Just said ide throw up this as it is a common problem and can be a daunting fix, but really its actually pretty simple. I had a spare wrecked crank and pulley here so before binning them i decided they would be ideal to work on and show how its done. There is one or two ''how tos'' on the net but is a hard job to photograph with the crank in place. Its important to note that all the work below CAN EASILY be done with the crank still in car, its just a little more time consuming. (Note this is not a g60 crank, and i have ground key out of pulley to simulate what it looks like, and it is important to study your own as key can look fine but be torn maybe 4mm off its base, a quick look at the chamfer on the inside of pulley will tell all as it stops at the sides of the key, indicating its position) And also doing it this way using my paint method, it will go back on in exactly the correct position as there is no guess work. below are the bits you will have to work on once you have bolt loosened and pulley in your hand you will see the key spun off its base as seen below the crank nose should be in good shape and can be cleaned up with a small square or tri-square file first thing you need to do is drill 2 3mm holes through pulley as shown, and at this approx placement next, you need to cut a bit of tape the width of the keyway on the crankshaft, stick it on as shown below, although the key is gone, if you look close you will see the root of the key as the pulley chamfer stops either side of it. Apply tape at key base and bring it out and through the front of the pulley. paint her up, remove tape when dry, you will then have two guide lines that can be seen from front as to where key is
also paint key on crank, bring paint around and in to the bolt hole offer up pulley, being very careful and with a torch, line up the pulley with crank nose, using the paint guides to get them bang on insert bit without moving anything and give it a spin to make the marks where to drill finish drill with pulley off, go 10-12mm deep, this is a big step for some, as drilling the crank seems serious, its not, go for it The pins of choice, can be got in any engineering shop, just say you want a tough pin and tell them what your at pins in place and heads ground, job done, get a new bolt in there, the dx bolt is better, loctite the be jasus outa it and torque her up, you may have to drop sump to wedge the crank as the bolt has to be very tight so there ya go, the cure to all those intermittent power, rough running, stalling and non starting problems thats goes along with the g60, as the crank pulley key was never designed to take the strain driving the G-lader Brian.
Nice write up mate The new crank bolts from vw are ok now btw (12 point ones iirc) , no need for the dx bolt and washer any more. Neil.
thanks Neil, hope it helps out someone someday, dident know that about the new bolts (of course i forgot to mention you could buy a new pulley and save all the paint lark, just drill it and pin it but sure where would be the fun in that )
I dowelled mine the other day, I used three 4x28mm through hardened dowel pins DIN 6325. This is a great guide Brian, thanks.
