Hello all, I have split my spare 020 gearbox down to the output shaft. I need a puller to take the remaining gears off but stuggling to find one?. I have found a Laser puller but this would be 1 gear at a time?. Also there some odd substance on the shift forks and slider (sulphur?) and theres a tab on the shifter assy that looks bent, should this be straight?.
Mostly have to come off one at a time, do yourself a favour and use an engraving tool to scribe the top of each gear. So you don't put one in upside down............. Jon
Getting them back on is easier generally. Aerosol freezer is great(-50C in a tin) and a plumbers torch and a series of hollow drifts. 020's are relatively easy, I do not like playing with 02A or J's Jon
I've got a Rothenberg torch on the way (use one at work and it's a god send). Doesn't look too bad to do (famous last words!.). Did you do the diff/ output shaft preaload with a dial gauge?. I think mine may need setting up.
Diff needs preloading for sure. Blind puller needed for thee inner race, can be a little tricky. Make yourself a little force distance tool. (spring balance and steel rule). When you've got it right it will feel a little too tight initially The aerosol freezer is a really useful workshop tool, everybody should have a tin Jon
I've got some blind bearing pullers at work, may need a little modification to go in though. Can borrow my workmates inch pound gauge to check the turning torque. I suppose at this point it would be much easier to rebuild the centre cases with Three Bond sealant at final fit rather than torquing down with a paper gasket multiple times?. Nearly all motorcycle crankcase halfs are gasketless now.
I always use the paper gaskets dry and never had oil leak problems. Dry building is just that, everything scrupulously clean before you start and keep a minimum quantity of oil on the bearings. Agree, newer bike and cars are heading that way (So says the man stuck in a time warp) Jon
I use 2 dedicated levers under 1st to remove 1st-3rd off in one go. Only the 16v/mk3 4th can be an issue going on upsidedown as they are have a corrcet orientation, where as the 16v has no signs, and they don't like to be put on the wrong way once worn in. Same here, always use the paper gaskets where required. If you measure correctly you only need to clamp in once before final building.
I found this on ebay for £25, needed to use a spacer but worked a treat!. Managed to pull the diff bearings off with it as well.
