Which Mk2 for G60 Conversion?

Discussion in 'Mk2' started by wannaberacer, Jun 16, 2018.

  1. wannaberacer New Member

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    Hi there guys, really looking for some help and advice... I've searched and read what seems like every related topic and still don't feel confident i have the right answer...

    So, having recently sold my Caddy, I'm now looking to purchase a Mk2 GTI, Ive had a Mk1 GTI, Corrado G60, and most recently a Caddy and feel the Mk2 should be the next VW to relieve me of my time and money.

    In the midst of my Caddy project i purchased a G60 engine, Fully rebuilt, P Head, AD Inlet, Stage 4 Charger, etc etc and never got around to doing the engine swap. Now the Caddy has gone id like to find the G60 a new home in a Mk2.

    So, the real question is, which MK2 would make the best / simplest base for the conversion.

    What id like to confirm is:

    1. 8V or 16V, As far as i can see, mechanically the engine will bolt straight into either, but the 16V offers a better gearbox should i not want to use the 02A and convert to cable change / hydro clutch?

    2. CE2 Car presumably as the G60 Loom will plug straight in, but what years were these made and how would i tell the difference between CE1 and CE2?

    3. Digi 1 Car (If 8V) to match the G60, but again how do i tell the difference? Is this even necessary? If it was Digi 2 would it matter if i plan to remove the engine?

    Id like to make the conversion as simple as possible, therfore a MK2 where the engine would bolt straight in, i could use the standard rod change box / cable clutch, exhaust and manifold where the wiring would be minimal would be ideal if there is such a spec of car?

    I understand in any case, I will have to source / fabricate brackets and pipework for the intercooler which is fine. I just dont see a point in a buying a car that is going to make my life harder when I can source a model that will assist in a few ways!

    Thanks again in advance, your help is much appreciated. On a side note if you feel you have a suitable car for me then please get in touch, cash waiting.

    Henry
     
  2. KeithMac Forum Junkie

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    I would say a CE2 Digi2 8v GTi would possibly be the best bet due to wiring and the fuel pumps.

    The 16v is K-jet and different fuel system (to a point).

    Digi1 was only ever used on the G60 iirc so whatever car you choose you have to fit the Digi 1 ecu and loom etc.

    I already had a Mk2 16v so went Megasquirt in the end, the Digi 1 didn't got on very well with my 16v Kent 1602r cams I think. Your 8v setup will be fine.

    As for gearboxes I use the 16v box, currently got a spare and diff bolt kit to fit but some have mentioned a rod change diesel gearbox may be suitable due to the grunt off the G60?.

    I think you shouldn't have many problems fitting it into a later 8v GTI car.

    Saying all that the condition of the body, sills and chassis would trump any fitting concerns for me, find a nice solid base card and go from there!.
     
  3. pigbladder Forum Addict

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    yeah get the most rust free un bodged up car you can , the rest can be dealt with

    think id bite the bullet and fit hydro & o2a straight away
     
  4. DN5

    DN5 Paid Member Paid Member

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    I agree with this part! Hydraulic clutch in a mk2 golf is a god send and the 02J mk4 cable shifter and tower is a whole new feel for gearing ....
     
  5. wannaberacer New Member

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    Thanks for the advice guys!

    So on my lookout, how do I tell a CE1 car from a CE2 car, is it by year or is there any other tell tell signs?

    I have the G60 ECU and engine loom from the corrado donor. I’m assuming these will work fine wether the original was Digi 2 or not? I’m making the assumption all the fuel lines from the golf would work?

    I have the 02A box already, was just thinking about how to make the conversion as easy as possible, I’ll have to look how much work is involved in converting to hydro clutch and cable change.

    As you have mentioned a rust free minimally molested example will be the first order of the day but I’m in no great rush so can wait for the right one.

    Thanks again.
     
  6. DN5

    DN5 Paid Member Paid Member

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    Ce1 have hazard switch on the dash and ce2 have hazard switch on top of the wiper/indicator stalks.

    The hydro clutch would preferably require a pedal box from corrado or Passat that has the mountings or modify your original pedal box.
    Then just a case of flattening the bulk head when engine is out and drilling the holes accordingly.
    Clutch master cylinder and slave cylinders weren't expensive on the net when I bought them last year and they work an absolute treat!
     
  7. DN5

    DN5 Paid Member Paid Member

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    Cable change conversion also dead easy when you have the parts. I bought a mk4 golf gearbox and stole the shift tower and then bought mk4 cable shifter.
    Loads of guides on how to mount the mk4 shifter but mk3 item is even easier. Just a little trimming under the exhaust tunnel - 1 hour max I'd say.
     
  8. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    1. 8v and 16v use the same 020 type box, only difference is the ratios inside plus 16v input shaft is bigger. not that it makes any real difference in terms of strength, if you have enough torque to snap an 8v input shaft then the 16v internals wont cope any better put it that way.

    2. Its true a 90spec digifant has 5 of the wires you need, plus the 6th wire you find on some g60 looms isnt actually needed for it to run. but the main bay loom on the digi 8v fits the G60 engine perfectly so thats another bonus. but fusebox doesn't make a great deal of difference really, there are only 5 wires on the G60 ecu loom to hook up to the fusebox if you have a 16v/ce1 base car. a 16v base engine bay loom will need a couple wires tweaking for the G60 sensors but thats easy peasy, or get a digi base loom and work from that, or modify the g60 base loom if you have one (mk2 g60 is like mk2 digi with ecu loom seperate, corrado its usually all one piece)

    3. in the UK you only get digi 2 on the 8v, but as above it makes no difference 8v or 16v digi 1 or digi 2 you pull the ecu loom out and drop g60 loom on top leaving the main bay part in place for dash sensors, wiper loom etc.

    skip any thoughts of 020 gearbox, go direct to 02a. you dont have to go hydro route you can get the SEAT cable adpator setup quite easily now and the price ends up about the same as you would spend on a hydro pedal box with non of the faffing about. which box to go for depends on what you want out of the car, and the spec of the engine. the oem G60 box will be ok for a relatively standard engine, or the ABF 02a box is pretty good for mild tune it works well on the 20v engines for example.

    fuel system wise digi or 16v makes no real difference. on a digi base the g60 lines do fit direct, but with kjet all you need to do is chop the rubber ends off the 2 metering head lines leaving the barbed fittings then the g60 pipes will push onto them. or you can strip the lot off either way and fit mk3 tank, lines and filter carrier which tbh is the way I would go about it since the mk2 main pump housings are hard to get and now the cars are getting on a bit casings are usually split or will soon.


    a carb mk2 is still a fine base to work from, mk3 fuel setup as above, 5 wires to fusebox or adapt g60 loom etc. main difference is no roll bar if its 1.6 or smaller, driveshafts needed too unless its a 90spec 1.8, rear beam has no roll bar, no MFA wiring etc. all of this you can easily source and refurb off the car before swapping over so dont overlook any tidy poverty specs ;)
     
  9. wannaberacer New Member

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    Perfect thanks again for all the help guys, i definitely feel more confident in what im looking for now! As you have all mentioned the chassis condition will be the deciding factor, the rest will be an added bonus. Now just need to find some sensibly priced mk2s! Having not followed the pricing of Mk2s for very long it seems there is quite a spread in what people want for them, any ideas what sort of price i should be paying for a relatively unmolested, solid mk2 gti or is that a bit of an open ended question?
     
  10. DN5

    DN5 Paid Member Paid Member

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    I paid 900 and mine was far from standard and when i got digging - was far from rot free...
    I could have found better for my money for sure!
     
  11. watercooled Forum Member

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    Paid 300NZD for my first Golf a 89 4dr GLI in great condition but needing work which was a few days effort,passed the car on to my son,he sold it to 2 mates and still going,we are lucky in my country cause we have no rust issues,been working on these cars for 20yrs and never found any serious rust ,one car a UK import I worked on was really crusty underneath,when the owner painted it he found some really horrible rot.
    Good luck finding a good roller ,cheers.
     

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