16V Syncro manifold building

Discussion in 'Engines' started by Trev16v, May 23, 2011.

  1. aid

    aid Forum Member

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    Yeah thats another option. However I originally bought a rocco 16v manifold to get a rocco 16v downpipe for and save some money over an off the shelf 4 branch. Then I discovered a downpipe was going to cost more by itself. Neither of my mild steel ones are fit to weld. Bought a new rocco 8v downpipe to last a few weeks until the conversion but it cost me more than the parts for a stainless one will, aside from the flange. So I'm going to copy it but with the 16v flange and 15mm longer for the tall block. Then sell it.

    As for the flange ive got a hold of flat bar and im going to have a mate machine it for me at his work.
    An off the shelf will be less time consuming and probably cheaper if I count my time as worth what I could earn if I fabbed some tanks instead but its more of a project if anything.
     
    Last edited: Mar 21, 2013
  2. Nige

    Nige Paid Member Paid Member

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    I hadn`t seen this before.

    Liking the manifold and the way you approached it.

    Why stainless and not Mild Steel ? It`d have been easier to make in MS wouldn`t it ?
     
  3. Trev16v

    Trev16v Paid Member Paid Member

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    Hmm, I guess I just had it in my head that stainless would be far better for life expectancy. With TIG welding I don't think it's any harder to be honest, and the results are far more pleasing. With TIG I just found that you have to take a short while to get used to the different way in which stainless melts and pools when you're welding.

    The one complication of welding stainless is that you usually need to argon purge the inside of the pipes, which is a hassle I really couldn't be bothered with. So I used the Solar Flux paste which made the job so much easier. Not sure if you'd want to use Solar Flux in a turbo application though, because (as has been discussed about Solar Flux on other forums) you end up with a glassy residue which could flake off inside during use.
     
  4. Nige

    Nige Paid Member Paid Member

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    That`s why I was asking. I know back-purging is recommended for SS, for the average DIY`er, MS with a decent MIG would be easier to fabricate.

    I`m not knocking yours, it looks good, but was just looking at it (and Sambo`s) and wondered why a Mild Steel version couldn`t be done easier and cheaper, I understood MS was better at dealing with the heat cycles you get, especially on a Turbo installation, but people always seem to go for SS.
     
  5. aid

    aid Forum Member

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    trevor, have you got this running yet? just wondering how the stainless stood up to the temeratures a boosted engine pumps through. i've been approached by someone asking me to make a basic turbo manifold, but theyre concerned about the material breaking down at high temps and the welds breaking down.

    i'm not a metallurgist but the concerns were intergranular corrosion and carbide precipitation which i have a basic understanding of. possibly not as much concern for you as your manifold doesnt have to support a turbo though.

    Aid
     
  6. Trev16v

    Trev16v Paid Member Paid Member

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    Not running yet, sorry!

    If it does break, I'll just TIG it again! :lol:
     
  7. superferret420 New Member

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    ....again thanks for the read
     

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