I just replaced the evap canister/vapor trap thingy on the front of the engine hoping it would fix this but it made no difference, so I'm here again to ask the experts! The car starts beautifully from cold, half a turn and it's running, but if I leave it for 10-15 mins once it's hot and try to restart it, it takes a good few seconds of cranking before it'll start. I've replaced all the vac hoses, the warm air flap works great, been through the bulk of the 2E carb troubleshooting, adjusted the throttle cable, changed all the fuel hoses, filter, temp sensors etc etc..... Does anyone know what else I should look at?
does the 3/4 point unit poke out fully when the engine is off? it should hold the revs 1.5-2k for a few seconds once started depending on how warm the car/world is. to check if its fuel related have the airbox off and spray a bit of easy start in the top see if it fires up right away
it starts more quickly in this situation if i give it a bit of throttle, but I'll try some easy start, good idea... I haven't measured, but the 3/4 unit was definitely poking out further before i started the engine, then less once it was running. It does take a good few minutes for the revs to drop down from ~1600 on a cold start
have a look at that side of things, mine would never stay revved all that long, maybe half a minute to a minute max. maybe the electric gubbins round the back have lost their ignition feed so taking a bit too long to warm up (wont affect warm start I expect)
It looks to me like the hedgehog has been replaced, the wiring looks new, I'll stick an ammeter across it and make sure it's pulling power... edit: wire to the preheater is showing 0v with ignition off/keys out, 12v with ignition on, and strangely, 7.5v with the key in but the ignition off.... i'll investigate more later edit2: I've also changed the inlet manifold O-ring (wasn't totally in bits) but the autochoke doesn't get hot to the touch as quickly as the FAQ indicates it should...
manifold pre-heater probably wont cause this issue, its more for after the car has started. bit of an odd symptom on the pre-heater showing 7.5 with key in, the only thing which should have power is the brown/red key-in-ignition pin which is only wired on runout spec for the radio. maybe this wire has been shorted to a live feed somewhere... with the autochoke it should get warm as quickly as the coolant hose on the side of the head if that makes sense since its getting coolant from the head to warm it up. theres an electric heater inside as well but that woudlnt make too much difference I dont think... worth a look though I guess. its fed from the grey thermoswitch, it should see 12v cold then nothing when warmed up. the heater coil inside can die as well
TTV and autochoke are seeing 12v with the ignition on and engine (mostly) cold Here's a video of that start, the car had been driven a couple of hours before so it wasn't totally cold sadly going to check autochoke and heater resistance to battery negative now edit: autochoke and heater resistance is normal, I'm guessing the slow drop to idle is probably down to a tired wax stat but they're a bit expensive!
possibly yeah, if you drop it in a pot of boiling water apparently it resets them somehow though not sure how true that is. maybe if the coolant channel was blocked it may help loosen em up a bit if they've not got properly hot for a while but in a tip top one with good flow its going to get just as hot I guess.
I did put it in boiling water at some point and it extended, but i'm guessing it just doesn't have the force it did 30 years ago.... Doesn't seem like it would affect the hot start thought, it feels like the fuel in the carb is evaporating away while it's sat with a hot engine... but if that were the case, surely it'd be hard to start from cold as well, it's not going to fill back up while the engine is off. God knows! It runs well, I should probably just ignore it Thanks for your help as always
