Hello everybody, I‘m about to build a 16v daily driver. I’ve a Kr complete running engine, abf motor that needs rebore and new pistons but it has a good head and finally 9a pistons and conrods. so what would you do? Option 1: kr motor standard maybe with complete 051103373D abf head? Option 2: stroker kr with 9a pistons and conrods and 051103373D head? Option 3: rebore the abf and put oversized pistons Option 4: standard kr and try to optimize the Wur valve and ignition. my goal is a daily driver with a very good low end torque, something nice to ride and with a decent fuel consumption. I would like to keep the k-jetronic as I like how it works. I’m no looking for high rpm horsepower.. Thank you guys, any advice would be welcome.
It depends on your budget, you might find pistons for a rebored ABF scarce and/or expensive! I'd go for the ABF if you can go for it.
If taking that route I was thinking about first oversize mahle standard piston, i don’t think anything forged makes any sense for me. Would it be better than RE2000 replica setup? Kr with 9a pistons and abf crank?
I've no experience of the RE, but the longer rods of the ABF would give a better torque spread I would say.
Well if I keep the k-jetronic, ignition from kr,… what would be the best setup in your opinion? All from abf and use some adapters for the mechanical injectors on the abf intake manifolds? Is it kr intake manifold any good for low middle rpm torque? Has anybody ever tried to combine short block from kr with late abf head and intake manifold all managed by k-jetronic? Somehow i think kr 1.8 block is not a bad dessign. Just the head, intake and exhaust manifold that was not very efficient. Sorry to be so persistent with all my question is just that I want to pay for something that works and not expend money on crazy ideas..
Tbh, if it's a keeper, and you're willing to invest, I'd junk the kjet and fit a standalone ecu, to properly control the fuel and spark.
I use to run an Emerald k6 with wasted spark but the time you have to invest into getting everything working smoothly was getting me crazy… i have a dyno plot of how was working I will post it tonight. Plan C could be also a Tfsi 2.0 engine from a golf V that I was planning to install which was almost ready to be installed but here the legislation is getting hard with modified old cars, so this is why I was thinking about coming back to k-jetronic and the 16v . Right now I’m all ears I can go any direction…my main concern is what would be allowed in the future and what I can build as a keeper..
As promised dyno results of the Abf with emerald k6, wasted spark and kr cast exhaust manifold+ abf downpipe and cat.
That looks like a great torque spread, if you got fast road cams it'd be a storming engine in a mk2. A properly set up Emerald, or similar, should be more reliable than kjet!
The FSI is a great engine with 200Nm TQ but it not the most straightforward engine to drop into an older car ... with D.I and to convert it to Port injected... Its certainly not the cheapest option and depending legislation....Where are you based ? Option 3 : Rebuild the ABF... is what need the least effort ... as all the parts are already there ... just rebore with oversize pistons and aftermarket ecu or Mimic a 9A bloc based on the KR bloc... ( with 92.8 mm crank) For a 95.5 mm diesel crank its better to fit into a tall bloc as ABF or 2E with the possibility to get some extra C.R and more TQ in a low bloc it can be done altough its stretching limits...
if I want to go abf stroker way, I think hotgolf did something like that? Which crank should I use and which conrods and pistons? 9a maybe?
Diesel crank from 1Z or AAZ - TDI engine ( 058 type bloc ) as the stroke is 2.7 mm more than ABF, this means the piston will be 1.35 mm more above deck + ca 0,6 mm ..... that make it about 2.0 mm , so way to high ....but this allow to get a domed piston with some machining to the pistons and also mill the valve pockets a bit deeper... this can raise C.R to about 12/1... and use ABF rods OR You can use 9A pistons who have a ca 1.4 mm lower compression height compared to ABF ... so the piston is now at about the same height above deck as on ABF but as cyl - volume go up from 496 cc to 510 cc, compression ratio will go up from ca 10.5 on ABF to ca 10.77 for stroker ABF As the 9A piston has a 20 mm gudgeon pin this need ABF rods with new bushings for 20 mm...
I think I would try to build the Re2000 replica type, i can not find 9a oem new pistons, the only thing I can find are Wossner pistons but they are 12.7 cr maybe to much for regular 95 unleaded, what can I do? Kobelschmidt seems to be the oem supplier
https://techtonicstuning.com/main/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=2_11_5_223_1228 Few other piston options
Thank you! Looks like wossner is the most common option… has anybody try using 2.0 tfsi ea113 pistons? Axx is 10.5 cr and bwa 9.5 from what I see combustion chamber is 46cc so same as the 9a… i think oem AXX pistons should be compatible with 9a block…
I remember seeing someone using fsi pistons. This post shows them https://www.vwvortex.com/threads/9a-16v-going-na-with-2-0t-fsi-pistons.6011882/
