’91 16v - Cold start problems

Hi All,

Hope someone can shed some light on this problem.

My standard Mk2 16v has recently developed a fault which seems to be getting worse. When starting from cold the car will initially shudder and cut out, alternator lights flash and idle drops. It takes two or three starts to get it running, then it idles rough and misfires for about 30 secs while it warms up. During this time if you try to rev the engine it dies and cuts out.

After this period it runs fine, really well actually. It will start again no problem then but if it's left for over a few hours the problem re-occurs.

This fault was already there but it now much worse since I went to Stealth and had the WUR modified and the car tuned - will this have affected it?

I've checked all the wiring and everything looks to be in place, cold start valve, ISV etc.

I really need to sort it out before it gets any worse, don't want to get caught out with a non-starting car!

Any ideas much appreciated!

 

i had this with mine and it has been discuseed before...im never found out!

 

Oh dear!

Does your car still do it then?

 

Worth asking Vince,Stu - obviously a cold start enrichment (or lack of) problem.

Could be metering head related, warm up reg could be faulty?, numerous things it 'could' be.

 

Will drop him an email about it, thought it must be something to do with cold starts only as it runs fine the rest of the time. Vince never got to cold start it at Stealth the other day, only hot ones!

 

i don't have my car anymore Stu, it was written off

 

That's no solution to a cold start problem!

Sorry to hear that matey. [:^(]

 

yeah bummer, it does still live, with paul16vgti who is currently fixing it all up i believe! may get it back you never know!

Rich

 

If it clears after 30 seconds I would doubt it's the WUR. Try starting it with the cold start valve disconnected. If this works, leave it off as your engine doesn't need it in UK temperatures. Check for dripping injectors as well.

Check the plugs, leads, cap, rotor arm and coil connections.

If all this fails you need to check the WUR for which you need a fuel pressure gauge.

 

Cheers for the info - will give that a try and let you know how I get on, thanks very much.

 

I tried starting the car from cold with the blue electrical connection to the cold start valve disconnected this morning. It did make a bit of difference in that the misfire possibly cleared a bit quicker but the same problem still occured really although the car didn't actually cut out, just shuddered for a bit until it levelled off.

Does this mean the CSV isn't actually doing it's job then since it works slightly better without?