1.8t agu m3.8 -> me7.5 auq ecu/loom issues

Discussion in '1.8 & 1.8T' started by Alexr46, Oct 18, 2015.

  1. cupracraig

    cupracraig Paid Member Paid Member

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    Alex can you list the wiring changes that you made, ths will help other users in the future.
    Thanks
    Craig
     
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  2. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    did you remember to plug in the big 2 pin plug near the relay box, you should hear the ECU/coil power 428 relay click on with ignition and you'll see 12v at the coilpacks purple/black once its powered up properly. does the throttle body make any noises?
     
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  3. Noracle New Member

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    Hi, you mean the Big Plug with 2 Pins but ony one wire? if you mean this, this is plugged into the second Harness. I sprayed brake cleaner into intake manifold for test and car started immediately and runs until it is consumed
    The Pedal is connected and the throttle valve is reacting to input of the pedal
     
  4. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    ok, fuel pump relay is the 409 at the fusebox. double check the purple./white fuel relay trigger wire from the engine is in the correct mating pin on the car side which will also be a purple/white wire. if you earth this pin the fuel relay should trigger. to bypass leave that wire in and see if the engien runs properly, if it does you may find your ecu is to blame, I have seen this issue before. sometimes is a bad flash and can be corrected
     
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  5. Noracle New Member

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    okay big thanks, i tried to lay the fuel pump trigger wire (brown plug pin 2 after the swap over from the orange) on car side to onto earth , a blank metal surface of car but the pump also does not start to pump.
    I Mesaured from the coming cable from engine harness on my fuel pump trigger wire 12v+ [:|], first test trigger wire to + of battery - nothing after that tried to gnd of battery +12[8-}]
    I took the Cable on aum loom from orange pin 3.
     
  6. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    you will see 12v if you measure the ecu purple/white wire, as you're completing a 12v circuit to ground through the multimeter

    check fuel relay next, loop a wire between the 2 large terminals and pump should run
     
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  7. Noracle New Member

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    So its normal that i can measure 12v Between the purple white wire and ground?
    You Mean to Pull out the relay and loop a wire between the two big pins ? or should i let the relais in and do it from the other side of the plug of the relay?
    [​IMG]
     
  8. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    yes, imagine if you have a simple circuit with battery and 12v bulb. put your multimeter inline with battery + and bulb, you'll see 12v. do the same between bulb and negative, you'll still see 12v even though you're on the 'negative' pin on the bulb :)

    yes pull the relay and run a wire between the 2 big pins, make it a nice chunky wire. fuel pump should run, engien should start. if it does, then theres an issue with the trigger wire somewhere, you earthed the purple/white on the car side already and got nothing so thats where I would start
     
  9. Noracle New Member

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    Okay thx, gonna report after next time in the garage:thumbup:
     
  10. golfprince New Member

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    Exactly what parts do I need to convert my me3.8.3 to me7.5. I was thinking of using an aum ecu. Can someone list every part please
     
  11. Noracle New Member

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    - ECU - with IMMO off in my case
    - both Parts of the Engine Harness, in best Case with the Box where the Relays and Fuses in
    - Throttle Cable from internal Car Loom for the Pedal
    - Knock Sensors
    - throttle valve
    - Throttle Pedal and the Bracket to mount the pedal
    - Lambda Sensors
    - Coilpacks
    - Maybe Injectors and Intake Valve because far as i know the injectors from AUM not fitting into AGU Intake manifold
    - Air mass sensor
    You gonna also need Bigport Mapping because of the Head of the AGU has bigger Valves and maybe Mapping for the AGU Injectors if this is possible
    i am not so far that the car runs because of the fuel pump, will only be able to work on it further in the next few weeks then i can tell you more.
    But if you change the Parts and do the Wiring right car should run.
    If i forget anything Correct me please [:D]
     
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  12. Noracle New Member

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    Today i found some Time to do a next try, reconstructed everything like before, like you Told A Wire there but Fuel pump not started to Prime.
    After That i wanted to check if the Cars Stars when i jump the Fuel Pump, so i took a Wire and Connected the Positive Connector from Fuel Pump to Battery, then i tried to Crank the Engine and Connected the Fuel Pump Wire but the Car was also not starting.
    I took out the rail with injectors and tried it another time too look if they spray, but seems that no one of the injectors sprays.
    Then i connected the AUM Injectors because of Shorting Codes on Injectors, plugged the Connectors and Fuel Lines to it but they also not spray,
    Tried to delete Codes and tried a Second time but also no Spray.
    Its Strange that with the AUM and AGU Injectors i get Codes that says they are Shorted to Ground [:s].
    i Think it has to be something with the Wiring and the Fact that the Fuel Pump not Starts to Prime Without Bridging it direct to Batery has maybe something to do with the Shorting to Ground Issue with the Injectors.
    Actual List of Codes in ECU:
    18058 Powertraind Data Bus: Missing Mesage From Instrument Cluster - P1650 - 35-00
    17931 Crash Signal from Airbag Controller: Inplausible Signal P1523 35-00
    16622 Manifold Pressure / Boost Sensor G31 Signal too High P0238
    17633 Fuel Injector For Cylinder 1 N30 Short to Ground P1225 35-00
    17635 Fuel Injector for Cylinder 3 N32 Short to Ground P1227 35-00
    17636 Fuel Injector for Cylinder 4 n33 Short to ground P1228 35-00
    17634 Fuel Injector for Cylinder 2 n31 short to ground P1226 35-00
    17526 Oxygen Lambda Sensor Heating B1 S2 Open Circuit P1118 35-00
    17843 Secondary Air Pump Relay J299 Short to Ground P1435 35-00
    17939 Camsahft Timing Adjustment Open Circuit P1531 35-00
    17840 Secondary Air Injection Solenoid Valve N112 Open Circuit P1432 35-00

    Hope Somebody can Help me to find where the Wiring makes Problems.
     
  13. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    you need to jump the fuel relay rather than the pump direct, so as well as the pump all the other circuits which the relay power also get 12v. the fuel relay powers the maf, injectors, lambda heaters, various engine solenoids etc so just jumping the pump wont get you anywhere

    if you swap a 100 relay into the fuel relay socket this will power all of the above with ignition so thats your next step. either that or use a loop of wire between the 2 large fuel relay sockets
     
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  14. Noracle New Member

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    ive done this First Yesterday, i took a Wire between the 2 Large Sockets, Cycled to Ignition but heared nothing from the Pump.
    I have 2 Relais in the Box in the Engine Bay, the one is like the in the Picture on Post 27, that one i took of and Bridged a Wire in the Sockets and Close to it another one. Maybe i Bridged the false one?
     
  15. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    the fuel relay is under the dash in the relay box, 409 usually but may be a 67/80/167. the 428 relay in box in engine bay is for ecu and coils, the 100 relay is for SAI pump
     
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  16. Noracle New Member

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    Okay, than i bridged the false one, i i bridged in my tests the Socket in the Engine Bay where the 428 Relais Sits.
    I gonna look later under the Dash and try to bridge this one.
    If this works i need to change the Relais to another one? Because with the AGU Harness i had no Problems.
     
  17. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    it gives you a clue that either the relay has packed in or theres an issue with the ecu signal wire to trigger the relay
     
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