set control pressure to 3.2 bar (due to 285 lift cam) (currently set to 3.5 bar with 8v WUR) and bring the fuel system pressure up to 5.4 bar (currently 4.6 bar) So here is the fuel pressure regulator in the metering head So stripped it apart and measured the O rings and the shim and ordered these from a website called exact rubber If you do replace these o-rings do not use standard o rings!! you need FKM/VITON O-rings as stated in the picture there fuel resistant! Some other types are not fuel resistant, watch out for ones on eBay! also the two pack together only cost me about 6 quid inc postage When I replaced the o rings it made no difference to the fuel pressure, and no difference to the residual pressure (the pressure the KJET holds to aid hot starts) I would advice replacing o rings if experiencing hot start problems or if they are badly worn I only replaced them cos looked flat/squashed which can cause problems see this picture See the one on the left is the original o ring, squashed and flat replaced with the new one on the right So 16v WUR, drill in the back and reveals an allen key So fits upside down on the 8v block, block of the vaccum line too to the WUR So I now decided to adjust the WUR Control pressure and monitor the Fuel pressure regulator after the o rings So make fuel system live on ignition, without engine running by switching over these relays (I know the black one is the fuel pump relay) How relays normally sit ( Ce1 electrics btw) To this position If you scroll up you'll see how this gauge was fitted to measure the pressures in the KJET system So here is warm control pressure set to 3.2 bar (simply adjust the allen screw slowly outwards and watch the gauge) So here is the system pressure Its rose 0.2 bar with the new O-rings (not quite the 5.4 bar I need) So I rummaged through boxes of shims/washers/nuts and bolts and found another shim the same as in this picture (if you look there Is a sticky on the KJET section which tells you generally how each thickness shim alters the system pressure) So I removed the fuel pressure regulator again, adding an extra shim under the spring and re done the tests Spot on 5.4 bar with extra shim results, Then checked cold control pressure (pressure as soon as fuel system is live, rises quick so keep an eye) Warm control pressure needed slight adjustment but got sat back at 3.2 bar To check residual pressure (the pressure fuel system holds when shut off, to help warm starts) leave gauges in and monitoring control pressure and switch off ignition, Come back after 20 mins and the control pressure shouldn't have dropped more than 1 bar (mine was set to 3.2 bar, this next picture shows after 20 mins control pressure was 2.5 bar so all ok there). After that MAKE SURE SWAP THE RELAYS BACK!! and start her up and check idle and CO % my CO rose 1% not a big problem but ideal to sit at 2% for KJET All this information on setting up KJET, the WUR control pressures and Fuel System pressure, the O -rings and the test equipment needed I found from Club GTI, and other VW forums, Youtube, BMW + Volvo Forums If you want the links let me know but its all out there So today I tested the injector spray pattern and how much was fuel each injector delivers after 30 seconds Found this on something RubJonny posted, swap relays over as before Pull injectors out and put in clear beer bottles (remember which cylinder came from Take boot off top of metering head to access the metering disc thingy (forgot the name) Then switch on the ignition to make fuel system live, you'll notice no fuel comes out of injectors... Then full up the air flap in metering head all the way and watch the spray pattern of all injectors There is outcome, all look even accept third one to me Then did compression test. removed electrical connection for fuel pump under car ensured throttle wide open removed all spark plugs and disabled ignition system (earth the wire from coil Then thread in compression tester So cranked over about 6 times This reading got for cylinders (left to right) 1,3 and 4 so 11 bar / 155-160 psi then got this reading for cylinder 2 10.5 bar / 150 - 155 psi so potentially difference of 10 psi Seems low to me, however I did read that high lift cams will bring down the compression about 10 psi give or take so if I think if I had a standard cam should see somewhere between 170 - 200 psi ?? if someone could let me know or help here would be good! So gonna do a wet test soon and see what results I get then too Other things since last update filled in those small bumpers I got with red stripe, put coat of paint on them found more imperfections and the plastic bumper filler removes the 'texture' of the bumper I could say Anyone tried VW heritage small bumpers?? Got a rough price for interior re-trim, will see whats left in the pot later on lol Also got hold of some 16v brakes already, but they need a proper clean Im actually a bit ****ed off after seeing them in the flesh So was originally hoping to get back on road by summer, however Im not rushing to do it want to get things right! Oh and this is what I want to do to my P-slots too, get em polished up
If you need some 16v calipers shout me as I have a set that I bought as a tryout on a project. Paid 100 for them but now no use to me. Brand new Budweg refurbed jobs. 50 to you to get rid. Shipping maybe 9 by Hermes. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Oh should say they have done about 50 miles. So not really brand new. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
MK2 golf GTI 1984, rolling project update may 2016 been a while since I updated this so mainly just been removing underseal repaired headliner - awaiting to test fit sent off seats to get re-upholstered today! getting ready to take engine out bay for paint plus got some cover for the mk2 let the pics do the talking he loves getting in the way lol after removing wing this part of the piller had some surface rust so I thought first ill try some of that FE123, I sanded it back after about 2 months and seem to of held up well, I will keep an eye on this and once it becomes flakey metal I will then get it welded got spare 8v kjet + bits for 60, some bits will get used others will be sold would like to get hold of a new door soon! tiny hole, will get this done too behind the primer its rusty! just to prevent it getting worse while outside those rusty as 256 hubs I brought, cleaned up after a few hours in the garage got this cool to scale model as a gift from my grandad too some rust just starting in top corner of the wing, by scuttle some pics of headliners, I had 3 1 all intact, but broken 2 tried to fix but then didn't fit 3 totally trashed so fixed the first one, then measured and cut up the 2nd one and 3rd one to make 1 good headliner once I've test fitted I will sell one looks bad with the tape but this area was pretty snapped/broken up cut out from broken headliner rested on top of the one to be fixed again! so going forward - more underseal removal of the lifted patches, then to sort out the rusty bits with some new metal and for the only pitted areas just gonna get it back as well as I can, use some fe 123 and prime and reseal with something like gravitex or raptor I know FE-123 is not the best but Im only using it on the pitted metal that is still strong this car I hope to use as a good weather car so it shouldn't see to much abuse! -getting welding done for rear arch, petrol tank bracket + other areas - re apply underseal - get engine bay empty for paint, not sure whether to buy a larger compressor as currently have use of dad's 50L 1.5hp any comments from you guys for paint would be appreciated, i.e. spray guns, compressor recommendations + prep - then all the rest of the stuff that I said at beginning of the thread! bushes, coilovers, polished p slots - also got some por 15 to do the subframes, wishbones and crossmember when its all out Feels like this is gonna take me a while to do! I'm only 20 so quite a lot of what im doing is new to me but im keen to learn and love working on my car! will try to update more often now, as sure ill be spending a lot more time now the weathers nicer
small update MK2 GTI small update Engine out Seats got re-trimmed! well happy cost me more than the car! also got new coilovers, anti roll bars, powerflex bushes next step welding on arch, sill, battery tray + more areas oh and rear beam off to do rear bushes also test fitted the headliners finally, one is spot on, the other fits but the holes for sun visors and handles are slightly off so once I sort that, ill re cloth them both and sell one on!
http://richmondjames.co.uk/contact/1972869 Richmond James is where I got them done, there right around the corner from me Based In waterlooville Hampshire
Mk2 GTI project update An update of past month Engine loom out, servo off Rear Beam off to re paint and bushes re painted underside awaiting stonechip, only treating rusty patches not doing the whole underside. Takes forever and most of the underseal is sound Subframe, wishbones etc prep'd with por 15 metal ready and ready for Paint Rear driver arch sections welded New exhaust mount welded Got a patch done on sill - not really happy with it Painted a spare 7 slat grille Looking to re do all brake lines, rear ones need replacing! Probably done more again here's some pictures So suspension turrets have some surface rust up there, bit gutted about that! at least its not rotted through! left in fe123 for now, sanded back, zinc primed and to be resealed New petrol tank bracket too exhaust mount, old one rusted up! out for a clean Just some bits ready for por 15 the metal prep really get into existing rusty scabs like on that subframe Not sure what colour to paint yet? Thinking tornado red or black as it was Beam off, took longer than I expected but now the hard part the bushes - Satin black Halfords on the grille, scuffed with scotch pad first and it came out really well Took me at least half an hour to tape up the red stripe!! Found this lurking underneath the sealant too, I covered it in Fe123 for now but I want to get it done and understand this is gonna be a sh*t job to do Im looking to get the car re-sprayed if funds allow once I've done most of the work like stonechipping, refit of subframes and brake line etc. Has anyone tackled this job before? What's the best way to approach it? Im outside of the Portsmouth area in Hampshire, do any of you recommend a decent body shop or resto shop that can do a job like this and paint the car? I've not done any welding myself on this car yet, I have got someone I know involved and I'll be honest I don't want them to attempt this area! 1st section of rear arch, I accidently put that hole in the groove I got someone I know to weld the arch, petrol tank bracket, new exhaust mount and patch on sill. I got what I paid for really, but not impressed with a patch on sill He welded the new section into that groove and it made the plastic trim fit off a bit so my attempt to try and grind it out a little ended up putting that little hole there So I've been filling and priming, getting it to look right, sorted out the little whole with some fiberglass filler The second section of rear arch before filling After first skim of filler And another pic of the other side Currently 1 small skim of filler left to do, and re prime, sand, top coat and some wet sanding So here is the patch on the sill, I just think it looks messy as **** and not happy with it Brake Servo ready to be painted, don't have a before picture but it was very rusty on the bottom This is one of the 16v callipers I brought a while back, I think its just a little bit rusty lol wish I didn't buy them now more money down the pan Im hopefully going to get it shot blasted, wont cost me anything but beer tokens but Im wondering if its too far gone where the dust seal for the piston sits in the calliper? Moving forward, finish welding - Battery tray, re do patch on sill, its not rusty on outside but after removing door cards I can see its had some repair work before which hasn't been protected from the inside and its rotten underneath the stonechip on the sill! and see who will take on the job of that area inside the suspension turret Stonechip the bottom waxyoil box sections rear beam bushes and paint and fitted to car paint subframes, new bushes and fitted to car fit new coilovers and arbs new kunnifer brake lines made up, and fit new braided lines And everything else lol
That sill dont look the best, did you cut all the rust out before u tried to weld it? Hard to tell from pic but assuming the holes between the weld are from blow through? I find this happens either when settings is to high, or metal is that thin from grinding rust back its just vapourises, best to cut it past any rot and go from there. Sorry if im telling you how to suck eggs and not trying to be patronising.
yeah not all the rust was cut back,I don't think who I got to do the job realised that. I didn't do the welding as I've only welded a couple of times years ago and not on car bodywork You could only see it was rusty patch on the sill from taking the rear door cards out! the stonechip was fine! I will be getting it re done, turns out my cousins boyfriend works out for a car resto company so I am waiting to see if he would be interested in doing some welding for me
Thats cool, just giving my 10p lol with Mig welding though it's imperative to have a good earth and clean metal
Mk2 GTI Update: Rear Beam Bushes Amongst other things I've started to tackle the ream beam bushes I've found guides on other forums for this Tools Drill, Drill bits, Saw, digital vernier measurement tool (or tape measure), brass wire drill attachment photos of worn bush, second not very clear sorry cant think of its proper name, the drill bit with a circular saw is very good for eating up the bush once the inner metal sleeve/tube is out used 7 - 10 mm drill bits Drilled into the bush, snapped a drill bit Once inner piece out, used the circular saw bit to eat bush up Then cleaned up with brass wire attachment Next cutting the sleeve of the bush, I was being very careful not to cut the through the sleeve entirely where it sits through the beam Tonight/Tomorrow I have been given an air chisel to beat the sleeve through Going to be easier than using a hammer and chisel/punches Also purchased some pitman arm pullers, then to buy some threaded rod and wind the new ones in! Once there in time to paint the beam and subframes etc Other bits I've done, Ready for second coat of primer on the floor/under body patches then stonechip this weekend (hoping it doesn't rain) After using por15 metal prep on my bare metal brake servo, and rad fan housing it seemed to not react as before and looks like this So I've sanded it down again, and prime'd them both Unfortunately got runs on the fan housing , Pictures to follow!
Nice work there looking good and I think it's only going to get better , well done Don't worry about runs they sand off and you just add an extra layer of protection
MK2 GTI Update Done a fair bit this week after work, want to do as much as I can in these 'summer' months lol Jobs done: Rear beam bushes Painted a lot of bits with por15 cars on four stands Stonechipped most of rear underside of the car And more little bits Got the old bush sleeve out of rear beam I made a right mess of one of them I accidently chiselled into the housing but it wasn't that bad, needle file and sanded to remove the burs Heres tool made up used to wind the new bushes in I bought two pitman arm pullers to use to wind these in, but then my dad came home with these large sockets, thread, nuts washers and metal plates which did make life easier make a tool up! Those two little sockets crucial for spreading load of winding the bushes in There meant to protrude by 8mm according to Haynes, however we could only get this one in 6.3mm as it was started to deform the bush shape by squeezing the rubber into the sleeve The other one went in fine Ill admit my Dad did most of the winding in of the new bushes, while I held the other spanner and beam down! it was starting to squish the top of the rubber into the sleeve, if that make sense from the photo So picked up a pretty much rust free oem passenger wing from another mk2 owner round the corner from me, it got a 1.8t in it And while I picked it up he gave me for free a 16v calliper, same as my awfully rusted on in previous posts So got the bleed nipple out, however I cannot get the piston out with compressed air is there a good tool out there to do this, or heard you can use a grease gun http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mkatt/media/rad fan housing run_zps1dshcnvj.jpg.html?sort=3&o=21 I just started to sand the rad fan housing, and thought Id take a picture of the runs! Smoothed back welds from petrol tank bracket for some paint to look nicer, despite it will be covered by the suspension turret carpets its starting to rot through a little on the turret but hardly anything Got some Gravitex on the bottom finally, Haven't done the whole car yet as still want to get some bits welded and I also ran out I got myself absolouty caked in gravitex, wearing shorts and tshirt as it was really hot lol Primered everything with rattle can Isopon zinc 182 anti rust primer Used Tiger seal for all the seams Then coated with Gravitex using a Sealey undercoating gun set at about 4 - 4.5 bar on the compressor Make shift cleaning area, and practice sprays My last rusty patch under the car, ground back and some more FE123 applied Didn't completely seal up the top round the petrol filler as I still yet to sort the rust out up there Gonna overcoat it with another layer I think, I did try to do a second coat, but it just blew the first layer up and you can see spots of primer. Think I needed to let it dry a bit longer before attempting a second coat. The gravitex is much thinner when it dries, compared to the VW stuff Also this I have finally painted my beam, subframe, wishbones and cross member and other bits with POR15 Im happy with the results, and will upload photos in the next post Photo of degreaser used for everything, available at screwfix Oh also bought two more axel stands, Will make life easier for stonechipping the sill plates, and then I can remove all the front running gear and sort out the front end soon Moving forward.............. ill figure out what to start on next later!
