Potentially a huge long shot, but does anyone have any pictures of their successfully working weber carb set up. Ideally for a 1.6. There are so many sources for information out there that all seem to contrast each other. If I could see someone else set up, I'm sure I could work it out. Thank you
have a look in my signature link, weber.pdf installation guide for weber to mk2 as well as the adaptor between carb and inlet you also need the adaptor ring on top to allow the original airbox to fit and theres also a funny Z shaped bracket bolted to the top with a fat shouldered bolt which secures it through the old CO adjuster bung in the top
Much appreciated for your reply! I have a quick question regarding the vacuum solenoid, do I need it? My current set up is, servo to one way valve to dizzy, then from the one-way valve it goes to the vac solenoid, do I need this? or should it just be straight from the servo to dizzy?
green ball and any solenoid stuff can all go into the bin. all you have is vac line from brake servo hose straight to dizzy and another from rear of carb to the airbox. 2nd nipple on servo hose cap off
Ideal thank you for your help, I assume the fact its an auto makes no difference to the vac lines, thank you again!
actually now you mention it I think you need to leave the auto solenoid valve on the distributor vacuum line in place if you have one, just get rid of the rest of the bits associated with the 2e2
To muddy the waters slightly I found it better to run the dizzy off the ported vaccum on the rear of the carb then connect manifold vaccum to the airbox. Which makes sense, you want the advance to come in as the rpms rise (which you would get with ported) And if you connect the ported vaccum to the airbox you won't have any vaccum to the hot air flap at idle. My vac setup is - Dizzy to rear port on carb and servo hose nearest to the manifold to the airbox. Everything else gone/ got rid of.
Yeah so vacuum is proportional to the air going through the venturi = more vacuum/ more advance when you get on it Unless I've totally misunderstood the inner workings of the dizzy on a VW
other way round, more vacuum is generated at idle throttle closed than when engine is at full throttle https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Manifold_vacuum
In manifold vacuum yes. I mean with ported. If it's isolated from manifold vacuum sucking "against" the throttle plates then it's going to be ambient/ low at idle, then as the throttle plates open you get all this air being drawn through the venturi creating an increase in negative pressure/ vacuum at the port and giving the dizzy a good old "suck" to advance the timing. See the section about the Manifold vacuum vs. venturi vacuum in that wiki article. To me it doesn't make sense to connect your hot air flap to the vaccum above the throttle plates because at idle it won't do anything and you want it to work at idle. Similarly you don't want loads of vacuum at idle for the dizzy else you're adding to your initial timing as soon as the engine starts, surely you want initial timing to be static. I could be totally wrong but to me that is what makes more sense. Also says in the weber install instructions to connect the dizzy to the port on the back of the carb IIRC
thats what im saying, i thought the port on the back of the weber was before the plate, and by that I meant inlet side rather than atmosphere side. the weber installation manual tells you to put the airbox vacuum line to the nipple on the back. the distributor isnt mentioned at all that I can see, so you would leave that on the brake servo hose as per factory 2e2 cars. the manual is in my signature link 'weber.pdf'