Hey all, sorry for the length of the background info for starters Recently "finished up" my 2001 1.8t (aph or awv) swap into a 1986 cabby and it has driven wonderfully for at least 500 miles until last time out. Before driving I closed the heater coolant valve in the engine bay by hand as the dash sliders are missing and knocked off the vacuum line to my forge bov/dv (didnt notice at the time, saw that the line was off when I broke down). Drove on the highway perfectly fine until 15 miles in, when the car suddently started shuddering and bogging down like crazy at 70mph. Quickly realized that the car only wouldnt bog if I gave it barely any throttle (1-5% pedal), any more and the revs would plummet. Pulled over and found that the engine would idle for 3 seconds and then immediately die every time. Only thing I could see that was amiss in the engine bay was the previously mentioned BOV/DV vacuum line disconnected. I was able to limp the car home by barely pressing the gas pedal; it made barely any boost (1-3psi max) and was very temperamental I'm guessing that the lack of a BOV caused a pressure spike that burst a pipe/seal, but this is my first turbocharged car so I don't have any idea where that might be or how to test or if that's even the issue. Took a good look today and didn't see any IC pipe leaks or anything obvious and I'm stumped. any ideas? Thanks!!
get vagcom plugged in and scan it for codes to start with did you check over the coilpack wiring as part of the wiring conversion often the DBW ones split the insulation and short out
Will do, I have a VCDS in the mail so I checked with a normal code reader and only had "P0321 - Ignition Input Speed Input Circuit Range/Performance". I saw on ross tech that this code can come up with repeated start/stop of the engine and the symptoms didnt seem to match up so I didn't think that was it. As far as the coil wiring I did not check so I'll take a look. thanks a ton!
I was able to limp the car home by keeping within that 1-5% accelerator pedal range, would that be possible with a bad crank sensor? Maybe I incorrectly assumed that a faulty sensor would make it impossible to keep the engine going at all
Ah probably not crank sensor if you managed to keep it going that way, I thought you meant now it will no longer run on the driveway
