got an agu engine + o2j box with just under 40k on the clock sat waiting for its new home in my mk2, question is what to change/upgrade before it goes in?? I'm swapping out the original dual mass flywheel/clutch set up already, but not familiar with these engines or any problems with them, advice please!!
Well, you can change the water pump, timing belt and tensioner. This is something you will have to do in a few km's, and why not do it now, as it's out!
Well thats a nice short list, is the water pump prone to failure then? the pump on my old kr done 120000miles! Are there any particular brands to get or stick to genuine stuff??
The 1.8T water pump impellers wear. VW have a replacement unit which doesn't have the problem - it's generally recommended to replace the water pump, otherwise, if it fails, you can guess what the problem will be!
Will I have to order a specific prt no. for the better pump or did it just replace the one that wears out??
The factory mk4 pump has a plastic impeller that can start to slip &/or break up at high miles leading to overheating and a rapid H.G failure. I have just replaced the pump with an aftermarket pattern part with metal impeller on my wives mk4. Available from GSF or any similar motor factors.
What mk2 is it? Id upgrade the brakes to 280mm. If they're 16v hubs you can just get calipers and carriers from a mk3 16v golf and 280mm discs Use 02A engine mount brackets all round, it'll sit further forward so the timing belt doesn't foul the master cylinder I put heat proofing on the bulk head to stop my feet cooking Oil, filter and plugs is always a good idea! I did the exhaust manifold gasket as its easier when the engine is out of the car Clean all the earth points n stuff What management are you using? If its not OEM, you can remove the Secondary Air Injection system too, makes the bay a bit neater Andy
Thats a bit more like the sort of list I was expecting, being my first conversion I was guessing I hadn't considered half the things I should have & the Qpeng site made it look far to simple to trust so thought I'd ask the most technically gifted forum around!! (Hoping flattery helps ) Going in to a 16V but Upgraded to 280mm already! Didn't like the idea of grinding part of my m/c off as suggested in the Qpeng guide!! O2A mounts?? fom what a Corrado? Mk3? New from Vw or too pricey? (My new engine looks so clean I don't want to ruin it with rusty mounts) & I've got Mk2 Vibratech mounts will I still be able to use them?? Does it get that hot then?? Ant particular brands of heat proofing to consider?? Already sorted, with the aforementioned heat will an oil cooler help If I can fit one in somewhere?? Good plan hadn't thought of that!! Engine hasn't even covered 40k yet so is good & clean & I'm going to give the bay a good clean & repair some rust Also got new earth straps anyway as my old ones were shagged!! Was going to use the Qpeng kit or similar so I could keep the Digifiz I only just fitted!! But nothing ordered yet so suggestions welcome!! Secondary Air Injection system??
You want Corrado G60 rear engine mount bracket (this looks the same as the Mk2 8v Gti one but the top of it is thicker and pushes the engine forward 10-15mm so it misses the M/C) I used a Mk2 Diesel mount and filled the voids in with Stikaflex to make it stiffer. Use Corrado G60 gearbox mount bracket and Mk2 diesel mount. Corrado G60 front mount bracket and a solid front mount. I also installed polyurethane crossmember bushes. All the above it perfect and the engine barely moves but doesn't really vibrate that much. Mike
Regarding the water pump. The cheapish option from GSF doesnt work out so well on my track used 1.8t. It is the one with the metal impeller and may be the GSF own brand of Flusser. I have since been (well) informed that the design of the impeller on cheaper pumps is bad and at high revs instead of pumping the water around, it just cavitates the water i.e. creates air bubbles. My water temp shoots right up as soon as I start pushing it. Its alright if you just pootle around town. Not very good for piece of mind! Its a ***** to change it with the engine in (esp as mines in a mk1) as it involves the cam belt too, that and it lines up with my chassis leg might have to lift or lower engine to remove the pump yet ( I also had a 40k engine and box and since I just chucked it in Ive found that my clutch throwout bearing is shot. Thats a box off job! Worth checking it!! Good luck!
It doesn't get excessively hot but we also did a mk1 20vt and my mates feet were getting pretty warm!! Its only around the turbo area as the turbo gets mega hot when you're giving it the beans I used THIS stuff with the spray on contact adhesive You can fit an oil cooler if you want but don't really need one unless you're going to track your car at all, even then not essential Qpeng isn't hard to fit, and thats coming from someone with very little car wiring experience If ya get stuck, ring Ben at qpeng, he made the system and certainly knows his stuff, is always happy to help I also used the Qpeng custom exhaust downpipe, made things a lot easier VWD40 covered the mounts Yeah you will be able to use the Vibratech mounts as far as i know Here's a GUIDE on how to do the engine clean up thing but I used an AGU and it didn't seem to have half the bits on this guide so just removed the pipe from the top of the throttle body and blocked both ends. Also if you're not fitting Air-Con remove the pump if its still there, you'll need a shorter belt but its worth it My 20v build thread is in my sig if ya want a nose at what I did. I used the original 16v front and back mount in that thread but i've since changed them EDIT: Get a slimline fan too, you cant use the 16v one as it sticks out to far, LINK
i have all my engine mounts from a mk3 16v gti, will these be good enough as i have heard they are thats why i bought them? cheers
When installing the engine, there is part of the loom which (to me) must be on the engine when you put it in. i.e. loads harder to install when the engine is in situ. It's the bit that incorpoates the injector / coil packs and (the tricky bit) knock sensors. I think it's pretty much the whole engine loom tbh I was going to put my engine in first, then loom it, but it's really tight on some of the connectors - which would drive you nuts!
I thought you could use 16v ones, I bought them out of a raddo, not fitted them yet but was under the impression they'd work, hope they do!
Yes they will but I suspect the rear mount bracket is the one that doesn't kick the engine forward. Post up a pic of it.
I might just mock-up the whole thing in the bay first then? as I'm going to attempt to fit a factory mk2 A/c setup at the same time, I'm sure I'll have to butcher the slam panel & bumper (atleast) to fit the rad, condenser + intercooler! I'll be able to see how easy/hard the wiring will be then!
