so last few bits now. 1998 OBD2 coilpack vr6 from a sharan going into my 1984 mk2 scirocco CE1. I am wiring the engine as a standalone more or less and retaining CE1 for the rest of the car. I just want to check my final thoughts on pin outs for power into ecu etc. 68/23 black yellow 1.5mm- ignition live - fused at 10A? - best place to connect this? existing coil positive? 68/54 red/white 2.5mm - Permenant live from battery - no fuse. known as the Z1. 42/6 red/blue 2.5mm 42/40 black 2.5mm - ignition live - no fuse - best place to connect this? existing coil positive? red/white 1mm to oxygen sensor - ignition live - fused 20A - best place to connect this? existing coil positive? red/blue 2.5mm to oxygen sensor- Permenant live from battery - no fuse. So my real question other than does this look right with what is ignition and permenant live and is do i need to fuse everything? if so, what size fuse? and where is the best place to connect ignition live? thanks in advance. steve
have a look here, most of it still applies: https://clubgti.com/forums/index.php?threads/ce1-abf-splicing-of-looms-help.249714/ T68/23 - D/2 would work, fed by 10a fuse 17, D/2 is only pin fed by this fuse Or D/7, G spade 1 or 5 those are all fed by 10a fuse 18, but are shared by things like horn relay, windows, handbrake light etc T68/54 - to P spade, equivalent of early VR6 which went direct to Y spade T43/6 - N spade (assuming you wired T68/6 to D/13 so as to retain OEM CE1 fuel relay in slot 2) T43/40 - D/23 red/white to lambda -> spade on E/14, as above if using oem fuel relay last one assuming you meant red/blue to MAF etc -> N
jonny, you are an amazing wiring genius! can you clarify this bit as i have nothing with this are. I want to retain the original rocco relay. Do i just join 68/6 into D/13? assuming you wired T68/6 to D/13 so as to retain OEM CE1 fuel relay in slot 2 I am sure i will have more questions... thanks
Yeah so to use OEM 67/80/167 fuel relay you need to run T68/6 yel/blue -> D/13 (ecu trigger for relay) these pins are multimate AMP part number 163084, can be had from polevolt, farnel, ebay etc. classic-vw.co.uk does them too I think? If its a factory injection then thats it! if not then you add 2 wires to E/14, one runs off to the fuel pump(s). the other put a male spade on it, then crimp a female spade on the lambda probe red/white to plug into it. The larger CE1 round pins are mate-n-lok 925661, as above. Spade N takes a standard 9.5mm spade, widely available as above. If you have any the CE1 N/P 9.5mm spade housings take plain spades (latched still fit though, just flatten the latch), CE2 Y/Z1/Z2 spade housings need latched type terminals and fit N if you trim the locating and lock tabs off the sides
ok. I think i get it now. I am please i asked as i think i was about to royally cock this up!! its factory injection, so nice and easy. thank you so much for your help. Much appreciated
are there any other major power wires i need to worry about. I think everything else is sensors and grounds which i think i have sorted. thanks again
think you've covered the fusebox power feeds yeah, have a look at the ce1 abf link above that goes thru all the ce1 fusebox connections. you can ignore the bit about ecu relay, and the rev counter needs a specific adaptor or you can try this: https://clubgti.com/forums/index.php?threads/98913
so the car runs! whoopa! however.... I had to bridge the fuel pump relay as it wasn't firing the relay. I have ordered a new relay as they are pretty rubbish. I just wanted to quiz you to see if i have missed something. I fitted a new pin to 68/6 and fitted it into D/13. D/13 was previously empty. As far as fuel pump stuff goes that was it. Relay is in slot 2 and i have a Topran 103420 which worked fine with the old 8v. any ideas? I am confused about if adding a new pin to D/13 was correct and maybe i got the wrong location. Should this relay work? thatnsk. steve
wirign is correct, but as I said earlier once you do that you use a number 67, 80 or 167 fuel relay in slot 2, which are ecu trigger types the original 8v kjet relay is rev counter trigger type, it would actually work ok once you get the correct tach adaptor wired in but its best to use the right ecu trigger type to match the vr6 ecu
amazing. i had missed that bit, assumed i had the correct relay. i did do the tach wiring but in my excitement of the engine starting i never checked if the rev counter worked or not! what car are the 67, 80, 167 relays from? ideally i need to get it from gsf or eurocarparts. Thank again so much for all your wiring help. you really have made a huge difference.