Ok thanks for the help. I'll get it running upto around 100 - 102 on the laptop and if no luck then I'll swap switches
These are the wire colours I have to brake and clutch switches. I'm going to add ign live to the brown/blue as black/blue don't exist!
Ok all wired up and this is the vcds result. No pedals pressed... Brake pedal ONLY... Clutch pedal ONLY.... Is that normal? Thought it was 000 when nothing pressed! Maybe I need to use a brake light switch instead so I works the opposite way around and I don't get this code?
I found the other thread that dubnutter made about his issues when he swapped to the Audi 16bit ecu and I'm unsure if I need a brake light switch from a golf or a clutch switch from another model. Took it for a ride today, about 50 miles, no cruise but blew off some dust
You might already have a suitable switch if you have any spare brake light switches left around from your swaps. What you need is one that will break the circuit when the clutch pedal is pressed.
Ok I'll have a look. On my pedal, the switch is pressed when the clutch is dipped. When the clutch is released, the switch is untouched. I'll just try out all that fit and see if I can get the 000 back in measuring blocks. Cheers
looking at the wiring diagrams the mk3 type switches seem to work the same way as Audi, i.e. clutch & cruise brake switch are closed when NOT pressed, and brake switch closed when pressed. The code is referring to the cruise control switch, not the clutch or brake switches though but double check the ecu wiring: 17 - clutch switch 20 - cruise brake switch (pin 3) 44 - brake light switch (pin 4) brake switch: 1 - permanent live 2 - ignition live 3 - cruse brake switch - ecu pin 20 4 - brake lights on - ecu pin 44 clutch switch can be wired either way round just goes ignition live on one pin and ecu pin 17 on t'other. Electrically you should see ignition live on the ecu clutch switch wire and cruise brake switch wire when NOT pressed, and no voltage on these but 12v on the brake light switch wire when pressed
after much squinting at the Audi AFN diagram, the aum/auq diagram, and the mk4 -> mk2 cruise diagram drawn by Gloves88 in my OEM thread, I think this is how you need to wire the stalk: 66 & mk2 cruise switch black wire - ignition live 35 - mk2 cruise switch red wire 34 - mk2 cruise switch blue wire 58 - mk2 cruise switch white wire + warning LED if desired
Ahhh! I thought the code was referring to the clutch switch! I'll get to look at the wiring for the stalk itself now then! On vcds it does ping a digit, so to speak, when I operate the different buttons on it but I'll dig into the wiring and see what's happening. It's very odd that it didn't throw this code in before I added 12v ign live to the pedal switches Thanks for all the info though rubjonny and m1keh
The audi and the mk4 golf have the same brake swtiches. But I still think you have the wrong clutch switch (probably a mk3 golf brake switch) as it should be showing 0 in vcds when not pressed. Can you check the output of it to the ecu wire when pressed and when not pressed?
Yes I'll check the output today when I get a sec. Missus got me laying decking...in this heat For what it matters - clutch switch pn: 1HO MWO 927 189 D Listed as clutch switch
Hi guys. Finally got round to trying another switch for the clutch. Shows as normal in vcds now with no fault codes. I still need to test drive it and then if still no luck I'll test what rubjonny and m1keh suggested although there is now a noticeable change in the sound of the engine when the clutch it dipped as though backing off the fuel. Think it'll be ok Cheers
Oh and another thing I have noticed that may or may not be an issue for the cruise.... On the MFA, the digital mph only reads at like 16mph or something. Will this have an impact on the cruise? Also the MFA oil temp doesn't work and I'd quite like it to if anyone can point me in the right direction?
the mph display is an average every few seconds and doesnt show speed in real time, the fact it works at all suggests all is ok though. If you go into the secret menu find the speed pulses setting and you can see real time input from the mfa speed sensor, you'll get 4 pulses per sender revolution which works out just over 6000 pulses per mile for the oil temp look for green/black wire for the sensor, and earth this gauge should show full. if it does duff sensor, if not wire break
On the front of the engine is a green/black wire dangling that I assumed was a spare. I'll check what colour wire is currently hooked upto the sensor then and report back.
Ok so cruise doesn't work still so I'll carry out the tests on the stalk / ecu pinout as previously mentioned and see where I'm at. On the oil temp readout - Looking at sensor here... There is a yellow wire connected and a green/black wire hanging loose. They both lead to here - BUT this is where the green/black wire ends. The yellow seems to continue up the engine loom. Earthing either wire makes no difference to the display. Although I drove with both unplugged and the oil light and buzzer went nuts for a short while till I cycled the key. I'm not desperate for it to work but I'd like it to! What ecu pin is the green/black ?
Yes. I figured that last night after looking at the wiring diagram Not sure I have an oil temp sensor.
