Hi All, I have a 1988 8v gti, that i have owned for 17 years and have just acquired a 1996 8v mk3 mot failure, mainly for pas conversion. I also have a 4 stud 256mm front hub and caliper set. My question is how to make best use of the mk3. I want to swap subframe , agg block with all ancillary parts and pas system. Any useful suggestions on the rest, like 280mm brakes, gearbox ( mk2 crunches in 2nd), and anything else that would benefit the mk2. Time and ability are plentiful. Trying to keep costs reasonable, and make the mk2 a bit more useable. Thanks for your tips..
no need to swap the subframe, you can use the mk2 stuff just fit the mk2 brackets. if you did fit the mk3 subframe you would use the mk3 rear bracket but keep the mk2 front and gearbox, plus all the mk2 gear linkage etc but use the mk3 weighted shift rod. mk3 gearbox is straight swap, use a mk2 16v clutch kit with the mk2 flywheel (check gearbox code on mk3 to make sure its original) if staying 4 stud then cant use the mk3 roll bar or wishbones etc, use mk2 wishbones & shafts with mk2 pas track rods fitted to the mk3 rack. if mk3 is pre-96 it has 280mm calipers and carriers which will swap straight to 256mm bearing carriers. rear calipers are direct swap and uprated design, I would clean up and rebuild with fresh seals along with front calipers. The carriers will go as well if yours are corroded, the mk3 ones will usually take the stainless slider inserts which means you never have to worry about corroded carriers causing pad stick again keep your handbrake cables or buy new sds mk2 ones if needed. pas wise the 2 pipes on the rack fit, the mk3 bottle is further forward so you would have to make your own bracket for it, or bin and use a mk2 or corrado bottle, cvut the mk3 rack -> bottle pipe down to suit and use mk2 bottle -> pump or off the shelf rubber hose (thats all mk2 pipe is) the mk3 has a metal pipe between bottle and pump with rubber ends, you could try and fit that if you want. keep all the mk3 pas and alternator setup. I would keep all the mk3 coolant pipes, fit a new mk3 front flange and new mk2/3 non-ac side flange plus use the mk3 matrix pipes. put a new matrix in the mk2 if its never had one, then you wont need bypass valves. If you want to keep the mk2 pb injection and want to use the mk3 rocker cover then remove all the studs and use bolts instead, it wont fit past the mk2 fuel rail/fpr otherwise. for the breathers keep the mk3 hoses, trim down and move the mk2 isv pipe to the throttle body hose, then use a plastic fitting in the mk2 isv hole in rubber boot to take the mk3 breather. I used one off a mk3 cut down a bit. if you use the mk3 injection stuff then use the mk3 downpipe, get a decat pipe then either use a reducer for the mk2 exhaust or change it for a mk2 16v/g60 system. wiring loom will need modifying, this thread will do you abf loom is basically same as 8v when it comes down to fusebox splicing: https://clubgti.com/forums/index.php?threads/ce1-abf-splicing-of-looms-help.249714/ mk3 has the 99 variable intermittent wiper relay so nick that, may as well have all the relays for spares most will swap over to the ce1 fusebox except the ecu relay (unless you go mk3 management and decide to wire up your conversion loom to use it)
oh and if you do plan to just use the bottom end on your pb management, then if its an agg/ady code engine (pretty sure it will be by 96, but might be late regged 2e) you need a 2E code dizzy. or you may be able to strip the trigger window from the old dizzy and fit it to the mk3 dizzy
Thanks Rubjonny for the info, took me ages to find how to update my info so I could reply, kept getting account confirmation error. Yep 7 posts in 14 years is poor, think im usually a reader not a contributor ☺. This is probably now in the wrong area, but with respect to the clutch, is there a benefit or necessity for the mk2 16v clutch and flywheel, if using the mk3 gearbox and bottom end or can i just use a mk3 item. I understand the input shaft is bigger than a mk2 8v. Is a mk3 gti 8v box better than the mk2? On the dizzy do i take it the PB one dosent fit, i have a spare that i can take the trigger wheel off if necessary. On the injection front is the mk3 injection better? I assume it has sequential injection and may be more efficient with the lambda sensor and less restrictive air flow meter. The mk3 i have has an AGG engine with obd port next to the ashtray. I used to have a mk3 16v and didnt even realise it had the variable intermittent wipe, so thanks for enlightening me. Unfortunately it was written off after only 9 months when the mrs pulled out in front of a rav 4. Will definately put that relay in the mk2. Another thing that would be good to know is can the ignition switch, or even complete steering column be fitted from mk3 to mk2. Would like the acc position on the switch for radio/windows, and height adjustment would be a nice touch. Thanks.
No problems, next time feel free to email the staff or contact us on facebook if you have issues and we'll be happy to help All it is the mk3 flywheel is a bit heavier than the mk2 one, and the later mk3 kits can be a bit more tricky to find. While the engine is out its a good idea to buy a new clutch kit, so may as well buy a mk2 16v one so you can use the lighter mk2 flywheel (maybe send it to hotgolf/martin emment/gas n gears for extra lightening ) If the mk3 clutch has been replaced recently then you can keep it if you like though. gearbox wise the mk3 box is better than yours if it doesn't crunch though the ratios are a little taller than the mk2 one, so you might want to get another mk2 gti box instead, or send that off to hotgolf/etc for a full refurb the mk2 pb dizzy is smaller and has a different gear, you can get an adaptor ring from the likes of TSR, then swap the 2.0 gear over. depends what's easier/cheaper for you, as I say first thing I'd do is see if the trigger wheel will swap over, usually they will if both are bosch make. if going for a 2e dizzy, make sure its bosch! injection wise its more modern and designed for the engine, but its going to take more work to install. the pb management can run a standard 2.0 bottom end swap reasonably well, but if you start tuning it the ecu is not very flexible so you'll want to bin it in favour of an aftermarket unit. but then you're starting to spend lots of time & money, when you could just drop a 2.0 16v in there and have loads more power/torque out of the box before you even start spending. my personal opinion on 8v swaps is keep it cheap and simple, save the big cash for a nicer lump. It is just my opinion though, feel free to do whatever you like, I know there's a lot of love still out there for the 8v the mk3 column is pretty different, with enough work you could probably make it fit. I've had a SEAT tilt column in my mk2 and honestly it was a waste of time for me as I set it to same height it was before and left it a cheap way to lower the column is pack out the bracket with a spacer plate, if you need to raise it up there isn't much clearance to the dash without cutting it unfortunately though it does go slightly higher. other issue is since your car is CE1 electrics the stalks & ignition switch wiring is all different so you would have to splice it all to convert. however, if accessory wire is what you want the CE1 switch has this, you just need to add a terminal to the plug pin S/SU. Its a standard 2.8mm latched spade terminal you need, if you don't care about parking lights (use indicator stalk ignition off and sidelights on that side come on) then you could re-use that. run the feed straight to radio accessory live and it'll come on as soon as key is inserted same as mk3 check the pin is actually there on the switch, if original its usually there but can be missing sometimes. It was there on my 89 driver anyway!
Thanks for the info on the flywheel, hadn't considered the weight. Wont bother with the column, sounds like too much hassle. It has a strange driving position due to sirrocco seat bases, but i drove it like that for years. Will definately investigate the pins on the ignition switch. Back when i first built it i put a switch in the choke blank plate for the radio and electric (aftermarket) windows, so trying to find a more elegant way this time around. The bottom end swap is really just because i have one, with a genuine 84k on the clock. I bought the mk3 mostly for the pas bits. The roads round here are so twisty/potholed/covered in mud that a big hp car is wasted. Im still gathering info and parts at the moment, as im concentrating on getting the body sound. Quite shocked at how bad the inner rear arches are. Will be busy with the grinder and the welder over the winter. Thanks for the info so far, im sure i will have some more queries soon.
an alternative for the CE1 fusebox round the back is a group of spades 'G', 1,2,3 and 5 are all ignition lives https://clubgti.com/forums/index.php?threads/fusebox-faq.219775/
