The bolt nearest to the head is impossible to get any kind of normal socket or extension on to to torque up. The correct one for the job is this special crow-foot with an extended lower half to clear the fins on top of the manifold. So. I took an old Audi wheel bolt spanner and cut the shaft off. The 12 mm dia. shaft is a perfect fit in a filed out M12 x 18 a/f nut. Braze the two together and you have an extended spanner which can be used with an 18 mm crow-foot!
What is a shallow socket? (Images please) Did BRITOOL make them in Sheff. before Facom bought them? If not, I can't use them!lol
Flipping heck Mike! I explained, somewhere on here, when I was explaining why I brazed, and did not weld a steering shaft, why it is better to braze, rather than weld, in certain circumstances! Basically: The shear 'path' through a weld, as small as this, is quite small. Perhaps only 2, or 3, mm. The shear path through a braze is the whole depth of the nut. 12mm of brass is stronger than 3 mm of steel! Plus: I cannot see so well any more to weld accurately!
That isn't that special a tool in the picture as its just a standard bihex crowsfoot spanner, or am I missing something ?
No it is not a standard bi-hex crow-foot. It is extended with a smaller diameter below the standard shape. Look at the crow-foot I use it is much thinner! The overall thickness is just the thickness of where the 3/8 drive fits on my spanner! Dimension 'a' is twice that of the depth where the drive fits.
Here, a shallow socket, opposed to a deep socket The socket fits nicely under the rocker cover, a wobble extension takes it out at the angle needed to undo it.
Okay well I've got a load of crowsfeet just like that one same style with bihex made by snap on, stahlwhillie, britool etc as I said there nothing special just the way they used to be made all the cheap new ones are flat open end or six point crowsfeet as cheaper to make