Hi, i'm looking for advice regarding the first start-up and running in of my freshly rebuilt 20vt engine in my Corrado. To begin with the engine specs are: AEB running on AGU loom and management K04 turbo 3" MAF housing 82.5mm forged pistons Forged rods Ported and polished head port matched manifolds 3" turbo downpipe into 2.5" exhaust BAM fuel rail and injectors 3" Badger5 turbo intake pipe 4 bar FPR The concerns I have are that the ECU won't control the engine well enough during the running in period before I can get the car onto some rollers for mapping and risk the safety of the engine. This being mainly because of the 3" MAF housing being larger than standard and the larger intake and exhaust pipework although, would this be offset by the larger injectors? I am open to and advice or recommendations as this is all very new to me. Hopefully I will be at the stage where I can fire it up in a couple of days Thanks
Hi there, The first fire up...Yes,very scary 20 minutes or so. Everyone has there own method for this. You don't say if your on OEM managment or stand alone.But if it's OEM and with the stock map then I would simply use the stock ancillary's,such as the FPR,injectors,MAF,etc. The engine won't care about the size of your pipe work,but it will care if you try to fire it up with a stock map and larger than stock ancillary's...It will quite possibly damage it to for the following reasons. The critical points in this phase are lubrication and heat.So If it fires up and doesn't run smoothly immediately you risk damage. This is how I do it...... As soon as it fires,you must bring the rpm's straight up to around 2000 and hold it there for around 10 to 20 minutes or until your oil is warm and then spend another 10 minutes varying the speed up and down say 300 rpm,spending a few minutes at each of those speeds.By this time your motor will be fully warmed up and any potential problems will have surfaced by then. At this point you can let it idle for a little to be sure that all is well. Some people cringe at 2000 on a fresh motor,but it's ok because there is almost no load on it at all.The reason for this is that it builds oil pressure very quickly and maintains it when the oil is hot.Also,the bearing journals spend much less time in any one area and there by reduce the risk of hot spots from forming.If your using new cams then this is of even more importance as the pressure encountered at the followers is enormous.You must not turn a fresh cam slowly......Ever! Once your happy,dump the oil and filter and replace with new.This is also important and cheap by comparison.You only need the cheapest nasty oil money can buy for this.Your going to spend some time running it in I assume,so there is no need for high performance expensive lubricants,that's for later.Unless your going straight to the strip from the mappers that is. Iv'e seen guy's wince at the thought of discarding 20 quids worth of oil and filter in a 10 grand motor.Crazy...... And that's it.Just don't let the motor run poorly, idle or overheat in this phase and all should be good. If at any point your not happy because something leaks or gets a little hotter than you want,or it runs poorly.Shut it down,fix the issue and go again.Watch everything everywhere while this is going on,and if you have one,use an oil pressure gauge to. Hope it helps All the very best O.T.
I be inclined to pull off the coilpack/ injector connectors first and keep on turning the engine over to get the oil around the engine.... until the battery is flat, before your attempt to properly start it.
Aye use cheap mineral oil as synthetic oil doesn't let the new rings bed in properly the 2000 to 3000 rpm you only need to do that if it's got new cams best to just drive it and slowly build up the revs decelerating in gear is just as important a thing some people don't realize nothing stop you bedding it in on the rollers if needed
Thanks for all of the advice. I should have specified it is a standard OEM ECU. It looks like I will need to swap back to the original injectors and MAF housing before start-up. I am just waiting on a bit of piping for the coolant system then all is good to go hopefully
Hi sorry to hop on thread but I'm in similar with 1st start up on new fresh built 1.8t but I've a gt28rs genesis 550cc injectors running oem me7 management, so I have no standard hardware , is there anything different to do being it's not standard, can I or should I get a base map put on ecu by my mapper (bill at badger5), cheers all
AEB, premapping, needs at least the HEGO, AGU injectors and MAF to match AGU 06A90618** calibration. You can drive it around at light loads without issue.
I'm frustratingly close to this running. I have fuel and have checked the injectors firing, but I have no spark! There is a constant 12v at pin 15 on the coilpack plugs and no I'm a bit stumped. Are there any checks I can do or things to look for? Thanks
is the ECU AEB or AGU? The spark module wires are switched around between the AGU and AEB looms check ecu pin 1 and the coilpack lives have 12v with ignition on AND cranking, just in case you tapped to a X feed by mistake, and pin 3 needs permanent live. check the engine speed measuring block while cranking, if it doesnt go up the ecu isnt seeing a signal from the crank sensor
The spark module is AGU and the ECU is AGU too. with the difference in wiring between the AGU and AEB spark module, i'm guessing that the AEB coilpacks won't match to AGU spark module? thanks for the all the tips
I tend not to say much in posts like these however, from speaking to the owner on another matter, the ECU is an EU2 06A906018CG module. As a result crank sensor will be picked up if diagnosed as being no code ( no problem), intermittent or implausible. On AGU and other M3.8.3 control systems, a 4 channel ignitor does exist that fires the COPs after being triggered by the ECU. It is not common for these to fail but they do and being on a converted car also increases the risk on something gone wrong during the process.
AGU and AEB coipacks are the same part numbers so thats no issue, does the fuel pump run while cranking?
my thoughts were if the ecu is triggering the pump, then we know it should also be trying to trigger the spark, and if so possibly point at the spark moduel beign at fault. if there is no fuel, then the ecu isnt trying to trigger a spark, so issue is before the module