Hi all I have just converted an S reg SDi Caddy van to TDi (1Z) from a MK3 Golf I stripped the MK3 loom to just leave all the wires that go to/from ECU I then taped this up so is kind of stand alone loom I have fitted this in the van, it plugged straight in to the loom on the engine I have connected to all the sensors under the bonnet (N75, MAF, EGR etc) In the van all I had to connect was the throttle pedal, immo box and G1 + G2 connectors Did this, van started first flick of the key, HAPPY DAYS Fitted exhaust on etc so could take it from the workshop to home to fit the interior but this is where the problem started........ It seems that just as it starts to come on boost, it suddenly holds back.... Wont pull any more....... I got it home and fitted a boost gauge to see if it was loosing boost, but it doesnt Will hold 1 bar, but wont rev If it were a petrol its like its got no ignition advance I have plugged my vagcom in and pump timing etc all seem to be good MAF readings seem fine The only screen thats puzzling me, and I dont know why I'm getting these reading is in ENGINE MEASURING BLOCKS BASIC SETTINGS Group 07 Temperatures It reads Fuel temp -30.1*C Intake Air Temp -40.5*C Coolant temp -18.0*C I DONT THINK SO!!!!! Temp gauge in instruments is reading 90*C If I disconnect the temp sensor on the engine, gauge drops but VagCom reading stays the same......... I'm guessing I have put a live or earth where it shouldn't be but wiring is not my strong point....... Can anybody shed a bit of light on where I should be looking please I have wiring diagrams but not current flow so cant check what voltage in what wire etc. Although MAF readings are right, in fault codes it says MAF short to plus (00553 code-nothing on Ross Tech) but as I say, starts and runs, just doesnt pull...... Any help would be much appreciated Many thanks, Gavin
Definitely a problem with some wiring somewher. When I get on my other computer I will check the ecu wiring diagram for you to see any common wires between those temp senders.
Bit off thread (sorry); Interesting conversion, and problem. I have a 1z on the workshop floor and a full car harness. I started the disconnections well, labelling everything under the bonnet. But a mate helped me strip the car, so removing the through bulkhead stuff was a bit 'tear it apart'. Its mostly linked back up now, but I still have unconnected plugs/sockets How did you approach the stripping of the harness to just maintain what you needed to run the engine? Help appreciated if forthcoming, as I havent done anything like this before.
Held the 2 plugs that go into the ecu and stripped all the black looming tape off. The loom goes for about a ft as a fat loom then splits in to 2 1 part goes towards large connector for engine other heads in towards the fusebox,but also heads to OSF with connectors for MAF, N75 and EGR valves The end that goes to the fuse box has :- G1 & G2 connectors on plug for throttle pedal plugs for brake and clutch pedal grey n white wire for immo box and a couple of other randoms that hang about, 1 being for cruise control (flat black connector with 4 wires) Think thats it from memeory Basically cuttin out light, wiper and ABS wiring I left the vans original loom for lights and wipers Does any of that make sense?
see my sig for a wiring diagram, from your diagnostics id say you are missing a sensor earth. see pages 3,4 and 7, look at '220 earth connection (sender earth)'. this runs back to ecu pin 33 so check the various sensor earth pins for continuity back to the ecu.
Thanks RJ, I will check that I clicked on ur link, but was told i needed an account I set up an account Now when i click ur link, it goes to Google and says NOTHING MATCHES YOUR SEARCH!!!! I HATE COMPUTERS!!!!! What am i doing wrong now?
TDI Conversion (everything you need to know) http://www.vwt4forum.co.uk/showthread.php?t=95358 Loads of info for 1Z installs on the T4 Forum
must have been a problem with the site, works fine for me even when im logged out of google! does this work: https://docs.google.com/leaf?id=0B_...WRhZS00MzBkLTk2MTEtNGIyZDFmMDg0NWM2&cindex=72
Ha ha ha!! Was tryin to view in mobile not desktop (option at bottom of screen!) Doh!! @Brookster - thanks for that,great info there 1 question though, I have no F fuse box connector in the loom I fitted I cut it out of the 1Z loom, but left the original van loom in Lookin on the A2resource site, the wires into the F connector are starter, alternator exciter wire and others that don't go to the ecu. This shouldn't be a problem should it? As I said, it started and drove home from yard ok. No warning lights on or anything, just won't pull...... I'm gonna have a look at it again tomorrow, been busy last couple of nights I'll report on my findings Thanks for your help Guys Gavin
Check that connector 33 on your ecu plug is making continuity with the earth sides of your temp sensors. Probably the easiest one to get to is the intake air. Disconnect the ecu plug and intake air temp sensor plug and measure for continuity between pin 33 and the brown white wire on the intake air temp sensor plug. I think you might find their is a break in that earth circuit somewhere.
theres nothing on F that you need specifically, but its easier to keep it if say doing a swap into a mk2 with the tdi box as it has the starter, alternator and alternator plugs in the right place for the TDI cable shift box and alternator wiring. but you can use the old stuff no worries
Well..... .... the saga continues...... Its definately an earth problem I did the continuity test between terminal 33 and sensor earths All good Tested Vagcom again, same readings Disconnected the AIT sensor, no difference to readings Disconnected temp sensor, no difference to readings (on vagcom) So, frustrated at this point, started bridging wires with a fused piece of wire and when I bridged 2 wires on the temp sensor plug the revs dropped to normal revs (It had been revving a little high) and seemed smoother Checked vagcom readings and temps all spot on Happy Days The 2 wires bridged were ecu earth (brown/blue) and the sensor earth (brown/white) thats bolted to block........ So this would tell me the ecu isnt earthing properly It must be be earthing though or it wouldnt run at all.... Temps before earthing were all minus as before After earthing :- Fuel temp 32.9 Air intake temp 24.3 Coolant temp 74.7 There were 5 fault codes in engine module before bridging the earth They were :- 00553 - Mass air flow sensor (G70) 28-00 - Short to plus 00539 - Fuel Temperature Sensor (G81) 30-00 - Open or Short to Plus 00777 - Accelerator Position Sensor (G79) 27-00 - Implausable Signal 00741 - Brake Pedal Monitoring 27-10 - Implausable Signal - Intermittent 00527 - Intake Manifold Temperature Sensor (G72) 30-00 - Open or Short to Plus They went after bridging though...... I checked the main ECU to battery earth and thats good I have an earth from gearbox/block bolt to battery Am i missing a head to battery/body earth....???? Any more help? Thanks for the pointers so far Gavin
the brown/white wire to block is probably the dash earth, simply tap into the ecu pin 33/sensor earth somewhere and earth it to the block
Done that All looks good now wired in an avry mod (?) but not tried it or road tested the van yet Going to get a seat in tonight and try it up the road I'll report back as to how it goes Thanks All Gavin
Hi mate !!! I know this thread is yonks old but need some help with my s reg caddy tdi conversion same as yours. I have an AHU tdi sitting in a golf on my drive ready to donor into my caddy. I can pull the engine no sweat but wiring I'm not the best at lol ! You said your ecu had 2 plugs but mine only has one big one so I'm thinking me chopping into loom to isolate off lights etc isn't poss ? Also did you caddy run an over the top gearbox cable that's different to the golf gearbox top arm system (which did you end jo using ? Also which way did you go with immo because the golf key is as smooth as a babies bum now and my caddy key is sweet. I've pulled out immo box and barrel coil but the grey white wire is a proper pain in the butt so I've left that in there for now but do I need it or will the caddy have same wiring so I can just change out the immo box ???? Really sorry to pick your brains mate but just need a few pointers so I don't do some stuff I don't need to lol Cheers bud