16v KR 9a ignition timing issues

Good its a KR at least there is something right. The dizzy is a genuine VW/Audi Bosch unit. I can only see one set of holes in the head. The static ignition timing is ok so it all seems to line up, its just the advance thats not happening.

 

Just reading up on this a bit more, should this setup have a knock sensor? There appears to be a place for one to bolt to the block (right hand side just below where the engine number is) and if it should where does this then connect to? On the ECU there is a blanked off connection for what looks like a small vacuum pipe, should this be connected to anything? Finally where is the best diagram of this setup to help me understand a bit better and stop asking questions?

Thanks for all the help so far.

 

I'm sure the KR ecu should have a Manifold Absolute Pressue pipe attached?. This allows it to see engine load and adjust the timing to suite.

 

No knock senssor on a KR

 

Thanks for the reply’s, good to know I am not missing the knock sensor. I have cleaned all the connections throughout the ECU/engine bay loom and it seems to run better. I have also got my own timing light and once warm I can see the timing mark on the cambelt cover moving anti clockwise away from the arrow when revs increase and the opposite - clockwise with the 'V' and arrow on the flywheel so it seems the ignition advance is working as it should, unless anyone tells me otherwise.


The car is still not running right - I have had someone look at the carbs and balance them, but its still missing and removing the HT lead from cylinders 1&2 the engine does not die like it does with 3&4 so another problem there. I did a compression test and it was 60 60 75 70 PSI across cylinder 1-4 (I have to admit I did not open the throttle fully when doing this as I think they should be much higher but are within 20%??) one comment was the value may not be seating properly from where the engine has stood for so long - but it’s certainly lumpy on startup and up until 2500-3000 rpm, so any ideas on that would be appreciated before I start taking the head off. The other thing is I am not sure if the carbs need a refurb, but wanted to tackle one issue at a time.


I did manage to get it for an MOT it failed mainly on non-engine related issues with the exception it would not run/idle for the emissions test. I will put this on the other thread.

 

Maybe test compression again, those numbers are terrible.

I'd be expecting 150psi to 170psi region or there abouts.

Could be cam timing out if compression is genuinely that low.

Leakdown test next after verifying cam timing (leak down testers aren't too expensive).

 

Thanks will redo compression test.

On the cam timing is there an article on how to check this - is it around checking the dots on the 2 cams where the chain links them? I have checked the static ignition timing (rotor arm to plug 1 HT lead, Canshaft pully mark lining up with arrow on head and crankshaft pully lining up with arrow on plastic cam belt cover) and all look spot on.

 

All looks spot on from a cam timing perspective, chain looks new and feels tight, will recheck compression.

 

Check what advance swing you get after 3000rpm.
Me, being me and old school I like a weight flying out with rpm, obviously as crude as an axe against a tree. LOL
No advance, no power, imho
Jon

 

The advance swing looking at the timing marks movement seems pretty strong - unless there is another way to measure advance?

 

Ok rechecked compression (throttle open) and more inline with what is expected 195 190 205 190 PSI across the 4 cyliners - so this seems stong and within cylinder to cylinder tolerance?

What is still odd is when engine is running HT leads for 1&2 if pulled off make little difference to engine running - 3&4 as expected its really lumpy and almost dies. I have checked and there is spark and you can see fuel on the plug.

As mentioned is leakdown test next?

 

@pstarkey What carbs are you using?.

I'd be tempted just to check the rotor is in the correct position first for cylinder 1 and 2 ignition leads (at top dead firing stroke).

Next, when the car is running give cylinders 1 and 2 a quick squirt of brake cleaner, if the cylinders fire up then you have either a pilot circuit fault or wrong fuel level in the carbs.

We're the carbs stripped and cleaned before use, and float heights checked?.

 

Thanks for the suggestions.

The carbs are Dellorto DHLA45s. I was told they were cleaned prior to me buying the car (it had stood for years) and I have had someone check them over and balance them, I am not sure this went as far as checking the floats etc, getting them serviced is on the list, but I am not yet convinced they are the main issue as the plugs are wet with fuel - but happy to be proven wrong.


I checked the rotor for cylinder 1 as part of the static timing check (all marks lined up) and pointing to cylinder 1 HT lead, will do the same for cylinder 2 with it at TDC. Looking at the plugs they are wet, so I am pretty sure there is fuel getting through to the bore, but will do the brake cleaner check. What do you mean by pilot circuit? It’s odd as there is spark, there is compression and there is fuel - but the cylinders don't seem to be doing anything. When the car first starts it seems to run ok, but when it warms up a bit the initial pick up is not good when revving it and as I said it’s just odd that pulling the HT lead for cylinders 1&2 seems to have no bearing on how the engine is running.

 

Thanks John

I tried that, put the old plugs and leads back on it - I had replaced them with new as part of recommissioning - although they were probably ok and plugs looks pretty new. Will give it another go as I have cleaned up a few other connections since then.

Ideally I don't want to get on the slippery slope of fitting new parts to see if they make a difference would rather find out what is wrong and sort it...

 

Yea they seem quite 'baggy' go will give it a go. Thank you.