I cant remember if you have two switches on your brake pedal or one combined unit. But basically the ecu is looking for a signal from both brake light circuit and the other circuit to ensure the brake pedal switches are ok. Instructions on how to use vcds to set the two switches are here. https://workshop-manuals.com/volksw..._light_switch_f__and__brake_pedal_switch_f47/ Useful thread here. http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=390735
I have the combined mk4 switch as per Rubjonnys advice and all is well aside from this issue with the cruise not working. I'll give that a go then and see what I'm left with cheers.
ok yeah with the mk4 switch check those values on vcds. But actually I’ve seen this issue before. Dubnutter put a post here about switching to an Audi ecu as you have done. His instructions should sort you. https://www.clubgti.com/forums/inde...ro-fit-cruise-control-to-mk3-golf-tdi.241644/ Have you tried setting your idle speed with your new vcds?
I've not yet had chance to go out and mess properly so I'll set the idle tomorrow and see if it stays put.... I have seen that thread before and I comment on the second page! I'm not sure if that works for me does it? I have the Audi ecu but the 4 pin brake switch instead of the 2 seperate switches. I'll get out tomorrow and see how vcds reads them
How did you wire it in? Did you use a 12v feed for the feed to both switches? It may also be the clutch switch upsetting it.
I'll have to check. Rubjonny walked me through the wiring but not sure that was for cruise setup too. I think I'll definitely need a feed for clutch switch as I didn't touch that one at all. Holidays for a week then I'll get back to it
I've put the details for the clutch and brake in my oem 20v guide, but basically it's 2 wires spliced to old brake switch wires, ignition live to the blue/black wires, and 3 wires to ecu
Ok great I'll look at this and get it hooked up properly. Where can I find this guide, do you have a link at all? Cheers
Brake pedal not pressed... And when pressed... Not how it should be so I'll get some ignition lives going to them . I know what wire I need to snip and feed for the 4 pin brake switch but which one on the clutch do I need to snip and feed to? Thanks
Actually all the info is above in Rubjonnys guide! Blue/black for both switches And touch nothing else?
yep the blue/black wire on both switches is a common ignition live feed so they can go to the same place. G2/4 is a handy spot on the engine loom, or the D plug
Ok great . I assumed that they would be powered from the original wiring but as mentioned I'm using the Audi a4 ecu so that changes things apparently. Just on with the thermostat now and then I'll give this a bash. Cheers
So I went to town on the thermostat today, had to pull the power steering pump off and its bracket to get to it though... Gives perfect access... New vs Old... Temp gauge sits here on a run out... But on VCDS the temp is 98°C and still no fans Any other tests I can do for the thermoswitch or anything before I rewire the fans onto a dash switch? Have I missed anything out?
I've now bridged the pins for the thermoswitch plug located on the bottom of the radiator and the fans work on high and low speed - spins up lovely! Could this mean that the switch itself is caput? Really hoping not as I've just filled with new coolant Is there anything else I need to check to confirm what is wrong? Thanks
Just spent the last hour reading up and I think a new thermo switch is the way forward. One ordered from VW for the morning so it best bloody sort it lol
dont rush out mate, temps look pretty much spot on for 98 on dash and you wont see fan kick in till gauge gets near 3/4
What temp should it be running fans at with that switch? Part number is : 1H0 959 481 B I panicked at seeing 98 and turned it off!
thats 95-84 (switch on, switch off) and 102-91 degree switch. bear in miond though its radiator temp, not engine temp it works at. The temps in the far end of the rad where the sensor sits will be a bit cooler than you see direct in the side of the head as the coolant has already passed thru the radiator