How to remove inner metal cambelt cover? PB engine

Discussion in '8-valve' started by blu-tak, Apr 9, 2021.

  1. blu-tak Forum Member

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    Do we have to remove the intermediate oil pump pulley, which haynes says only to do with the engine out?

    I just wanted to derust and paint the inner cover to keep it going longer.

    Any help much appreciated

    1.8 8v mk2 golf gti
    1990 PB engine.

    Joe

    [​IMG]

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  2. Tristan

    Tristan Paid Member Paid Member

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    Iirc, yes. The IM Pulley is on a key, don't drop it.
     
  3. Savagesam

    Savagesam Moderator Staff Member Moderator

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    Yep, all pulleys off to get that bad boy out sadly
     
  4. blu-tak Forum Member

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    How do you stop the IM (Intermediate) puley from spinning.
    Locking the engine somehow,
     
  5. blu-tak Forum Member

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    To my looking just IM pulley, not camshaft or crankshart pulley or tensioner, but happy to be corrected
     
  6. Tristan

    Tristan Paid Member Paid Member

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    I put a socket onto a short extension, onto one of the studs around the seal, and hold it firm to lock the pulley.
     
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  7. blu-tak Forum Member

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    Simple Q, does the IM pulley drive the oil pump and also the dizzy?
     
  8. Tristan

    Tristan Paid Member Paid Member

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    It does.
     
  9. NateS2

    NateS2 Paid Member Paid Member

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    Is there a spec for end float on the IM pulley out of interest?
     
  10. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    I'm pretty sure it will come out without takiong off the intermediate shaft sprocket. the threaded stud on the front you can tap out, its a T bolt thru waterpump casting. then it just slides out from behind the sprocket
     
  11. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    prob have to undo the allen head alternator bolt as well, and you can see main bolt fixing for the cover thru the sprocket spokes
     
  12. blu-tak Forum Member

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    Got it off - we did remove the IM pulley, but I think Rubjonny may be right, I'll look closely again to confirm.
    In box ready for citric acid solution, along with some alternator bracket bits.
    [​IMG]
     
  13. blu-tak Forum Member

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    upload_2021-4-14_11-29-4.png
    Etka snip if that helps confirm RJ?
     
  14. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    may as well do all the seals now the IM sprocket is off :)
     
  15. blu-tak Forum Member

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    Haha, I'm not going to do the headgasket etc, one has to stop at some point.

    However taking your point literally, then there is a peskly foamy rubbery seal around this metal cambelt cover, part 19 in my previous snip is described as:

    upload_2021-4-14_11-41-11.png
     
  16. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    I just mean the ones round the cam and int shaft sprockets, coudl leave cam one as thats easy done later I guess. just be a bit annoying doing all these bits then have oil leak rom behind them
     
  17. blu-tak Forum Member

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    I checked this, and I wanted to confirm that this is true, you don't have to remove any pulleys or cambelt itself should any of you wish to refurb this metal place.
    As appreciate a few of us varied from all pulleys, to intermediate or none.

    However should you not wan to take of the T bolt thru waterpump, then you could take off the IM pulley instead, or you have to bend the metal cover.

    Here is a pic that shows RJ is correct.
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Apr 20, 2021
  18. blu-tak Forum Member

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    Here is pic of cover after over a 100 hours sitting in citric acid - not quite fully de-rusted but 99% there.

    [​IMG]
     
  19. blu-tak Forum Member

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    On another note - didn't want to start a new thread, any top tips on how to remove the coil? I need to clean up the crusty connections - again advice on that would be appreciated.

    [​IMG]

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  20. Tristan

    Tristan Paid Member Paid Member

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    Is it not just held on with 2 m6 bolts, heads either side of the coil and nuts in the scuttle?
     
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