More unidentified connecters around the fusebox if anyone has can assist... Only 2 terminals, but 4 wires A pos and reg that goes into the door pillar And this single wire with odd connector. Updates to follow on the car.... Including; exhaust, clutch, grill, and hopefully an MOT!
2 pin is headlight range control motors, ignore 1 pin red is live for interior light and goes to the matching plug on rear wiring loom 1 pin brown is earth for interior light and goes to claw 1 pin red/brown is key-in-ignition live for the radio from pin SU on ignition switch to a wire on the dash harness
Thanks Jonny. I saw a posted on Facebook a few weeks ago, can't even remember what some fella was asking, and you gave a great detailed answer to something and the next comment was someone questioning whether you were right. Don't know why but it made me laugh.
Well, the conversion is officially finished! MOT last Thursday. My regular place was booked up for 2 weeks so tried a new tester... Was fairly confident of a pass, however on the way the nearside indicator did the doubleclicking thing - Probably the front bulb as I put clear indicators on for the MOT. Little bit annoying. Anyway got a phone call to say if it was only the bulb he would have passed it, but the offside front wheel bearing is very bad! Strange as I didnt feel it and it's not been an advisory before. So I went to the garage for a chat, the MOT tester has a Mk2 and all the lads have Beetles, Transporters etc. He said if it is really bad the hub could be damaged and need replacing... or the driveshaft nut could be loose. I took the cap off the wheel and NO DRIVESHAFT NUT!! Idiot. Anyway I found the nut in my garage and picked the car up Friday morning. Spoke to a different bloke this time. He said I must have paid alot for the professional engine conversion! I said I did it in my garage! He seemed impressed that I could manage that and not check the car has driveshaft nuts on. So quick re-test and job done! Very chuffed that there were no issues with any engine / conversions parts that I had touched. So put a few miles on it over the weekend. Engine pulls well, gears feel solid. No leaks, no overheating. Very happy. The only issue I can think of is the slightly notchy steering. I don't think the steering wheel is physically sticking on something, it's notchy for another reason. I am running the Mk4 power steering pump but I have red fluid as per mk2 spec. What's the best solution here as the pump is mk4 but the rack is mk2??? Couple of photos of me letting my girlfriend take over... Booked into Badger 5 for some mapping next month because currently car is a poultry 150bhp standard. Future plans include brake and suspension upgrade, maybe over the winter
So I've put a couple of hundred miles on the old gal in the last couple of weeks, car is getting more attention than ever from random people! A few photos what I took... Saturday I went to pick up a pal to go the pub, turned into an industrial estate to cut through it and BANG. Looked in the rear view mirror and I was loosing all my oil. Smashed the sump already!!! About 200 miles it took me So that was a joy. Towed it back to my mates driveway and went to the pub. Whilst there I decided a shallow sump would be the best option to avoid the same thing in the future. However the ECS Tuning one that Awesome GTI sell is on a long back order. I am booked into Badger 5 next week to I have just ordered a standard sump and oil from GSF. Hopefully it will be up and running in a couple of days although I haven't jacked the car up yet. Maybe I should raise the suspension and admit to my Dad, my mate, my girlfriend, work colleagues etc that the car is too low. Hmmmm. What are my other options? Some sort of engine mount raisers? Oh well, onwards and upwards!!!
How about a reinforced sump? https://prorace-engineering.co.uk/p...ing-06a-1-8t-baffled-and-reinforced-sump-pan/
Thanks I like the look of that. Is it not just a more expensive sump to get fooked when I next hit something? Or is the idea that it is too strong to break???
thats the idea yeah, or you could build yourself a skid plate, the heavy duty golf got them. basically a cage o steel mounted underneath to protect sump
For anyone interested I kept track of my spend for the conversion... Donor car £750 Gearbox £0 Engine brackets £135 Engine mounts £40 Pedalbox £140 Clutch master/slave cylinders £85 Turbo £0 Charge pipe £115 Downpipe £200 Turbo Inlet Pipe £125 Exhaust manifold £0 Exhaust £550 Wiring loom £275 Gear shifter and cables £0 Gearbox tower £0 Short brake master cylinder and reservoir £87 Starter motor £0 VR6 Clutch £90 G60 Flywheel + lightning £100 De-immobilsing ECU £0 Air filter £0 Radiator / fans £0 Intercooler £60 Pipework £120 Injectors £0 Cambelt / Waterpump £85 Service items £100 Remap £450 Mk3 fuel tank / straps / brackets / lines £40 Mk3 fuel pump £65 Coil packs £120 Various £200 TOTAL - £3932 Except for the remap and exhaust there are no big expences... I really don't see how you could do it for much less. I have made £1600 back from the donor car and the original 16v engine and various parts, which is pretty decent. Winter plans are BRAKES! Cheers all
I in total did my last one for just under £800. It’s doable, it’s one of them, not what you know, who situations. what plans do you have for brakes?
Totalled my parts collection so far few weeks back, was about £1100 -1200, since spent about another 100. It's almost ready to go in now, couple bits to get, nowt major though. Intercooler hoses and fuel line really. That's with 6 speed and conversion from auto to manual, trackslag downpipe and S3 210 engine.
Under £800? I genuinely don't understand how that is possible. I guess you don't do cambelt kit and service. No new clutch, standard TIP, standard exhaust, wiring yourself, mapping?!?! Or like you say - know the right people! Not sure on brake upgrade but it will be calipers/discs/pads/lines/fluid - done properly!
Got the engine for free from an already upgraded free donor car, had the mounts on the donor car, as the golf was widetracked from my old car, had a silicone tip on it, bought pipe made a 3” downpipe (£40), got a almost new track slag off FB (£250), car was mapped to 230bhp with all the usual deletes. Clutch was brand new with receipt less than 300 miles on it, lightened flywheel (£85) wiring (£250), IC and odds and sods were just under £200. My AWD build is currently at £1500 but I’m yet to start spending money
looks like you have had a productive lock down! Brakes wise, i have Audi S2 on mine and they are really good. G60's are a popular option and won't mess up your wheel choice through fowling.
lovey mk2 to got here. i keep finding myself re reading you build thread it was one of the reason i ended up buying another one
Haven't posted any updates for a while. Couple of months ago the car went to Badger 5... Since the engine conversion the engine had been idling at 1200rpm, I assumed it was a vacuum leak that I couldn't find. Bill said he thinks it is the throttle pedal but there was no code showing. This meant I had no boost at all! So Bill flashed a map from a similar spec 1.8T. I got the car home and ordered a used throttle pedal, installed it a couple of days later. I revved the car and the boost gauge flew up - time for a drive. In short - the car is absolute monster!!! It is so much fun to drive. It pulls HARD all the way to the redline and the exhaust sounds perfect. However it spins wheels in every gear in the wet, I have to drive very timidly! Maybe my Toyo Proxes are an issue. I will be changing them soon. Even in the dry the wheels spin in 3rd gear if you are driving hard. I spoke to Bill and told me to put some proper tyres on! And now the car is actually boosting he can map the car so the power is more progressive. Anyway the car is in my garage until March-ish time. In the meantime I just got my first Transporter! Busy turning it into campervan... That's all for now, lots to be done in the next couple of months Cheers
nice work! love it when you can identify then simply resolve the issue. Transporter looks great too, nice wheels
