Wiring up Idle Control Valve

Hey guys!
Hope you can help out here.

Situation:
Car won't start. It cranks, but it won't fire up.
My Idle Control Valve (ICV) is connected with a white and a black/white wire to connection M on the Fuse Box.

My guess:
M is for headlights, at least that's what I find all over the internet. Guessing this is correct, since everytime I would turn on my high beam, the ICV clicks.

So, if someone could tell me where the connector would have to go to instead of M on the Fuse Box, this would be greatly appreciated.


The car:
VW mk2 Golf
Engine:
1986
1.8 16v KR
Electronics:
CE1

I have seen pretty much ever schematics out there about this already, but it is never about CE1, or KR, or the combination of these two. Always telling me to connect the ICV to the computer that can only be found on the PL.

 

Some of the schematics I already found.
Maybe they can help you better help me, than they helped me.

 

The VDO 244 unit, yes, I found some info on that one as well.
Thing is though, the car ran fine until recently. I installed the horn, and had to remove a bushing on the steering collumn. In the process, I broke a ground wire for warm-up regulator. After re-attaching that one, the car ran again. I put it all back together, since the dash was still off from looking for the problem, and after it had been put together, it again didn't run.

The ISV clicks when turning on the high beams, so I guess we now know why.
We don't know why it won't run all of a sudden anymore though...

I will see if I haven't already checked your diagrams, I am pretty sure I saw your comment on a similar topic already where you said you already posted those diagrams and got no response, haha.

 

1. Sparkplugs and wires are new. I just received a new rotor, and the cap was only a few weeks old, and the car never drove, just ran for a few minutes a week. Checked all the wiring so far with a multimeter, and seems fine as well.

2. I have a black/white and a full white wire on the ISV, missing the VDO 244 control unit though. However, we drove the car and had it running on several occasions without this as well. I already cleaned the ISV two or three weeks ago. It ran before and after doing this. Is there a way to just short the ISV, and have it running on a switch or something temporarily, just to check?

3. All vacuum lines are new, and it ran before and after installing them. However, I am not really certain everything is hooked up perfectly, so if there is anyone that could show me a proper schematics of what goes where on a euro KR from 86, that'd be cool. However, like I said, it ran fine with how it was / is.

4. This I am doing at the moment, just checking everything in general, but the info in your post is awesome! Gives me a clue of what in particular to look out for. So massive thanks for that!

5. Without the VDO 244 unit, this valve does nothing either I believe? So, job now is to install this unit and check it all again. Should still have one somewhere, so will try and make some time to dig it out this weekend.

6. Will check this. Easier now with all the wiring taken out, so will check if the labels I put on are correct, and if not, correct them.

7. Checked the coldstart injector / 5th injector, and it is spraying just fine. Still have a bottle of gas from testing it standing on the workbench.

8. Throttle housing has been apart completely, cleaned and polished. I think it is cleaner and smoother than when it came from the factory. No problems there.

9. Seals, yeah. Gonna check those when the car runs again, but I think they are no longer 100%. But should still be good. Eitherway, they are on the list to be replaced from now on.

10. Metering head, I can test without the wiring in? Or should it be wired up and key in ignition? Don't think there's an issue there, but never hurts to check.

11. New injectors also on the list of parts to be replaced.

12. No hot start issues, haha, since the car won't even start to get hot.

13. Gonna check the flap, but guess there's nothing wrong there. Eitherway, good to know and test.

14. Timing belt is new, and timing is correct. It ran before and after changing this.

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With setting the Idle Screw, you mean the screw on the throttle body?

Great tips on that CO screw!

Lastly: yes, the fuelpump works fine.

Thanks for this post / link man!

 

Gonna walk through all the things first thing this new week. Found the VDO244 with all the wiring and plugs, knew I still had it somewhere, just had to find it and isolate the wiringloom from all the rest and tape it back up.

The ignition module has been replaced by three others already, haha. No difference, but good to check just to make sure. Same goes for the ECO. Also been swapped, without any success.

 

Fizzed it a little to apply for my situation.

 

I wasn't sure anymore, but when I saw the loom I took this part out of, I remembered:

The loom that served as a donor for this part, was the original loom that came with the car / engine. Reason why I didn't put it, was because I was told the stuff that's in the VDO244 unit, is also inside the Digifiz, so the seperate unit wasn't needed anymore. Knowing now what the VDO244 unit does, I find it highly unlikely these functions are built in to the cluster though. Had I known this before, I could've saved myself a lot of trouble.

 

It's alive!

It almost went down in a huge firey ball of automotive disaster, but it is alive.
Don't think I heard the idle valve buzz the way it does now, but also don't think I've ever seen the warm up regulator just spray fuel all over the place like it is doing now. I am SOOO fucking glad I cleaned the entire engine and dried it the way I did when it was pretty much in parts, so that I now clearly see it is no longer clean, nor dry, and went looking for the culprit.

What I've done, so I can not really pinpoint what the actual problem was, but pretty much all you said and then some.
I put the VDO244 console in, including all the wiring, completely OEM. Then I had the yellow, the white, the red AND the blue plug out the fuse box and checked every single of their wires, one by one, and soldered a shit-ton of them.

I replaced pretty much all the sensors, as far as they were delivered anyways. The ones that still need to arrive will be replaced as well. Then did an oil-change (I know, without a running engine, the oil is cold, but I just put cheap stuff, and still need to do a filter AND oil-change later with proper stuff). Changed the spark-wires, and put another coil. Replaced the distributor cap and the rotor, replaced the ignition module, cleaned the idle control valve, and and and.... the list goes on and on, and really lost track of what I all did to it, but didn't want to end a thread by saying "it runs, thanks, close thread please, bye!".

It would not have worked without your massive Microsoft Paint skillzzz, Jonny, so thanks for that. And I guess the other stuff you said helped a little too.

 

The bolt on the fuel-line was lose.... guess it is not supposed to be lose.... weird. 0.o

 

Hi Rubjonny You appear to the guru of all things engine wise on here. I've got a pesky hot start issue on a 8v gti 2e engine which is fitted into a vwT25. We've followed your set up guide wow what a difference in performance this has made. Unfortunately the hot start issue is still present so fitted new plugs, distributor cap, quality blue temp sensor, new fuel pressure regulator and changed the idle control valve. The wiring is not standard on the conversion into the T25 and the ICV is not linked to the ECU/ICU controller amongst other oddities. The fault is however recent so I'm hoping it's a mechanical not electrical issue. People have mentioned a new fuel pump has solved the problem and wondered if I should go there next. To help cold start is on first turn of key. I'm in Devon and have been to 5 garages so far so am pulling my hair out trying to pinpoint the issue

 

Thanks for further advice, I'll take a look a report back with further details but I can confirm it's heath Robinson setup with no diagnostic on the ecu at all! When its turning over hot it seem to be overfueling and not igniting the fuel big puffs of white smoke out the back you continue to crank over for a long time and eventually fires up after that engine runs lovely. After engine settles for 20-40 minutes starts first time. The current issue sundendly appeared but may have been simmering in background as the only way to start warm was foot to floor but use to start all the time