Nipping into the dealers later to order up my final bearings I require. Upon checking VAGCAT/ETKA there are bearings 02A 311 115 E which it says 2 of are required. However I seem to recall when looking a Pashats 02A rebuild on VW Vortex he replaced a single needle cage with a pair of needle rolllers so my question is do I need 2 of these bearings or 4?
Sweet. Cheers AJ. Well I got my diff bearings off today and managed to break the speedo ring in the process... Doh, that will be another 8 then [:^(] Took ages setting up the bearing splitter under 4th gear to make sure it was evenly supporting 4th on the input shaft and winding just a wee bit at a time and then heard an almighty crack.... It was 4th and the bearing giving way... phew! Thought I had toasted 4th for a second. So got the bearings of the input shaft no bother then discovered my bearing splitter is about 10mm shorter in reach than it needs to be to strip the output shaft Hopefully the other puller that's being delivered soon will fit.
Be carefull not to pull on 4th gear synchro hub. there are little tiny points on the synchro teeth. If they come off 4th is mullered!
Cheers AJ Well this is where I'm kinda at present: Got my second puller in the mail today. Many thanks Yeha as I wouldn't have been able to do this without it: All bearings stripped from the shafts which was easier than expected; although I did take my time pulling from under 2nd as didn't want to damage anything. I have to admit the last race on the input shaft took a bit of ingenuity given my pullers wern't quite long enough. Rest of the crap sitting minus diff, crownwheel and still waiting for my ARP bolts : What am I doing to do with the case? Powdercoat prep seems long and ardouos... Quick question or perhaps two: Do I need to replace the wire springs that hold the 'dogs' (2 sets of three locking teeth inside the synchros) in place and synchros (will be checked when nice and clean) and circlip aside is there anything else I should be replacing as a matter of course? Edit: I knew there was something I forgot - Checked the price for the AMV sealant and nearly fell over in shock. What do I use to seal the case halves and hold the magnet in place?
Without question, you have posted the best pics of trans work I can recall seeing as far as proper technique Old dirty parts placed neatly on plastic lids or something, in order as they were removed it looks like, everything kept together it seems with each other... did you take care of noting which way the bearing came off (which side faced the gear or end of the shaft), possibly using the stamped bearing info on one side as a marker to know how it goes back on?!? And just look at those cleaned and or new parts.... cleaned so well, it is hard to tell... well done! Top rate job on the casing.... that's rebuild clean Everything sorted and laid out so you can see what it going on, everything on towels no less! With care like that through the entire process, I have no doubt your rebuild will go well. It might be a slight PITA, but the time to do it is now if you are going to. It is nearly 100% stripped, there isn't much to go, it looks like a bearing, the speedo, some other small things, and it would be ready to be masked or prepped for powdercoat (I've never done it, so I don't know what's needed). It actually looks pretty good as is, from what I can see. You could get away with doing nothing, but going that extra step will make it look nicer than it is, be it powdercoat, or media blasting.... but it doesn't look BAD now, so you have more options. You don't NEED to, but replacing the springs and the keys or dogs will make for a bit more crisp and positive shift, and they're cheap for the most part. The springs are the resistance that the operating sleeve that slides to engage a gear will face when you shift. That force is then sent into the brass sync ring, which gets shoved into the gear face to match speeds. If the spring is very strong... the force you need to apply in the car to move the forks to slide the operating sleeve to get it to pop over the keys which means compressing the springs will be greater... that force will be sent into the keys which push into the sync ring, which mates with more friction into the gear face, which means a faster time to match speeds. If the spring is fresh and new, it helps a litte. Same with the keys. They get a slight bit of wear on them, usually just a shiny spot, but older ones will have a slight groove in them. Replacing with new makes them not as easy to slide over and compress inwards... this means they get more force sent into them to send into the brass sync ring again... helping shifts go quicker and feel more positive.... it "pops" into gear and feels more secure. Not a lot... don't expect it to feel totally different, just fresh. Have you ever driven a high-mileage MK1 where it doesn't really feel like it "clicks" into gear anymore... like it just slips in and feels like it could slip right out again? Replacing the keys and springs will help that. Most of the click and location of the selector is either internal to the selector, or via spring loaded detent bolts right on top of the selector, but some of that feeling comes from the keys and springs on the sync hubs. Some parts are one time use or limited use, like the 4 studs for the bearing plate for the output shaft, which means a new plate and bearing race I think, if it comes from VW. The bolts torque spec is something like 18 ft-lbs plus 1/4 turn, and the 1/4 turn means that bolt is a stretch bolt. It can be used more than once -- it has to be, the preload procedure requires the studs be used twice just for the preload, so they're not ONE time use, but limited use. One time use parts, looking through the papers, seems to be any circlips and o-rings, and then a few of the smaller bolts... the reverse shaft support torx bolts, the bolt for the guide sleeve in the bellhousing, and there may be others I didn't spot. You can find transmission sealant at parts stores, it might not say transmission on it, but gasket maker for gearboxes or something, or shop around for another car mfg. to see what they use, and if they have any in stock. What seals a Ford transaxle will easily seal a VW box, or a Rover box, or a Mazda box, or what have you. The VW stuff is good though, I like it... but it isn't cheap. I just bought another new fresh tube. The old tube, which was several years old, was mostly gone, there was enough left in there for about 10 rebuilds or more, and I sold the used tube for $20, because it is $40-$50 for a full tube, and unless you plan on building a LOT of trans, you won't even start to use all of it. Hmmm. I should sell it in small amounts! Enough for a couple rebuilds in $10 syringes or something For the magnet, I use regular old RTV silicone, just a dab to hold it in place, it can't escape when the case is together, at least on the 020.
You would be pleased with pictures of my gear stacks post clean: I have a Passat Bentley 02A rebuild for reference which has proved 100% invaluable and I wouldn't have tackled a rebuild otherwise. With regards to the keys/springs - The exisiting ones are polished on the load points but nothing major but if they are inexpensive I'll order up new sets this afternoon. I found this box in the scrapyard so, on purchase, it was an unknown quantity. It's an AYH (short ratio with a 3.94FD ) stack going being rebuilt into a MK3 16V CDA casing- I had checked it shifted gear etc and all seemed well but it's been sat in the back of a closet for about a year so it should hopefully go well once built. I had to do a bit of homework to ensure I orded the correct parts but that was pretty straighforward - I've had some help along the way too so many thanks to all that have helped out so far I'm concerned that the output shaft bearing plate is a one time use - I hadn't budgeted for replacing that part and they are pretty expensive here. Can I ask an opinion on the pics below? They are of the 2nd gear inner synch ring: All my synchros show very little wear and are miles whithin the wear limits. I can't however seem to measure the wear on this ring (Can't get a the respective feeler gauge in) but from inspection it looks okay but, again, that's an inexperienced opinion: Area of concern (inside): Outside:
Very much so I honestly wouldn't worry about it, if it were me. The manual doesn't point out it is one time use, but as a general rule, any fastener with "plus 1/4 turn" or something like that is a stretch type, and those are usually limited use, or one time use. As per the preload procedure from VW, they have you tightening them twice, so they can't be ONE time use, just limited use. If you were rebuilding the box every race season, you'd want to budget one in every few years or something. They look nice and sharp on the edges to me, they look to be in pretty good shape. You can't fit a feeler between the gear and the outer sync ring at all? I don't do any 02A work, or very little, but that doesn't sound right... spec is 1.2mm-1.8mm for new rings on a new gear, with a wear limit of 0.5mm, so you should be able to at least get a 0.5mm to fit in there. I would be concerned with that. What is the spec with just the inner cone on the gear (like in your 2nd pic)? it should be at least 0.3mm, with new being 0.75mm to 1.25mm. With all 3 pieces in place, there should be 0.5mm at least. Brian
Too much at the moment - I'm sitting about 220 just in parts alone so far and more to come. Basically I'm replacing every bearing, O-rings, synchro spings and catches, ARP diff bolt kit.... It all adds up but at the hassle of stripping the box and refitting I'm not skimping on it! [:^(] I may just do as much as I can and then sit it 'on the shelf' until I can afford an ATB diff 'cause it will only end up being pulled as soon as I have the cash for a diff. Broke: That's good regarding the bearing plate as I now have all the parts I need to reassemble the gear stacks, well apart from the springs and catches - Literally a couple of from the dealers so I pick those up on Saturday morn. For some reason I can't get into measure the gap between the 2nd gear teeth and the inner synchro ring- There is a gap all round whick 'looks' at least 1mm but its below the synchro teeth shoulder on 2nd gear so I can't fit a gauge in: The rest of the 2nd gear parts are well within spec though.
There are several threads on the subject - the search should provide some results. Edit: You will find all you need through digging through the links on this thread; http://www.clubgti.com/forum/showthread.php?t=115595&highlight=russian+vw EDIT UPDATED: For Amit: http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2907820&page=1 Use the above with a Bentley and you'll not go far wrong; just don't pick up the guys lack of cleaning habits
Well here's the latest; one rebuild input shaft and one rebuilt output shaft: Thankfully no problems on install although I have to say that the heating the needle races on a hotplate prior to quickly fitting them makes the job so much easier. Input: Output: So in theory I am just a set of diff bolts, shimming up and case preb away from completion... Found an inexpensive beam torque wrench for measuring moment BIG EDIT: Yipee I found a 3 jaw internal puller on US 'bay for buttons (the postage was more expensive than the puller) that I can modify to remove the ouput shaft bellhousing race, reverse gear bellhousing race and hopefully the starter bush - basically the same one that Pashat uses in his 02A build on VWVortex so I am relieved so, hurry up Mr Postie! One cleaned and split diff: Do I resuse these or cannibalise my spare early 02A diff, check out the pitting - perhaps been there since day dot? And can I shim these with 2mm washers between the spring and cup to emulate a Peloquin 40% kit: So here's a pic of the case, not as good condition as it looks in earlier photos: How do I clean it up - Brass brush and wonder wheels or Scotchbrite ect prior to whatever I plan to coat it with? Any ideas folks?
Nice post, my box is in bits and i need to get on with it, ill be watching this post as a mate has let me down with rebuild!! i just wire brushed my box with a drill, jet washed it and painted it with silver hammerite. first pic. 2nd pic is my 020 that i done around 8yrs ago, looks crap in the pic but its been sat in the garage for 2yrs,a jet wash brings it up like new! Then theres the internals for my 02a that have to be fitted into the fresh casing.
Don't hold your breath; I'm still waiting on my ARP diff bolts! Thanks for the comments- Wish I had done a step-by-step how-to but didn't really fancy getting parrafin anywhere near my camera. How did you coat the 020? Silver Hammerite too? Surely it's prone to chipping/flaking?
Yea the 020 was done just by using gunk, a hard sweeping brush and a jet wash (no wire brushing). Was done in the dark too, was a rush job to get it in the car and i was bully'ed into doing it lol, i was shocked at how well it lasted. It was spray on hammerite, no primer or anything. Ive since used acid8 etch primer and simons engine enamel but after a month or so it was cracking. Thats even before it got anywhere near the car!!
STILL waiting on my ARP diff bolts... Had to open a Paypal claim as the sellers are takin the p1ss - Bougth them on the 27th Feb! Everything else is together - just have to prep the case and then shim it all up... Ho-hum... Still a little worried re my diff gears but at the price of a new set it would be better to sitck the money towards an ATB. Must be the longest gearbox build in history
These badboys finally arrived today courtesy of Integrated Engineering who I have to mention were not the people whom I initially purchased a set from; my Paypal claim was honoured so for the second purchase I went to Integrated Engineering who sorted me out; so a big thanks to them. So in short my rebuild has been 'gathering dust' since 28th February. I now have a couple of more queries with regard to fitting the ARPs/crownwheel/diff together: Press two studs into the diff diametrically opposed. Heat the crownwheel and drop on to the studs. Press in the remainder of the studs Here's where I get confused: The ARP bolts are not serrated on the clamping face so how do I secure them so my diff doesn't go bang x miles down the road? Loctite 270 has been recommended to secure the nuts but do I need to use the supplied assembly lubricant at all - If so I can't see how. Do I need to use something else to secure them? Someone mentioned lock washers/tabbed washers or similar. I'm also at a loss with the torquing sequence and values - Not in terms of order of bolts but in terms of do I wind them up, back down and then up etc?
Not that it matters, but I usually just press in all 8 and then drop the heated ring gear on. Let everything cool, then torque it up. I just got my first ARP bolt kit in here with an Autotech wavetrac LSD... I'd check that bolt kit to see if the nuts have serrations under them or not, but I sent the bolt kit and LSD back to Autotech, as there is a problem. At any rate, there are no lock washer plates under the nuts on this 020 install, the ARP kit specifically said not to use them, and the install torque dropped from 52 ft-lbs (for the VW bolt kit) to 40 ft-lbs when using the special ARP assembly lube, on the 020 kit. If they insist on the assembly lube on the threads (not for install, it is just a thread lubricant), adding loctite would change the lubrication properties and change the measured torque during install, or it could not cure or something and never do you any good anyway. The 020 kit I installed, or tried to install, specifically mentioned no washers were to be used. I'd check the little instruction sheet that comes with the kit to be sure though. You can tighten them to install torque, loosen, and go around again... it won't hurt anything, but usually the bolts are either in as much as they are going to go, or there is a problem with the install. If you're tapping them in with a mallet, you might want to be sure to use the nut to pull them in fully, but if you are pressing them in with a hydraulic shop press, they should press in fully without a problem. Be sure to check under the heads after pressing the first couple in. I oil the splines on the bolt and the holes in the diff, but on the install of this ARP into the LSD, the splines on the bolts simply shaved off while pressing them in. The shaved tops of the splines gathered in tiny steel pieces under the heads, and prevented them from seating. I'm waiting to hear from Autotech about whether it is a LSD issue, or a bolt kit issue.... Tiny pieces of bolt splines in a fresh rebuild is not ideal Oh, the pitting on the diff spider gears is indeed wear and damage, they're not there from the factory, eventually that pitting will get worse, but they're not super bad right now. Brian
