1.8t aum fault codes - where to start

Discussion in 'Corrado' started by Dr_Evil, Feb 2, 2020.

  1. Dr_Evil New Member

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    Hi

    I have purchased a Corrado with a 20vt aum engine, it was running okay, but then developed running issues, I have a few faults showing on the VCDS log. I'm not sure where to start first. Any help would be appreciated,

    Sunday,02,February,2020,17:24:41:00007
    VCDS -- Windows Based VAG/VAS Emulator Running on Windows 10 x64
    VCDS Version: 18.9.0.2
    Data version: 20180927 DS296.0
    www.Ross-Tech.com


    VIN: License Plate: M519RKK



    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------


    Chassis Type: 1J - VW Golf/Bora IV (1998 > 2006)
    Scan: 01 02 03 08 15 16 17 19 22 29 35 36 37 39 46 47 55 56 57 75
    76

    -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Address 01: Engine Labels: 06A-906-032-AUM.lbl
    Part No: 06A 906 032 DR
    Component: 1.8L R4/5VT *0002
    Coding: 11500
    Shop #: WSC 00038
    VCID: 71E963C53BA91DC22A-5178

    14 Faults Found:
    17931 - Crash Signal from Airbag Controller
    P1523 - 35-00 - Implausible Signal
    18058 - Powertrain Data Bus
    P1650 - 35-00 - Missing Message from Instrument Cluster
    18057 - Powertrain Data Bus
    P1649 - 35-00 - Missing Message from ABS Controller
    17834 - EVAP Purge Valve (N80)
    P1426 - 35-00 - Open Circuit
    17841 - Secondary Air Pump Relay (J299)
    P1433 - 35-00 - Open Circuit
    17840 - Secondary Air Injection Solenoid Valve (N112)
    P1432 - 35-00 - Open Circuit
    17695 - Boost Pressure Control Valve (N249)
    P1287 - 35-00 - Open Circuit
    16486 - Mass Air Flow Sensor (G70)
    P0102 - 35-10 - Signal too Low - Intermittent
    17705 - Pressure Drop between Turbo and Throttle Valve (check D.V.!)
    P1297 - 35-00 -
    17608 - Boost Pressure Control Valve (N249)
    P1200 - 35-00 - Mechanical Malfunction
    16502 - Engine Coolant Temp. Sensor (G62)
    P0118 - 35-10 - Signal too High - Intermittent
    17763 - Cylinder 1 Ignition Circuit
    P1355 - 35-10 - Open Circuit - Intermittent
    17766 - Cylinder 2 Ignition Circuit
    P1358 - 35-10 - Open Circuit - Intermittent
    17956 - Boost Pressure Regulation Valve (N75)
    P1548 - 35-10 - Open Circuit - Intermittent
    Readiness: 0000 0000

    End-------------------------(Elapsed Time: 05:36)--------------------------
     
  2. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    first clear off the codes to see what comes back, some may be old. if you open vagcom, click the top left button 'select control module' then click top left again '01-Engine'. once its found the ECU click fault codes to see whats currently stored, here you can clear the codes off. Take it for a good run, come back and check again. In the ECU screen you can also check 'measuring blocks' which allows you to scan through all the ECU sensors in real time. So for example if the coolant sensor code comes back you can check what the ecu sees for coolant temp.

    Anyway these are to be expected on a 20v conversion, a proper ECU specialist can switch them all off in code such as Toyotec on here, Chris Bellman on facebook plus others:
    17931 - Crash Signal from Airbag Controller
    18058 - Powertrain Data Bus
    18057 - Powertrain Data Bus
    17834 - EVAP Purge Valve (N80)
    17841 - Secondary Air Pump Relay (J299)
    17840 - Secondary Air Injection Solenoid Valve (N112)

    this one could be down to the 249 valve being deleted, personally I would leave it on. others remove and replace with a resistor, you may be able to defeat it in ecu code also:
    17695 - Boost Pressure Control Valve (N249)
    17608 - Boost Pressure Control Valve (N249)

    These would likely cause a missfire, if its running ok then probably old codes which will stay gone when cleared:
    17763 - Cylinder 1 Ignition Circuit
    17766 - Cylinder 2 Ignition Circuit

    just leaves these, which may or may not be current faults so see which if any come back:
    17956 - Boost Pressure Regulation Valve (N75)
    16486 - Mass Air Flow Sensor (G70)
    17705 - Pressure Drop between Turbo and Throttle Valve (check D.V.!)
    16502 - Engine Coolant Temp. Sensor (G62)
     
  3. Dr_Evil New Member

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    Hi Jonny

    Thanks for the information, I will clear the codes and take it for a run, the car is not running right, idle is lumpy and when you drive you need to feather the throttle or it just bogs down, I've tried changing the diverter valve but no difference, also yesterday when up to temperature I pulled the plug from the temp sensor and it made no difference to the idle. I also unplugged the coil packs on each plug, only plug one made no difference. I then swapped one and two around but it made no difference, one still seemed unresponsive. I will see if I have some others to try, to eliminate bad ones or back wiring to them maybe.

    I'll let you know how I get on cheers
     
  4. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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  5. Toyotec

    Toyotec CGTI Committee - Happy helper at large Admin

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    The ECU and/or whoever did the loom for it, needs looking at.


    Lots of the faults are because the calibration was not prepared for the vehicle,the engine was fitted to.
     
  6. Dr_Evil New Member

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    Hi

    Yes I don't think it's been done right,can you recommend anyone to look at the ECU , also a plug and play loom ?

    Cheers
    Alan
     
  7. Toyotec

    Toyotec CGTI Committee - Happy helper at large Admin

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    Depends on where you are.

    Best to send a pm.
     
  8. Dr_Evil New Member

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    Hi

    Changed the temp sensor and spark plugs this morning and it made all the difference, running okay now apart from oil pressure light and buzzer going off when accelerating so gonna change the oils and.filter out , also the temp gauge on the dash is going sky high when the car is not that hot. Do you know what resistors I need or what voltage drop I need to get the gauge working right ? Tomorrow I will check what faults have come back after clearing them today.

    Cheers Alan

    Toyotec not sure how to DM you or if I can yet
     
  9. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    before you change the oil have a look at your oil switch setup. if the loom was made right you should have 2 oil switch wires yellow and blue/black, then you bin the mk4 switch and fit mk1/2/3 0.25/0.3 and 1.8 bar oil switches. if the 1.8 bar switch is left off or wires mixed up then you get the light+buzzer

    for dash temp couple ways to fix it, covered in my guide plus it also goes over the oil switches too:
    https://www.clubgti.com/forums/inde...install-faq-now-with-added-dieselness.267196/
     
  10. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    to private message someone you click the username link to the left of their post, then a new window pops up. click 'start a conversation' and you're away. you might have to get a couple more posts under your belt before you can do this, from memory 10 posts and you get upgraded to standard user :)
     
  11. Dr_Evil New Member

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    Thanks for the fast reply, I'll get a look at my setup tomorrow and work it out cheers, you are a star
     

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